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post #2461 of 3087
Ive combed through the thread and I havent seen anyone mention the tygon E-1000 that PPCS sells. Seeing as my durelene is clouding up over time I was wondering what you guys thought about the E-1000. It says is plasticizer free and while its a little pricey honestly im tired of testing tubing. My durelene looked fine for about a month and slowly lost its shine and clouded up. I think is plasticizer but I wont know for sure until I tear the loop down to move it to the 900D.
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post #2462 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Systemlord View Post

Can you recommend it or is it not proven?
I have only been using it for going on 6 weeks, so far I am happy with it. As for being proven, I believe it was introduced by PrimoChill sometime around 2007. One thing I have learned here at OCN is that sometimes good-great products don't get talked about that much, it's when someone has issues that they get put on blast. After doing a search and not finding any negative reviews or comments about it I decided to give it a shot. Will keep you guys updated, at 2 months I am going to pull apart everything and check my EK Nickel blocks to see how they are holding up.
    
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post #2463 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lareson View Post

I know there's been issues with combining nickle and silver and also wondering if using it in combination with distilled water and a biocide in a way causes some issues. Judi924, you said you had nickle barbs, right? I think that's your issue there. The silver from the kill coil and the nickle barbs are reacting and causing your tubing to look like that. I say take out the kill coil, leave everything else like it is, redo the tubing and check back with us. It just kind of clicked with me when I was reading about the issues with nickle and silver.

I notice that EK and Koolance said avoid putting in a silver kill coil in your loop in combination with nickle blocks due to running the risk of damaging the nickle plating, so wondering if its the same thing, but instead its your fittings.


THIS^^ silver and nickel cause galvanic corrosion wink.gif

BUT-in the past i have used a SKC with nickel plated BP comps and not had problems with the nickel flaking.

I personally do not use SKCs anymore, i use Mayhems coolants that have all the necessary inhibitors/biocides included-they work great.

It all depends on the quality of the nickel plating-a little imperfection/hole the size of a few microns can lead to eventual flaking of the nickel coating.

Hence the problem that EK had with their earlier nickel blocks.

That information was afforded to me by the platers that i sent an EK HF supreme that needed de plating.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1265630/new-ek-blocks/310 (Post 319)

I had even toyed with the idea of silver plating the block (same price as nickel plating), but i opted for good old copper-block is working perfectly-excellent temps (OT redface.gif)

Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

I wonder, how many people are using the Cu-Sulphate PTNuke and how many are using PTNuke-PHN, and what percentage of each have had plasticizer issues??


Also, the Primochill Advanced LRT has been good to me; I really like it, especially the fact that the black from the fittings that rubs off onto the white of the tubing can easily be removed! The tubing IS NOTICEABLY STIFFER THAN the PRO LRT, but it holds bends extremely well.
Also, the stuff seems to be slightly different in terms of tolerance than the Primoflex Pro LRT, as when I went to put the first bit of tubing over a Bitspower Compression Barb, it simply wouldn't go! It took me like 5 minutes to get it on there! This is compared to the Pro LRT which did take some effort but not so much that I was worried about breaking something! I HONESTLY THOUGHT that I had gotten a box with the wrong size marked on it, because it felt like trying to put 7/16x3/4 tubing on a 1/2x3/4 compression!


Anyway, here are a couple pics of the "PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 1/2x3/4 WHITE Tubing" in my rig... I know it isn't finished yet; I am having a B!TCH of a time with the last run of tubing, from the EK Multioption Res X2 top outlet to the XSPC Single Bay Res Inlet, as my fill-port is in-between the two so a nice bend is almost impossible (I have at least a half-dozen cuts of tubing that were off by just a few millimeters or so!)....

Have a pot of boiling water or a kettle next to you, dip the end of the tubing in for a while (till is becomes more pliable) then you can overcome the problems encountered with placing stiff tubing over barbs etc wink.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fyrwulf View Post

Why would anyone put uncoated nickle in their loops? It makes me wonder how many of these so-called plasticizer issues are really due to galvanic corrosion.

No such thing as 'un coated' nickel-nickel is used as a coating itself thumb.gif

Nearly 99% of fittings are brass, coated with nickel etc.
Edited by kkorky - 2/11/13 at 5:26am
post #2464 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by SilkyJohnson View Post

Ive combed through the thread and I havent seen anyone mention the tygon E-1000 that PPCS sells. Seeing as my durelene is clouding up over time I was wondering what you guys thought about the E-1000. It says is plasticizer free and while its a little pricey honestly im tired of testing tubing. My durelene looked fine for about a month and slowly lost its shine and clouded up. I think is plasticizer but I wont know for sure until I tear the loop down to move it to the 900D.

