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post #911 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by squick3n View Post

Ageneis that looks awful. I'm kind of shocked it isn't in your blocks. I almost looks like corrosion, but that would also show up in your blocks
I do agree with you looks like corrosion i have seem things like that before i had a friend of mine with the same thing in the picture above but much worse .
Quote:
Originally Posted by n0n44m View Post

I have no hope of avoiding this issue ... especially since my rig runs 24/7 (!!)
I used Masterkleer 13/10 UV Blue on my build last year, with a bit of Feser 13/10 UV Blue on the external connection
for the first 6 months I had no issues, but then flow steadily started dropping from 110 l/hour to as low as 85 over a course of two months, until I opened my Aquacomputer filter and cleaned it. After that it stayed at 105ish for a week or two before dropping again
I saw more and more particles floating through the reservoir, especially the one time I powered it down for a day and booted it up again
this is what the tube and fitting between CPU and GPU looked like when I removed it last month (again, this ran pretty much 24/7 for about 12 months!) Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
2012-06-2914.00.56vtz1l.jpg
with my new build I'll be using the same Masterkleer tubing, but now I have the filter on top of the case (see build log smile.gif ) so I can hopefully clean it much easier
I'll post some pics when I open up my Supreme HF , I'm curious to see if it has the plasticizer in it as well ! Temperatures were never noticeably affected though...
edit: using distilled + kill coil

the only option you have now is change the tubing and pray for it not get more serious that is now. I never used Masterkleer but I read good think about it. if you want to try something cheap and a bit more safe give a Durelene a shot. thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neale1993 View Post

I dont think its just the piping to take into consideration... Got this in my res after using MasterKleer Clear tubing for around 5 months with PrimoChill Blood Red. Tried to clean it out but just cant do it. You can see a clear spot where i got a piece of cloth in an managed to wipe, confirming there is something there.
(sorry havent got the tubing still, but that was thick coating also) Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
338
338
Used MasterKleer again but with mayhems blood red in one loop and green in another and both seem completely fine 2 months in. Tubing still look completely clear (apart from a bit of dust). I dont think in all cases its just the tubing, a combination of fluid and tubing deffinatly but not really one or the other imo.

PrimoChill Blood Red = it's Crystalizer inside of your blocks after weeks of use months this is bad for any kinda loop.
Nice to read one more good thing Masterkleer thumb.gif
About combination of fluid : I'm not here to shoot the first rock in Primochill but it has been serious issue since this Thread started. but something in the chemical in Primochill Tubing is causing this Powder stuff to grow so strong inside they tubing. if you look back you will find a lot cloud tubing but not as heave like Primochill. My Tygon R 3603 had clouded a lot you can see it here Post 796 but one more thing is i never found any POWDER stuff inside my fittings and block even after my Tygon R3603 had milked.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Calistohelix View Post

I just found this thread and don't begin to have time to read all 90 pages of it, but I did go over the last couple of pages and wanted to make sure I'm understanding the conclusions beinghttp://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery/900# drawn as I understand it.
This plasticizer issue is primarily with clear tubing correct? I run Tygon-3606 (or whatever the common one with a number along those lines is) in my current loop and I have noticed clouding with an almost green tinge to it. I run with distilled water and a silver coil and nothing else and the rig never sees any light aside from a couple of LED's in my fans. The loop has been running 24/7 since Sept of last year with the only change being replacing most of the distilled water when I changed the GPU this past January.
As I've seen a spike in temps over the last few weeks (which I'm mostly attributing to dying rad fans) I'm planning on taking apart the loop and re-seating both the GPU & CPU blocks, going from a 3 fan pull to a 6 fan push/pull on my 360 rad, and replacing all the tubing with primochill UV red because I've decided I want to go colored and everything I've read says to stay far far away from dyes. Is the issue being discussed here something I need to be worried about?

Yes, get a Durelene + Mayhems and you be safe thumb.gif trust me i know what I'm talk about.e
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post

The temperature of the water seems to have a big part in it.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1272759/testing-tubing
Primochill clear or color is one of the worse offenders for this problem. The only dye I will use is Mayhems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BGKris View Post

I just ordered 10 ft Durelene PVC tubing to replace my clear primochill. I'm currently using mayhem uv green and lately I've noticed it's not green anymore!! Just white, ugh

thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neale1993 View Post

Any ideas how to clean it out? Im kinda weary about putting it back in my loop, to the point i got out another res an used that instead but i really like this one xD
Tried using hot water, vinegar, mix of both... nothing :/ It seems to float around in the vinegar till i either tip or pump the liquid back out, then it just sits back down again -_-
An yeah... ive been following that thread recently... As said i use mayhems now anyways... much better smile.gif Will continue to in future too...

that's no way to clean it like you think. you have to keep in mind that this stuff can get into your blocks and late on you have to change no only the tube itself but spend a lot more in new blocks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kinru View Post

Use a toothbrush and scrub. Should do it.

cross that out of you mind please do it for your own good.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neale1993 View Post

Thats the thing... i cant get anything in there. Its a solid res, the front doesnt come off and the only ways to get something in is through the fillport or the ports for tubing. I could possibly fit a toothbrush through the holes but i would only be able to get to a small amount of the res.

cross that out of you mind please do it for your own good.
Quote:
Originally Posted by error-id10t View Post

It'd be good if the main findings were covered in the first post but overall I think this affects everything, people only saw this because of clear tubing. You'll find people posting their fittings being covered with this stuff and also their res (like I found but toothbrush and light rub got it out easily). At least one pic with white stuff on their block was also shown .. so it's everywhere and anything, not just clear tubing.
Correct if wrong please..

you are right in certain point. let me clear this out for ya, clear tubing tends to cloud it in certain time of use * cloud* not generate Plasticizes like this one here Post #772 look close to top left corner how the Plasticizes start to pill of like a skin this is the stuff you guys seem moving around in the Tubing and ReS and this gunk in the rad and blocks and start to create another stuff like Crystalizer inside slow your flow and temps start to increase.


