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TEC chiller build

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
Well my sig rig is totally WC. I have a Black ice gtx 480, gtx 360 with push/pull and shroud, gtx360 with push and shroud and a SR-1 push for my cooling currently ( one loop ). My gpu temps a fine, my cpu is where I'ld like to improve a bit. While running prime95 my max cpu temp (I7 980x OC'ed to 4492mhz HT on) is around 52-54c and high core is 61-63c. But when I am folding with everything (cpu, gtx580, 2 gtx 460"s) max cpu temp is 59-62c and high core 70-72c. I want a way to chill the water before it goes to the cpu (not to the point i would have to insulate). Ild just like to drop the temps while under full load which is 24/7 when folding. I looked into aquarium chillers but I'm just not convinced with them. So lately I've been researching TEC's ( read the stickies and gone thru tons of past threads thumb.gif ). But before I jumped in I had a couple of questions.

1 : Would two blocks similar to this work with the tec/tec's between for a chiller? http://www.shop.customthermoelectric.com/Water-Block-Assembly-30-x-30-x-085-In-outlet-Opposite-Sides-WBA-30-085-AL-R2.htm I would assume I would have to fab something to compress the two block down with the TEC in between them correct?

2: What size TEC/TEC's should I be looking at? I'm not looking to go sub zero, just want take some off the cpu core temps under load.

3: What size Aux psu would do the job? From what Ive read i would probably wire them up in series if I needed more than one.

4: Is there a way to put the TEC/TEC's on a switch to be able to turn them off while not under full load (mainly when not folding). Possibly instead of wiring from the psu to the tec, have it go from the psu to a relay switch then to the tec (dont know if theres a switch that would handle it depending on the size of the tec's. I figured I would have the cpu loop go something like res> rad> cold side of chiller> cpu> nb/sb> rad> res. So that way if I turned off the TEC i would still have the rads to cool while under light load.

5: Would i need to insulate tubing and/or cpu if just chilling the water to a little below ambient?

6: What size rad would be needed to cool the hot side of the chiller?

I know I had more questions but I cant think of them right now so any help would be excellent. biggrin.gif
Edited by Nyghtryder_9 - 1/21/12 at 1:02pm
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post #2 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nyghtryder_9 View Post

5: Would i need to insulate tubing and/or cpu if just chilling the water to a little below ambient?
Condensation is a function of both temperature and humidity.
You need to look at a dew point curve to determine how much cooling you can apply before insulation becomes an issue.
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post #3 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by billbartuska View Post

Condensation is a function of both temperature and humidity.
You need to look at a dew point curve to determine how much cooling you can apply before insulation becomes an issue.

Well my ambient in my computer room is 20-21c putting my dew point at 10c if I did the math right.
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post #4 of 9

Let me recap your current situation:-

4 radiators

-Black Ice GTX480 (rad#1)

-Black Ice GTX360 (rad#2)

-Black Ice GTX360 (rad#3)

-SR1 (what size? 120? 240? 360? 480?) (rad#4)

 

5 heat sources

-i7 980 @ 4.4GHz

-GTX580

-GTX460

-GTX460

-NB/SB

 

I think you have enough cooling power but the loop order is perhaps not optimized to take the full advantage.

For example, if the current loop order is like:-

 

res > pump > GTX580 > GTX460 > GTX460 > NB/SB > CPU > rad#1 > rad#2 >rad#3 >rad#4 >res

 

then, water temp will probably return to close to ambient by the time it is going through rad#3.  As water temp cannot go below ambient, cooling power of rad#4 (and perhaps a part of rad#3) is wasted.

 

So, perhaps it is better to insert radiators in between heat sources to ensure maximum cooling power of the radiators is utilized. For example:-

 

res > pump > GTX580 > GTX460 > GTX460 > rad#1 > rad #2 > CPU > NB/SB > rad#3 > rad#4 > res

 

Of course, this rearrangement will increase the complexity of the tubing layout.

 

Just my 2cents.gif

 

post #5 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by windfire View Post

Let me recap your current situation:-

4 radiators

-Black Ice GTX480 (rad#1)

-Black Ice GTX360 (rad#2)

-Black Ice GTX360 (rad#3)

-SR1 (what size? 120? 240? 360? 480?) (rad#4)

 

5 heat sources

-i7 980 @ 4.4GHz

-GTX580

-GTX460

-GTX460

-NB/SB

 

I think you have enough cooling power but the loop order is perhaps not optimized to take the full advantage.

For example, if the current loop order is like:-

 

res > pump > GTX580 > GTX460 > GTX460 > NB/SB > CPU > rad#1 > rad#2 >rad#3 >rad#4 >res

 

then, water temp will probably return to close to ambient by the time it is going through rad#3.  As water temp cannot go below ambient, cooling power of rad#4 (and perhaps a part of rad#3) is wasted.

 

So, perhaps it is better to insert radiators in between heat sources to ensure maximum cooling power of the radiators is utilized. For example:-

 

res > pump > GTX580 > GTX460 > GTX460 > rad#1 > rad #2 > CPU > NB/SB > rad#3 > rad#4 > res

 

Of course, this rearrangement will increase the complexity of the tubing layout.

