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post #761 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post

Yes, I always order my tubing from Sidewinder.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu7id5o.html
This is the exact stuff I ordered for the photo above which is the 7/16 x 5/8", but I've also has the same good luck with the larger 1/2" x 3/4" stuff.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu1idx3.html
You can't beat this stuff for the price:thumb:

I has always ordered my stuff from Gary ( Sidewindercomputers.com ) I have had spoken with him two or tree times over the phone just to make some changes in my orders and he's was very professional the way he handled the changes and they way he explained. thumb.gif . by the way the size the tubing you mentioned above is the size i always use, by next week my waterblock going to arrive and i will love to change my tubes before i install my new blocks, i can't wait any long to put my FTW's under water but I'm sure the problem about the *Plasticizer* and this *White Film* inside the tube i will going to hold few days more till i put my hand's on new tubing, by doing that I'll going to have some extra time to take all my loop apart and do a very good maintenance before i put everything back together.
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post #762 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post

I like the Duralene for the price, I wouldn't say it stays perfect, but it doesn't do any of that white film stuff.
Out of curiosity, I went and took a picture of my son's system I put together 16months ago using filtered tapwater and PTnuke and Duralene.
Here is a picture of that. I guess there is a little clouding, but not bad for 16months of using tapwater..biggrin.gif Excuse the dust bunnies, they have been running rampant.
duralene.jpg
Using good clean distilled would probably do even better. Only thing I noticed using it which I've done for lots of testing stuff is the flexibility is a bit more stiff than Tygon 3603 or Feser Tube. My personal favorite would be the UV colored Feser tube if money is no object. I have a couple of pieces of solid blue I've used for all sorts of testing and system builds now that is a couple of years old and it's still in good usable condition.

Holy crap, thank god for Martin. If that's what it looks like after 16 MONTHS and on regular tapwater, then this is the only tubing anyone should buy. I'm going to stock up on it, lest god forbid they stop making it or they change something in the plastic formula and it starts to plasticize like all the other worthless crap put out by Primochill, Tygon, Masterkleer, etc etc.
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post #763 of 3087
Thanks for the links.. Look like I found my next set of tubing...
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post #764 of 3087
Compared to the nightmarish results of Tygon 3603 and primochill that stuff looks great. I can see some clouding, but with such cheap stuff I have no qualms about replacing it once a year. I'm also guessing that using distilled water will have better results.

My package should come at some point this week. I'll post some pics of it if I get a chance.
post #765 of 3087
Just a thought. As an engineer who has worked in the plastics business I can tell you that most plastic tubing contains plasticizer of varing amounts and properties depending on the desired end use. There are several plastics on the market which don't use plasticizers but I don't know how suitable they would be for water cooling. One of these, which is made in a food grade is called PEBAX. It is already used in toothbrushes and other applications needing flexibility. It might be worth seeing if it is extruded into tubing.

WW
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post #766 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wild Wally View Post

Just a thought. As an engineer who has worked in the plastics business I can tell you that most plastic tubing contains plasticizer of varing amounts and properties depending on the desired end use. There are several plastics on the market which don't use plasticizers but I don't know how suitable they would be for water cooling. One of these, which is made in a food grade is called PEBAX. It is already used in toothbrushes and other applications needing flexibility. It might be worth seeing if it is extruded into tubing.
WW

Not that plasticizer is a bad thing it's not supposed to breakdown to early in it's life, maybe after 5 years but not after only 3 weeks. Seems like all manufacturers are desperately trying to cut cost regardless of how we feel about it. The water cooling of computers and PC hardware is becoming a pain in the you know what, nickel plating failure, plasticizer problems and I believe many more unfavorable changes are headed our way!

Bitspower has already made some unfavorable changes to their process which will have it's own thread once confirmed! At this rate water cooling is getting to be more of a problem everyday, if it continues I will dump water cooling altogether to avoid all of this crap!!
Edited by Systemlord - 6/11/12 at 2:20pm
post #767 of 3087
The thing a lot of people are over looking is that this didn't happen so quickly back in 2011 or before that. I ran primochill clear in the fall of 2011 and I sold it in pristine condition. I did a multitude of tests with Mayhem's dyes and this never happen. Come 2012 and this thing just exploded. So, 18 month old tube is probably in good shape because of the hard fact it was made well before this year.


I'm breaking down my loop tonight in preparation for a platform swap (downgrade) and removing my leaky reservoir (rma time). I'll inspect this new tube since its been about two weeks now smile.gif
post #768 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wild Wally View Post

Just a thought. As an engineer who has worked in the plastics business I can tell you that most plastic tubing contains plasticizer of varing amounts and properties depending on the desired end use. There are several plastics on the market which don't use plasticizers but I don't know how suitable they would be for water cooling. One of these, which is made in a food grade is called PEBAX. It is already used in toothbrushes and other applications needing flexibility. It might be worth seeing if it is extruded into tubing.
WW

This is what I have been told by my supplier also. Pretty much everything includes it unless it is specifically advertised to be Plasticizer free.
There are two parts that I know of now that Tygon makes without Plasticizer. One is Tygon 2001, i.e. AE300038 and the other is the new Tygon E-1000.
E-1000 is the same as Tygon R-1000 ultra-soft, but E-1000 has had a plasticizer chemical pulled out of the manufacturing process.

My experience FWIW, I've seen crap in loops that I suspected came out of Thermochill rads when using Durelene, and I've had loops with R3400 and R3603 be crap-free after two years. It varies from one loop to the next. Durelene / Vincon / Masterclear is all made by Saint Gobain in Akron Ohio, the same folks that bring you Tygon.
post #769 of 3087
Plasticizers is nothing special...it's just a solvent that makes the polymer more flexible and easy to process. What may be happening is the materials may be of lower quality causing the plasticizer to volatilize prematurely leaving the hose less flexible and more prone to cracking. UV radiation will also degrade polymers by attacking the chemical bonds which provide stiffness.

While not universally true I have noticed some products sourced from mainland China are not of the same quality as those produced elsewhere. Quality control tends to be spotty in Chinese industry with lower grade materials sometimes being substituted.

WW
Edited by Wild Wally - 6/11/12 at 5:47pm
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post #770 of 3087
Oh, by the way, I wish I had wandered on to this thread some time ago. There's a lot of useful information here. The pictures are great too. thumb.gif

WW
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