PS: I'm here to help not to criticism.

Thank you all for read this i know we had a long run in 91 Pages so 900 Post but in the last 70 pages you guys will find a lot good reading. of course a lot more good reading in all those 900 post but will be a hard to dig so deep.
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post #912 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neale1993 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post

The temperature of the water seems to have a big part in it.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1272759/testing-tubing
Primochill clear or color is one of the worse offenders for this problem. The only dye I will use is Mayhems.

Any ideas how to clean it out? Im kinda weary about putting it back in my loop, to the point i got out another res an used that instead but i really like this one xD
Tried using hot water, vinegar, mix of both... nothing :/ It seems to float around in the vinegar till i either tip or pump the liquid back out, then it just sits back down again -_-

An yeah... ive been following that thread recently... As said i use mayhems now anyways... much better smile.gif Will continue to in future too...

Maybe something like this.

http://www.amazon.com/Small-Bottle-Brush-13-Long/dp/B00274XFXQ
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post #913 of 3087
Put some rice (uncook) with small amount of liquid soap and water and try that.
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post #914 of 3087
Agenesis,

The loop I had didn't run nearly as long as your's did, and I saw the same crap caked in my Enzotech fittings and XSPC compression ones too.
It's been almost one month and the Duralene is still clear as the day I installed it.
You have my deep sympathies for your loop and fittings.


Disadvantages of Duralene:
  1. Bore is not as smooth as other brands.
  2. Only comes in Clear
  3. Unknown long-term dye/UV exposure limitations

Advantages:
  1. No white gunk
  2. Bends almost as well as Primochill LRT (1/2 x 3/4" here, see sig rig for CPU to GPU block bend)
  3. Not as sticky to dust and fingerprints.
  4. Only comes in Clear

Oddities, just for the record:
Small divots inside of tubing inner wall
Slightly "oily" feeling on inside turn of sharp bends... Not sure what it could be, uncertain long term effects.
Edited by jinsoup - 6/29/12 at 11:09pm
post #915 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by aqualad View Post

Put some rice (uncook) with small amount of liquid soap and water and try that.

this method is used when you have a wet pcb with a lot components in it smile.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by jinsoup View Post

Agenesis,
The loop I had didn't run nearly as long as your's did, and I saw the same crap caked in my Enzotech fittings and XSPC compression ones too.
It's been almost one month and the Duralene is still clear as the day I installed it.
You have my deep sympathies for your loop and fittings.
Disadvantages of Duralene:
  1. Bore is not as smooth as other brands.
  2. Only comes in Clear
  3. Unknown long-term dye/UV exposure limitations
Advantages:
  1. No white gunk
  2. Bends almost as well as Primochill LRT (1/2 x 3/4" here, see sig rig for CPU to GPU block bend)
  3. Not as sticky to dust and fingerprints.
  4. Only comes in Clear
Oddities, just for the record:
Small divots inside of tubing inner wall
Slightly "oily" feeling on inside turn of sharp bends... Not sure what it could be, uncertain long term effects.


Nice to see one more with Durelene thumb.gif lets get our brothers out of PrimoChill and by the way i never see any crap stuff stuck on Bitspower fittings. i dunno about the other brands Ezon and XSPC i have seem it with kind of corrosion think and a lot gunk around it.
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post #916 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by skyn3t View Post

Nice to see one more with Durelene thumb.gif lets get our brothers out of PrimoChill and by the way i never see any crap stuff stuck on Bitspower fittings. i dunno about the other brands Ezon and XSPC i have seem it with kind of corrosion think and a lot gunk around it.


yea but not all of us have a fortune to spend on fittings tongue.gif
Do you what the oily feeling is, in the inner U-bend of each bend?
post #917 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by skyn3t View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by aqualad View Post

Put some rice (uncook) with small amount of liquid soap and water and try that.

this method is used when you have a wet pcb with a lot components in it smile.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by jinsoup View Post

Agenesis,
The loop I had didn't run nearly as long as your's did, and I saw the same crap caked in my Enzotech fittings and XSPC compression ones too.
It's been almost one month and the Duralene is still clear as the day I installed it.
You have my deep sympathies for your loop and fittings.
Disadvantages of Duralene:
  1. Bore is not as smooth as other brands.
  2. Only comes in Clear
  3. Unknown long-term dye/UV exposure limitations
Advantages:
  1. No white gunk
  2. Bends almost as well as Primochill LRT (1/2 x 3/4" here, see sig rig for CPU to GPU block bend)
  3. Not as sticky to dust and fingerprints.
  4. Only comes in Clear
Oddities, just for the record:
Small divots inside of tubing inner wall
Slightly "oily" feeling on inside turn of sharp bends... Not sure what it could be, uncertain long term effects.


Nice to see one more with Durelene thumb.gif lets get our brothers out of PrimoChill and by the way i never see any crap stuff stuck on Bitspower fittings. i dunno about the other brands Ezon and XSPC i have seem it with kind of corrosion think and a lot gunk around it.

Mine were covered in it.
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post #918 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post

Mine were covered in it.

the Ezon fittings?
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post #919 of 3087
Quote:
Originally Posted by skyn3t View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk View Post

Mine were covered in it.

the Ezon fittings?

Enzotech , my bad, lol. I cleaned them up with a Q-tip.

424
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post #920 of 3087
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