 

Just my 2cents.gif

 


Right now my loop goes res- pump- sr1 360- gtx 360- CPU - NB/sb- gtx 360- Asus 580- 2 sapphire 460- gtx 480- Res. It was the easiest way go route tubing.

sent from galaxy II
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post #6 of 9
Thread Starter 
Edited title:

Well I'm bored so I'm going to experiment with incorporating a water chiller into my build to help load temps. Running at 4.5 (ht on) and high core temp gets to 75 while folding. I wanting to knock off 10-20c from full load temp (if possible). So heres what my shopping cart looks like so far:

1. 2x http://www.customthermoelectric.com/Water_blocks/pdf/WBA-4.0-0.92-AL-01.pdf. They may be a little excesive for now, but if I need to add bigger tec's or more than I'ld rather not have to get new blocks later.

2. http://www.trcelectronics.com/Meanwell/psp-600-12.shtml. Think this should do.

3. Was thinking about trying 2 of these ( http://www.customthermoelectric.com/tecs/pdf/12711-5M31-15CQ_spec_sht.pdf ) or
2 of these ( http://www.customthermoelectric.com/tecs/pdf/19911-5L31-15CQ_spec_sht.pdf) or 1 of these
( http://www.customthermoelectric.com/tecs/pdf/12711-5M31-24CZ_spec_sht.pdf ). Not quite sure which would do best if any of them would.
Any suggestions on this will help thumb.gif

Now as far as setup, my plan is build a seperate case for the chiller, atx psu ( for hotside loop and fans ), tec psu, pump and rads ( a 360 and 120 should do from what Ive read). Also I will be installing some sort of toggle switchs that I can turn on the power of the atx psu, and tec psu(hopefully it will work). This way I can turn on the chiller while folding and when its not needed turn it off. My loop setup will be (as mentioned above) for the hotside res>pump>120 rad>hot side of chiller>360 rad>res in built case ans main loop will go res>pump>waterchiller>cpu>Nb/Sb>360 rad>360 rad> gtx 580>gtx460's> 480 rad>res. Were the wate chiller in and out ports are I will be puting Y fitting adapters so I can install temp moniters on either side ( to be able to see before chiller temp and after ). At least this is all what I've came up with in my head over the last few days.

I did consider getting a M-cube Tbalancer, to be able to PWM the setup, but dont understand enough about it and looks like it may require a little modding to work, (or even if it would).

So I'll probably start placing orders for things tonight or tomorrow and see how this goes. Any advise will be appreciated. And will post picks of the progress!
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post #7 of 9
If you run a water chiller to the cpu, then your chilled water loop needs to be seperate without any radiators in it.

Radiators work to move water temperatures to ambient, hot or cold they work to move your water to an equilibrium with your ambient air temperatures.

You would need 3 loops, 1 normal water cooling loop for your video cards, 1 chilled loop to the cpu with no radiators in it and 1 loop for the hotside of the tecs, or use your existing radiators to cool the hotside of the tec, but this will raise your gpu temps.

Your links show a 24v tec and a 15v tecs.

Personally I would run the 4x 19911-5L31-15CQ if your going to use the 2x WBA-4.0-0.92-AL-01 waterblocks

I would run those tecs about 14v, I think you can find a car voltage type psu that will run at ~ 13.4v which is about right for the 24v tecs.

Also those waterblocks are aluminum, but I think they make copper ones that will hold up better in your loop but are kind of pricey.

Your also going to want at least 2 triples to cool 4 of those tecs.
Edited by Mindchi|l - 1/21/12 at 1:42pm
post #8 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mindchi|l View Post

If you run a water chiller to the cpu, then your chilled water loop needs to be seperate without any radiators in it.
Radiators work to move water temperatures to ambient, hot or cold they work to move your water to an equilibrium with your ambient air temperatures.
You would need 3 loops, 1 normal water cooling loop for your video cards, 1 chilled loop to the cpu and 1 loop for the hotside of the tecs, or use your existing radiators to cool the hotside of the tec, but this will raise your gpu temps.
Your links show a 24v tec and a 15v tecs.
Personally I would run the 4x 19911-5L31-15CQ if your going to use the 2x WBA-4.0-0.92-AL-01 waterblocks
I would run those tecs about 14v, I think you can find a car voltage type psu that will run at ~ 13.4v which is about right for the 24v tecs.
Also those waterblocks are aluminum, but I think they make copper ones that will hold up better in your loop but are kind of pricey.
Your also going to want at least 2 triples to cool 4 of those tecs.

See my thinking was to just have the chilled water go thru the normal loop, first the cpu, nb/sb, and by the time it hit the rad before the vga's it would be around ambient anyways. And this way if i didnt run the chiller i'ld still have the rads working to keep everything cool while browsing, etc. Could a setup like this work?

As far as the blocks, I would like copper due to its heat condution, but on those block they have the screw bracket to connect the two, and it just saves me from fabbing some kind of mount for the blocks.
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post #9 of 9
your dt out of a chiller won't be more than 1 or 2ºc, it take multiple passes of the water through a loop to chill water to 10-20ºc dt
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