Originally Posted by Lareson
I know there's been issues with combining nickle and silver and also wondering if using it in combination with distilled water and a biocide in a way causes some issues. Judi924, you said you had nickle barbs, right? I think that's your issue there. The silver from the kill coil and the nickle barbs are reacting and causing your tubing to look like that. I say take out the kill coil, leave everything else like it is, redo the tubing and check back with us. It just kind of clicked with me when I was reading about the issues with nickle and silver.
I notice that EK and Koolance said avoid putting in a silver kill coil in your loop in combination with nickle blocks due to running the risk of damaging the nickle plating, so wondering if its the same thing, but instead its your fittings.
silver and nickel cause galvanic corrosion BUT
-in the past i have used a SKC with nickel plated BP comps and not had problems with the nickel flaking.
I personally do not use SKCs anymore, i use Mayhems coolants that have all the necessary inhibitors/biocides included-they work great.
It all depends on the quality of the nickel plating-a little imperfection/hole the size of a few microns can lead to eventual flaking of the nickel coating.
Hence the problem that EK had with their earlier nickel blocks.
That information was afforded to me by the platers that i sent an EK HF supreme that needed de plating.
I had even toyed with the idea of silver plating the block (same price as nickel plating), but i opted for good old copper-block is working perfectly-excellent temps (OT
Originally Posted by nleksan
I wonder, how many people are using the Cu-Sulphate PTNuke and how many are using PTNuke-PHN, and what percentage of each have had plasticizer issues??
Also, the Primochill Advanced LRT has been good to me; I really like it, especially the fact that the black from the fittings that rubs off onto the white of the tubing can easily be removed! The tubing IS NOTICEABLY STIFFER THAN the PRO LRT, but it holds bends extremely well.
Also, the stuff seems to be slightly different in terms of tolerance than the Primoflex Pro LRT, as when I went to put the first bit of tubing over a Bitspower Compression Barb, it simply wouldn't go! It took me like 5 minutes to get it on there! This is compared to the Pro LRT which did take some effort but not so much that I was worried about breaking something! I HONESTLY THOUGHT that I had gotten a box with the wrong size marked on it, because it felt like trying to put 7/16x3/4 tubing on a 1/2x3/4 compression!
Anyway, here are a couple pics of the "PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 1/2x3/4 WHITE Tubing" in my rig... I know it isn't finished yet; I am having a B!TCH of a time with the last run of tubing, from the EK Multioption Res X2 top outlet to the XSPC Single Bay Res Inlet, as my fill-port is in-between the two so a nice bend is almost impossible (I have at least a half-dozen cuts of tubing that were off by just a few millimeters or so!)....
Have a pot of boiling water or a kettle next to you, dip the end of the tubing in for a while (till is becomes more pliable) then you can overcome the problems encountered with placing stiff tubing over barbs etc
Originally Posted by Fyrwulf
Why would anyone put uncoated nickle in their loops? It makes me wonder how many of these so-called plasticizer issues are really due to galvanic corrosion.
No such thing as 'un coated' nickel-nickel is used as a coating itself
Nearly 99% of fittings are brass, coated with nickel etc.Edited by kkorky - 2/11/13 at 5:26am