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post #2481 of 3087
I just check my loop pH with dip sticks and I got around 5, maybe 6. That is totally normal, I guess, while using distilled water since the CO2 goes into the water to make H2CO3, HCO3 (-) and CO3 (2-) so the pH drop around 6 normally, maybe lower but not that much.

I will undo my loop soon. I will see how me feser tubing have hold that. I'm not worry about my block since it isn't a very strong acid and it should do any damaged.

Lee17
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post #2482 of 3087
Well i have to say primochill primoflex advanced tubing is amazing, ran it for two months and had zero plasticizer and clouding, but destroyed my tubing by adding Mayham's Pink UV dye which stained my tubing pretty bad.

20130217_114005.jpg
** Me draining the Pink UV dye out my loop **

20130217_132901.jpg
** From left to right primochill primoflex advanced Crystal Clear> Stained Crystal Clear> Bloodshed Red **

20130217_130801.jpg
** Computer Re-Tubed **
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post #2483 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Qu1ckset View Post

Well i have to say primochill primoflex advanced tubing is amazing, ran it for two months and had zero plasticizer and clouding, but destroyed my tubing by adding Mayham's Pink UV dye which stained my tubing pretty bad.


1)Mayhems Pink dyes does that to tubing-it says so in the thread

2) Using mayhems coolants seems to reduce if not eliminate tubing problems

Im looking forward to hearing from users that have just run the 'standard' SKC /Biocide and Distilled water wink.gif
post #2484 of 3087
I'm happy to report that after 7 months of usage, my black XSPC high flex tubing is perfectly fine with no signs of plasticizing.

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post #2485 of 3087
Yeah, I know red and pink dyes have to have a higher concentration of pigment to get the proper color, so yeah, tube staining will happen.

I really hope that we can help push along the idea that having a silver kill coil and biocide in distilled water isn't always the best solution and as its now showing, it may cause some serious issues. I know the pre-mixes and dyes have came a long way from what they used to be, so people shouldn't be afraid to use them.

I'm really glad Mayhems came into the picture with their dyes. Not only do they produce awesome results, but they seemed to have solved a majority of the problems that previous dye brands had.
post #2486 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wookieelover View Post

Just want to add my experience with tubing.
Ran some Durelene tubing with Mayhems X1 pre mix and cheap DI water. Ran for almost 3 months and had zero plasticizer or clouding. Water temps also got very hot.
I did flush the rad with water and bi carb prior to use.

Currently running same coolant mix with Primochill Advanced blood red tubing.
End of week one and tubing still clear.

I've tried to abuse the Primochill Primoflex Advanced tubing and each time have failed, so now I'm quitting and am just going to use it. Ordered a few retail packages of 10 feet since Primochill got it right this time around!
post #2487 of 3087
I am using the advanced on my first wc build too, I just need to decided color... Red, Black, White, Clear, Blue...
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post #2488 of 3087
I just wanted to share some observations I have made and one issue that hasn't been discussed as far as I am aware.
This is my first water block and as you can see why I don't use Plexi/acrylic in my pc at all The cracks are evident this cost me a motherboard
Why did this happen? I can not say for 100% certain it was either a sudden temperature change, coolant attacking the acrylic or overtighten fitting. Either way I personally stay clear of any acrylic and use acetal as garanteed safe alternative.



I thought I would show my tubing after 3 months use I did notice a slight browning to the tube but nothing to be concerned about. But the interest part was where mainly in the windowed area of the side panel. I used 50/50 mix of car antifreeze.



I wanted red tubing and decided to run Materkleer UV reactive red tubing with a lower dose of 30/70 mix of antifreeze as wanted the benefits of the very small gains (1-2degrees) of using pure water+biocide.
I used the red tubing because of now dilute antifeeze is pinkish.
I don't want to go into the water/biocide or coolant PC/car debate but simply I personally would never run any coolant loop without any anticorrsion additives.

Now for my new theory, I work in a tannery and chemicals we use are very corrosive I can tell you that even stainless steel will rust in this envoroment as you can see in following pics.
I am showing a 12 year old pneumatic pvc air line that has gone completly brown but in the control panel it is still completly clear.







As you can see that is still the same air line just one difference the control cabinet is closed ie no UV light exposure, as you can see the surrounding controls are also showing corrosion meaning that this pvc air line has been exposed to a range of chemicals.

I cannot find any data on UV resistance on any PC based tubing but I think it is a plausable theory that this is why some tubing is changing colour.
I have read post of friends using same roll ot tubing and same coolant/biocide but one has tubing problems one has no problems.
I believe the popularity of UV reactive tubing/coolants is promoting us to put in UV lights thus creating a nothing more than sun tanning saloon inside our cases.
This is only one issue amongst many that could lead to discoloured tubing.
I live in New Zealand so we natually know about the hole in the ozone and the effects of UV light exposure on many different materials.

DSC_0889.JPG

Just another pic of my latest build biggrin.gif
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post #2489 of 3087
So ALTR, Durelene, or Masterkleer? Clear tubing btw.
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post #2490 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by NinjaSushi2 View Post

So ALTR, Durelene, or Masterkleer? Clear tubing btw.

What's the rest of your setup looking like? It may help deciding on what kind you'd like.

I'm about to make a list that I think tubing should go together with. This does not reflect anyone else's opinion or results in this thread but my own. Take it as a suggestion.

Durelene ---> Only distilled water and Mayhem's Dyes OR a pre-mixed coolant like Koolance or EK - no other additives - use this one if you have nickel in your loop (blocks, fittings, barbs)

Masterklear ---> Distilled water, biocide and silver kill coil - make sure there is zero nickel in your loop for this one due to the silver kill coil, can cause galvanic corrosion and ruin nickel plating

ALTR ----> I'm still not sure about this one as it's too new, but should work with similar cooling setups as the 2 above, either a dye mix or biocide/kill coil combo, without any issues

Remember, if you have any nickel in your loop, whether it's your barbs, fittings or blocks, DO NOT USE A SILVER KILL COIL! It can cause galvanic corrosion and ruin the nickel plating!
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