I'm also moving my stuff to 900D :-)

Anyway, I was quite scared of this plasticizer problem when I first did my WC setup and I tried several plasticizer free tubes. (Namely Tygon 2375 and E-1000). 2375 was pretty stiff and hard. I was able to work on them but it was not an easy job to bend them without kinks. E-1000, however, is on the opposite side in terms of durometer. E-1000 has pretty much rubber-like feeling. You can see the warning in PPCS that it may slip out of compression fittings. I didn't have any issue of slipping out and tubes seemed to be well locked by compression rings. (3/8 ID, 5/8 OD)

Overall, I liked E-1000 better than 2375. It is very easy to work on and it is clearer than 2375. 2375 seems to be more solid and provide better chemical resistance though. I gotta see how E-1000 fares in long term though. It's been only a few months since I put them.
post #2465 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whalemeal View Post

I'm also moving my stuff to 900D :-)

Anyway, I was quite scared of this plasticizer problem when I first did my WC setup and I tried several plasticizer free tubes. (Namely Tygon 2375 and E-1000). 2375 was pretty stiff and hard. I was able to work on them but it was not an easy job to bend them without kinks. E-1000, however, is on the opposite side in terms of durometer. E-1000 has pretty much rubber-like feeling. You can see the warning in PPCS that it may slip out of compression fittings. I didn't have any issue of slipping out and tubes seemed to be well locked by compression rings. (3/8 ID, 5/8 OD)

Overall, I liked E-1000 better than 2375. It is very easy to work on and it is clearer than 2375. 2375 seems to be more solid and provide better chemical resistance though. I gotta see how E-1000 fares in long term though. It's been only a few months since I put them.

Nice. Thanks for the response. Suppose I'll go ahead and try it as well. I use bits power compression fittings though so hopefully they grip well enough. A few months is longer than my durelene made it. 3 weeks and it was cloudy .
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post #2466 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkorky View Post

No such thing as 'un coated' nickel-nickel is used as a coating itself thumb.gif

Nearly 99% of fittings are brass, coated with nickel etc.

Coated as in paint or powder. And people need to start refusing to buy any cooling product that allows anything other than copper, brass, or chrome to come into contact with water.
post #2467 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bucshman View Post

I have only been using it for going on 6 weeks, so far I am happy with it. As for being proven, I believe it was introduced by PrimoChill sometime around 2007. One thing I have learned here at OCN is that sometimes good-great products don't get talked about that much, it's when someone has issues that they get put on blast. After doing a search and not finding any negative reviews or comments about it I decided to give it a shot. Will keep you guys updated, at 2 months I am going to pull apart everything and check my EK Nickel blocks to see how they are holding up.


You might find valuable information by just checking the PH level of the distilled water in your loop, this will tell you if you have an acidic (1-5.5 yellow), neutral (6,7, 8 green) and/or alkaline (9-35 purple) chemical reaction! Pool supply store should give you some testing strips for free, dip it in the reservoir and see what colors you get!
post #2468 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkorky View Post

THIS^^ silver and nickel cause galvanic corrosion wink.gif
Nearly 99% of fittings are brass, coated with nickel etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lareson View Post

I know there's been issues with combining nickle and silver and also wondering if using it in combination with distilled water and a biocide in a way causes some issues. Judi924, you said you had nickle barbs, right? I think that's your issue there. The silver from the kill coil and the nickle barbs are reacting and causing your tubing to look like that. I say take out the kill coil, leave everything else like it is, redo the tubing and check back with us. It just kind of clicked with me when I was reading about the issues with nickle and silver.

I notice that EK and Koolance said avoid putting in a silver kill coil in your loop in combination with nickle blocks due to running the risk of damaging the nickle plating, so wondering if its the same thing, but instead its your fittings.

I fished out my two kill coils from my reservoir but they've been in the loop since I re did everything about 4 days ago. I don't have enough tubing ATM to redo the entire loop. Is 4 days a long enough time to cause this type of reaction?
post #2469 of 3087
It shouldn't. It's usually a long-term process, like over a month or so like what you had, but with the silver out of the loop, it should stabilize, but if you want to be on even safer side, change out the water just to make sure.

I'd do something like weekly checks on the tubing to see if its doing it again.
post #2470 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Systemlord View Post

You might find valuable information by just checking the PH level of the distilled water in your loop, this will tell you if you have an acidic (1-5.5 yellow), neutral (6,7, 8 green) and/or alkaline (9-35 purple) chemical reaction! Pool supply store should give you some testing strips for free, dip it in the reservoir and see what colors you get!

It should be neutral (6-8 green) right?
    
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CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
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CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
XSPC EX360 Copper Triple-Fan Radiator Swiftech MCP350™ 12 VDC Pump Phobya 13/10mm Compression Fitting - Knurling ... Phobya Balancer 150 Silver Nickel 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
EK Radeon 7870 GTX VGA Liquid Cooling Block - N... PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 3/8"ID... Windows 7  Asus VW246H 
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Asus VW246H Rosewill RK-800G OCZ Fatal1ty 750 watt Scratch Built 
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