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post #2531 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElGreco View Post



By the way, mayhems ultra pure water with kill coil caused quite a galvanic corrosion to my silver shiny bitspower fittings in the past! I did not use galvanic corrosion inhibitors as i should!


i am sorry to have to say this but, im doing so, so you have the true facts-not to shoot you down thumb.gif

-Mayhem's couldnt have caused a Galvanic reaction(i e be directly responsible), plain and simple mixing of metals does that.

Various retailers such as Koolance and EKWB have warnings about the mixing of metals and the use of silver,
although, if you ask others on this forum, they will also tell you that poor plating is to blame-i tend to agree with them.

-using any liquid without inhibitors would give you the same result if you mix certain metals.

That is why you should use Mayhems pastels and or X1 if you are using Mayhems products-these both have inhibitors and need no additives.

The X1 as you said should be changed around every 6 months, wheras the Pastel, can easily (and safetly) be used for up to 2 yrs-my pastel has been running for over 6 months and there are no problems whatsoever-even with the cheap Mastercleer tubing that its running through.



A while back, i posted quite a good amount of information on galvanic corrosion, complete with links to charts showing different metal compatability-just use the search function in this thread to find it smile.gif
Edited by kkorky - 3/28/13 at 3:32pm
post #2532 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkorky View Post

i am sorry to have to say this but, im doing so, so you have the true facts-not to shoot you down thumb.gif

-Mayhem's couldnt have caused a Galvanic reaction(i e be directly responsible), plain and simple mixing of metals does that.
quote]


I agree with this it is because you didn't use a corrosion inhibitor with your Mayhems ultra pure water
but you did state that
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post #2533 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkorky View Post

i am sorry to have to say this but, im doing so, so you have the true facts-not to shoot you down thumb.gif

-Mayhem's couldnt have caused a Galvanic reaction(i e be directly responsible), plain and simple mixing of metals does that.

Various retailers such as Koolance and EKWB have warnings about the mixing of metals and the use of silver,
although, if you ask others on this forum, they will also tell you that poor plating is to blame-i tend to agree with them.

-using any liquid without inhibitors would give you the same result if you mix certain metals.

That is why you should use Mayhems pastels and or X1 if you are using Mayhems products-these both have inhibitors and need no additives.

The X1 as you said should be changed around every 6 months, wheras the Pastel, can easily (and safetly) be used for up to 2 yrs-my pastel has been running for over 6 months and there are no problems whatsoever-even with the cheap Mastercleer tubing that its running through.



A while back, i posted quite a good amount of information on galvanic corrosion, complete with links to charts showing different metal compatability-just use the search function in this thread to find it smile.gif

Ok, then I guess I will be going with Primochill Advance LRT Clear tubing w/ Mayhem's Pastel Red.

EK Supremacy Acrylic/Nickel
EK 7970 Nickel-Plexi (2)
EK Bridge Parallel
XT45 420 rad
UT60 240 rad
ST30 120 rad
MCP35x
Bitspower 150 res
Bitspower Black Sparkle fittings.

Thoughts on these....Am I good to go????
 
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post #2534 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by bustacap22 View Post

Ok, then I guess I will be going with Primochill Advance LRT Clear tubing w/ Mayhem's Pastel Red.

EK Supremacy Acrylic/Nickel
EK 7970 Nickel-Plexi (2)
EK Bridge Parallel
XT45 420 rad
UT60 240 rad
ST30 120 rad
MCP35x
Bitspower 150 res
Bitspower Black Sparkle fittings.

Thoughts on these....Am I good to go????


No!

You need a case biggrin.gif

Very nice choice of gear-, you be fine-enjoy putting it all together, and dont forget to share your end product with the community:

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery

Im sure that people would like to see your pride and joy smile.gif
post #2535 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkorky View Post

No!

You need a case biggrin.gif

Very nice choice of gear-, you be fine-enjoy putting it all together, and dont forget to share your end product with the community:

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery

Im sure that people would like to see your pride and joy smile.gif

Yes, will do. Started to get pics together for a build log....recieved my Alphacool universal pump mount....Key word UNIVERSAL...Ya...I have to do some drilling to house my MCP35x pump w/heatsink/fan.
 
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post #2536 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by bustacap22 View Post

Yes, will do. Started to get pics together for a build log....recieved my Alphacool universal pump mount....Key word UNIVERSAL...Ya...I have to do some drilling to house my MCP35x pump w/heatsink/fan.


Good luck with that bud

-wish i was you, but the wait for the gear for my new rig is going to take at least another month sadsmiley.gif
post #2537 of 3087
Very pleased with Primochill Advanced 1/2x3/4 in White! The tubing IS a bit stiffer than the Pro LRT, but the color of the tubing is absolutely perfect; the white is "pearl-like" in that it is somewhere between matte and glossy, and the color is indistinguishable between the various rolls from different boxes (retail boxes of 10ft + SysPrep) I have. It is a near perfect match for the Switch 810, and in fact it is almost the exact same color as BMW's "Alpine White" (as I found out by holding it up to my M3).

