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post #2501 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkorky View Post

Ok European water cooling people !!

Nice work sir-thanks very much for your effort much appreciated thumb.gif

Thanks I understand the edit this thread is getting out of control
BTW that is pic is my res-cpu-rad-gpu-rad-gpu-rad loop in my NZXT 820 case
kamikaze
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kamikaze
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post #2502 of 3087
i got primo 7/16 uv blue its been in for about 3 weeks still flawless i run distilled and maby 10% isoproply alcohol i will repost in the thread if i ever have any problem but i doubt it

iv rarly had any problems running this no ali clouding nothing ... when i ran pure distilled only i had clouding and small agi problems

the one who showed me this ... and all my water skills not pc related told me alcohol is the best way its never failed me ... this was in the rv buisness he uced vodka for antifreeze in potable water aka drinking water systems for the winter

iv also heared of running pure vodka works grate to never tried it but 40% alcohol and the rest pure water i cant see why it be to bad it may vap trew tubes at a minute rate but i doubt it
post #2503 of 3087
Problem with IPA is that it can have adverse reactions with plastics (Plexiglass in particular, I believe), causing micro-fissures at first but eventually "eating away" at it. Same thing can happen to O-Rings with IPA in the loop; they dry out and can no longer effectively seal, causing leaks.

I'm certainly very glad you haven't had this problem, but I would definitely recommend STOPPING USING IT! If you want something to act as a Biocide as well as provide increased lubricity for the pumps AND provide a small boost to cooling potential, then look at adding RedLine Water Wetter. Been using it in my race/track cars for many years, and on my built, blown, and less-than-50%-original-parts 328Ci, it dropped temps at the track from around 235F to 208-211F during 10+lap runs staying very high in the rev-range (Redline is 8250rpm, swapped in a 6MT from '06 ZHP after having it cryo-treated and strengthened, and diff is a fully custom Quaife Many-Clutch 3.25:1 Limited Slip Diff with variable locking), which means not dropping below around 5200rpm for ~12-15min... That's running PURE DISTILLED WATER and 2x BOTTLES REDLINE WATER WETTER!!!

I figure if it can do that, then it is actually working to decrease the surface tension of the water, which is not something that is temperature dependent. Upon looking at the MSDS, it certainly can act as a Biocide too, lol. Oh, and I know that the surface tension is affected because it is so much easier to bleed when the WW is in the loop vs when it isn't; never get big bubbles with RL WW, the small bubbles don't turn into froth/foam, and the loop will bleed in less than half the time.
I haven't done any SCIENTIFIC comparisons between running DI + RL WW vs running DI + PTNuke-PHN, but I've seen the loop run with a 1.4C better Delta-T using an 85/15 Distilled/WW combination compared to Distilled/PTNuke-PHN.... It could be error on my part, the sensors*, etc, but I have done my best to rule that out.

* Temp Sensors and Locations (Click to show)
2x Ambient Air Temp sensors (1 in front of the intake, the other 6ft away from the computer area), 2x Water Temp Sensors (1 after each radiator; I am going to add one to the reservoir still), 2x Case Temp Sensors (1x near HDD's in front, 1x above PSU in back), 4x Radiator Air Temp Sensors (2 per rad, one measuring air-in and one air-out), 1x Case Exhaust (measures the air coming out of the case to see difference vs air coming in). Not all are currently hooked up, as I need a Temp Sensor Readout that will allow me to hook up multiple sensors and that is available for purchase independent of anything else; currently I use an LCD Readout with 6x Temp Probe leads from an older case, BP H2O Temp Sensors, 2x Aquarium Temp Sensors (nice bc they have little suction cups), 2 XSPC ones, 2 FrozenCPU ones.... Also have a FLIR camera, but don't exact use that every day lol.
I also have temp sensors on the MB VRM's (one front, one rear), one HDD (it gets the least airflow), the pump base, and the Fan Controller's MOSFET/VRM area (to ensure that the heatsinks I added worked, and then I figured I'd just leave the Probe there).
   
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Z77 Bench-a-lot
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post #2504 of 3087
Took the plunge on some primochill uv green (no green adv.) since it was cheap. Looking good so far. I asked a fellow member who bought some recently and he didn't have any plasticize. could be a good batch I guess so I bought some. amazon has the 10' for ~$9

edit: this uv green 3/8x5/8 is much better in terms of overall build quality. Its just a bit better and slight smaller (a good thing for my comps) compared to the crappy uv blue i had a few months ago in the same size.
Edited by wermad - 3/11/13 at 4:52pm
post #2505 of 3087
Been running clear Primochill Advanced LRT since November 10th. Tore down my loop this week for a few changes and still have clear tubing. My mayhems pastel was settling in my drain tube, eliminated the low point drain tube to prevent my pastels from settling as i drain my loop BMW style from the top with a syringe and some tubing anyways. Tubing is still clear.

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post #2506 of 3087
I've been running Advanced LRT too and mine is still pretty clear as well, definitely better than the Duralene I was using before. This tubing seems like a win for me, it's not as flexible as I would've liked but it looks great.
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post #2507 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkorky View Post

Ok European water cooling people !!


-your wait is over, for those of you who want to get the ADV Primochill tubing, you can now buy it here :

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/tubing.html?limit=all (scroll down)

...

Nice work sir-thanks very much for your effort much appreciated thumb.gif

+1 rep

Thank you very much for the heads up on this! thumb.gif

I asked few days ago again Specialtech about this but unfortunately they still have no final day on when they will get it...

Still, its nice to see that European shops start (slowly) making advanced lrt available, so that we Europeans wont have to pay too much for postage fees.

Unfortunately EKWB has not available the 7/16-5/8 black, plus they dont seem to have the 10ft sealed packages available, which i really prefer...
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post #2508 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElGreco View Post

Thank you very much for the heads up on this! thumb.gif

I asked few days ago again Specialtech about this but unfortunately they still have no final day on when they will get it...

Still, its nice to see that European shops start (slowly) making advanced lrt available, so that we Europeans wont have to pay too much for postage fees.

Unfortunately EKWB has not available the 7/16-5/8 black, plus they dont seem to have the 10ft sealed packages available, which i really prefer...




Contact them and ask for Niko, he should be able to help you wink.gif

I have the clear tubing 7/16-5/8 which i got from the states, but i also want the black in the same measurements.
Edited by kkorky - 3/13/13 at 1:38am
post #2509 of 3087
Just ordered some Tygon E-3603 tubing. Crazy expensive (1/2 ID 3/4 OD), but DEHP plasticizer free and a bit harder than E-1000 (A56 vs A40 durometer), so less likely to kink. Rated for medical use as well, which E-1000 isn't.
Quote:
Saint Gobain is replacing TYGON R-3603 with TYGON E-3603 June 2013 SGPPL will stop production of all laboratory grade tubing containing DEHP and December 2013 will cease the sale of tubing containing DEHP

Really seems strange that almost no one is using non-DEHP Tygon. Seems vast majority is Primochill, Masterkleer, Duralene, etc.
Edited by dr/owned - 3/13/13 at 5:33pm
post #2510 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkorky View Post

Contact them and ask for Niko, he should be able to help you wink.gif

I have the clear tubing 7/16-5/8 which i got from the states, but i also want the black in the same measurements.

Thanks thumb.gif
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