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Tubing - Painting 77 Bon - Page 2

post #11 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenPC
You can anodize cool colors like red and blue on the fins without interfering with heat dissipation.
That's a great idea. You should try it!
    
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post #12 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snerp
That's a great idea. You should try it!
LOL! HOW? That's why I was asking if anyone had tried it. I hear anodizing aluminum is not an easy task. It requires an acid bath to remove the oxidation...after that what?
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post #13 of 19
I knew of a place around here that did powder coating, but not sure about having something anodized.

I checked Google out......

These places look like they take custom orders.....

http://www.pioneermetal.com/

http://www.alphametal.com/

And this appears to be a do it yourself home kit

http://www.focuser.com/anodize.html

Quote:
New----Basic 2 gallon starter kit

$114.00 for a 2 gallon anodizing line with 8 colors plus sealer and cleaner. Good for most common aluminum alloys such as 6061. Note the 2004 anodizing guide is sold separately.

We expect a report back on your succes
post #14 of 19
I have a place right around the corner that does anodizing and powder coathing. I might run down there and ask them if it can be done. I have a feeling one of the chemicals used might have an ill effect on the copper portion of the HC.
    
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post #15 of 19
you dont want to use * heat paint* .. as your radiator will never get hot enough to cure the paint.. so in effect it will never dry. heat paints needs to reach a certain temperature to dry and cure. just use some regular paint. actually painting your radiator will hinder its cooling performance. , since heat travels on the skin of the metal , but then again what do i know
    
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post #16 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Athanasios
Ive just ordered my wc setup from perfomance-pcs (very good prices and most important all parts are from a single store = one shipping cost) but for 7/16 tubing i got Swiftech's ones, since they lacked MasterKleer (i excluded Primoflex for its high price). Yet, ive been told that they are bringing MasterKleer within the week so, if i could change Swiftech tubing with MasterKleer one, should i do it? The price is the same so, quality is the criterion here. If the quality/perfomance improvement is tiny, then i won't get into the fuss of changing it.

Also, about painting (black) a 77 Bonneville rad, after googling i got a bit of headache... one article writes a whole page on how to paint it (with prime and paint or something like that), other guys (such this one) say "just paint it with standard flat blach heat paint", others just spray-paint it so... what opinion is the correct?

Ill post pics of my wc setup in about two weeks, exam period now...


so you went to all the trouble of searching all over the place for a FAQ on how to paint a heater core and then you never checked the FAQ's here? It just so happens that I have a FAQ on painting a '77 bonnie heater core (link in my sig) And, I even painted it black :-) I painted a couple and since then have moved on to a tripple rad in a new case, but both painted rads belong to other oc.net memebers and they haven't had any problems that I know of.

oh, and btw... I'm subscribing to this tread so if you have any questions you can just post
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post #17 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by soloz2
so you went to all the trouble of searching all over the place for a FAQ on how to paint a heater core and then you never checked the FAQ's here?
Heh, whoops, i missed something there (rushing to pointed FAQ)... just keep the word within this thread and next time ill double-check the FAQ list !

[edit]Soloz, ive just read your FAQ and it is what i was looking for . One question; in the 2nd image (from bottom), the main body (the aluminium one... fins or whatever they're called) is black, while in the just upper photo, they are not painted so...?

Also, i was planning spray paitning as you did, and then overlaying a little lacquier for glossy finishing.
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post #18 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Athanasios
Heh, whoops, i missed something there (rushing to pointed FAQ)... just keep the word within this thread and next time ill double-check the FAQ list !

[edit]Soloz, ive just read your FAQ and it is what i was looking for . One question; in the 2nd image (from bottom), the main body (the aluminium one... fins or whatever they're called) is black, while in the just upper photo, they are not painted so...?

Also, i was planning spray paitning as you did, and then overlaying a little lacquier for glossy finishing.

nope the fins aren't black they just look like they are . it's the same heater core and even though I didn't paint the face/fins at all once the outside/body is painted black the fins just look darker as well.

You can sure do that. Just go for a clear coat in the same brand of pait you used to paint the heater core. Since you are getting a clear coat you'll probably want a mate finish black spray paint.
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post #19 of 19
Thread Starter 
Hmm, both sprays are MOTIP heatresistance paints.

Btw, burnstudios is right about the curing of paint. Directly from the instructions: "...Sand the surface and make it clean, dry and free of grease. Protect surroundins. Do not apply any primer.... Processing temperature 15-25 C. Allow to dry one hour at room temperature. Then, heat for 30 to 60 minutes (160 C) in order to harden the paint layer..."

I could put the finished rad in the oven at 160 C, but id rather return the paints and get some metal ones . Luckily i haven't opened the bottles yet.
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