The only thing that's frustrated me is that I would no longer consider it "Low Turn Radius" tubing. It's great for making those beautiful long, sweeping bends like I have from my top rad to GPU block and from GPU block to bottom rad, but the tighter bends such as from my EK Multioption X2 150 Advanced Reservoir (top port) to the hodgepodge of fittings leading into my XSPC Single 5.25 Bay Res are extremely difficult. It was such a PITA that it held up my reassembling my loop for a couple weeks (well, that and I'm in the midst of a move) and the way I fixed it was to have a 90deg triple-rotary coming out of the top of the EK res and then the fittings for the XSPC res inlet are (from res outward) a Swiftech Lok-Seal Dual-Triple-Slot SLI Fitting (essentially a Male-Male D-Plug) then a Swiftech Lok-Seal Q-Block with a 45deg dual-rotary Bitspower comp attached to the fillport tubing (leading up to the top just above the window where there is a BP "Bulkhead" fill-port fitting, an XSPC extension, a Swiftech Extension, and a Monsoon Compression), then a 45deg dual-rotary Bitspower compression fitting. It's a lot of fittings and very bulky and ugly, but thankfully hidden from view. I just hope over time that it doesn't cause issues with the plexiglass reservoir threads :S

I would not hesitate to recommend this tubing, but I would also recommend that you strongly consider spending more on fittings, ideally Rotary Angled Adapters, to make it possible for you to run much straighter lines.
Also, ALWAYS fiddle with the fittings so that any curves are following the "natural" curve from the tubing (from having been coiled up), as it is far more flexible when bending it with the curve rather than trying to fight against it.

Anyway, that's my impression!
   
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post #2538 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

Very pleased with Primochill Advanced 1/2x3/4 in White! The tubing IS a bit stiffer than the Pro LRT, but the color of the tubing is absolutely perfect; the white is "pearl-like" in that it is somewhere between matte and glossy, and the color is indistinguishable between the various rolls from different boxes (retail boxes of 10ft + SysPrep) I have. It is a near perfect match for the Switch 810, and in fact it is almost the exact same color as BMW's "Alpine White" (as I found out by holding it up to my M3).

The only thing that's frustrated me is that I would no longer consider it "Low Turn Radius" tubing. It's great for making those beautiful long, sweeping bends like I have from my top rad to GPU block and from GPU block to bottom rad, but the tighter bends such as from my EK Multioption X2 150 Advanced Reservoir (top port) to the hodgepodge of fittings leading into my XSPC Single 5.25 Bay Res are extremely difficult. It was such a PITA that it held up my reassembling my loop for a couple weeks (well, that and I'm in the midst of a move) and the way I fixed it was to have a 90deg triple-rotary coming out of the top of the EK res and then the fittings for the XSPC res inlet are (from res outward) a Swiftech Lok-Seal Dual-Triple-Slot SLI Fitting (essentially a Male-Male D-Plug) then a Swiftech Lok-Seal Q-Block with a 45deg dual-rotary Bitspower comp attached to the fillport tubing (leading up to the top just above the window where there is a BP "Bulkhead" fill-port fitting, an XSPC extension, a Swiftech Extension, and a Monsoon Compression), then a 45deg dual-rotary Bitspower compression fitting. It's a lot of fittings and very bulky and ugly, but thankfully hidden from view. I just hope over time that it doesn't cause issues with the plexiglass reservoir threads :S

I would not hesitate to recommend this tubing, but I would also recommend that you strongly consider spending more on fittings, ideally Rotary Angled Adapters, to make it possible for you to run much straighter lines.
Also, ALWAYS fiddle with the fittings so that any curves are following the "natural" curve from the tubing (from having been coiled up), as it is far more flexible when bending it with the curve rather than trying to fight against it.

Anyway, that's my impression!

Ya, I am looking at my price cart for fittings....Its up there. Plus I know that I should get a little extra for those unforseen problems. Tubing, coolant, fittings, and cables and build should be good to go. I did end up getting the XT 420 rad, MCP35x, and those Bgear Blaster you think highly off. Was testing the Bgears RPM and all but 1 was running close to their 1800 rated rpm. The one was only running at 500rpm. Are you using y-splitter or PCB for your fan setup.
 
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post #2539 of 3087
That sounds like a great setup, although I am sorry to hear about the fan :S Possibly a bad unit...

I have my Bgears connected to my BitFenix Hydra Pro in 2 sets of 3 fans using 2 BitFenix Alchemy Sleeved 1x3pin-to-3x3pin Fan Splitters. It works great for me...

I really hope you get it sorted with the fan, although my money is on "bad luck" and it's a defective unit.... :/
   
Z77 Bench-a-lot
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Z77 Bench-a-lot
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Heatkiller GTX680 "Hole Edition" Block + Backplate XSPC Single-Bay Res (Single 5.25 bay) EK Multioption Res X2 - Advanced 150 DD "Fill-Port Res" + Fill-Port Fitting (Red) 
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post #2540 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by bustacap22 View Post

Ok, then I guess I will be going with Primochill Advance LRT Clear tubing w/ Mayhem's Pastel Red.

EK Supremacy Acrylic/Nickel
EK 7970 Nickel-Plexi (2)
EK Bridge Parallel
XT45 420 rad
UT60 240 rad
ST30 120 rad
MCP35x
Bitspower 150 res
Bitspower Black Sparkle fittings.

Thoughts on these....Am I good to go????

http://www.overclock.net/t/915966/please-read-before-purchasing-ek-nickel-plated-blocks-update-revised-plating-info

I have no idea if this would applicable for you as are using Mayhem's Pastel Red with corrosion inhibitor and this seems to be one of those things some people experience tubing problems some don't same with nickel plating.
I personally steer clear of all nickel plating and acrylic
and use the plain copper/ acetyl alternative


only because this happened to me and I have read other people with acrylic reservoirs and blocks spontaneously cracking
PS I only lost my motherboard to this leak
Edited by feznz - 3/28/13 at 9:29pm
kamikaze
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kamikaze
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