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Buying refurbed xbox, how can I keep it cool? - Page 4

post #31 of 54
Quote:
Originally Posted by mothrpe View Post

Hi Guys,
I'm trading in my psp 3000 and some ps3 games to gamestop to get one of their refurbished xbox 360 consoles. That said, they are not the slim models and I'm concerned about them overheating and getting the legendary rrod.
What are some cooling solutions and/or tips to ensure this doesn't happen?
Appreciate any feedback.

QmeVD.png

Drops RPM cuts temps in half and was originally intended by Microsoft, and yes i can back that claim up.
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post #32 of 54
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdoublejj View Post

QmeVD.png
Drops RPM cuts temps in half and was originally intended by Microsoft, and yes i can back that claim up.

Is it just the holes in the case?
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post #33 of 54
breath through a straw for while and only through the straw, get it? These to holes allow for massive increase of fresh for the cooling system to intake. not only does it give it air they are in exactly the righ location to do so that is why there is mesh there there was originally intended to be holes there for the heats sinks and ducting to pull fresh air from. For some reason they never molded the plastic with holes there.

I have done some testing with this, in games where the fans usually spin up to notable noise level and start to get hot, with this they maintain an acceptable noise level and don't get as warm. I also did a little air flow testing by blowing some smoke in to it. it immediately suck up any smoke near those holes and a few occasions shot the smoke right out the back (usually dissipates by then).

No volt mods, no extra heat sinks, no washers, no extra fans, no nothing less is more!
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post #34 of 54
Do you have any instructions or photos on where/how to make the cuts?
 
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post #35 of 54
Quote:
Originally Posted by M1nUrThr3t View Post

I'm guessing you havent played Halo Reach, you do NEED a HDD.

Aggh... I feel bad because I don't remember this... I played Reach a good bit, but totally forgot.. I haven't used my 360 in ages and currently am selling it.
    
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post #36 of 54
I'm on my second Xbox, its a slim one. The first one stayed at home when I left for college, it was the pro version from back in the day.

Basically it's only the first gen of 360s that had heat issues. Those are the arcade versions without hard drives and with a white dvd bezel. They also don't have an HDMI port. Stear clear of those and you'll be ok.

You have to give the xbox enough air around it, particularly in the back. Unless you're hell bent on putting it in some kind of cabinet or entertainment center with restricted air flow, I wouldn't recommend an "intercooler". It might help if you want to put it somewhere cramped though.

Also, gamestop buys your used stuff for one third of what they can sell it for at a used price. What that means is you can get more money virtually anywhere else. I'd recommend trying to sell stuff on ebay or somewhere other than gamestop.

Continuing my rant on gamestop, their refurbished 360s are $130 and up, depending on what comes with it. You won't save more than $50, and an extra $40-50 for a brand new current gen slim xbox with all the accessories is more than worth it if you ask me. If you want to go used, I think you should search elsewhere.

A final note: the xbox was prone to "ringing" the discs, or scratching a ring into the disc. This happens when you try to move the xbox with a disc in it then power it on. ALWAYS take your disc out before you move it, even if the xbox is powered off. The current gen slim ones still have the problem.
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post #37 of 54
If you're interested I'm trying to sell my xbox. I bought it as a refurb from gamestop almost a year ago and haven't had any RROD or any other problems. It's a Falcon model, 20GB HDD, 1 Wired controller, and Halo Reach.
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post #38 of 54
I used to do Xbox 360 system refurbishing professionally.

My tips for keeping an original-style 360 alive are:

- Don't put it in an entertainment center. It needs to be able to vent heat out of it.

- Do not use a Nyko Intercooler. It attaches to the rear of the system over the exhaust fan vents and claims to increase cooling by pulling more air through the factory fan. The older versions piggyback on the power cable and have been known to cause system damage.

- If you're okay with opening the system and voiding the warranty, you could do a preemptive X-Clamp Fix and 12V Fan mod, as well as straighten the system chassis.

The X-Clamp fix involves new thermal compound, and removing the spring-metal X-Clamps meant to put tension on the heatsinks and instead solidly bolting the heatsink through the motherboard and to the chassis. Instructions on the X-Clamp fix are widely available online. You'll need to make sure you have 3mm of washers between board and chassis and 2mm between heatsink and board.

The 12V fan mod involves either soldering a connection between two points on the board to disable fan speed ramping, or soldering the fan's power wires to the 12v+ contact where the power connector meets the board. Instructions are available online.

The chassis straightening is a technique I developed to reduce the amount of repair returns, and was very effective.

360undersidehighlighted.jpg

In this picture, the 8 screws that hold the X-Clamps and heatsinks to the chassis are circled in yellow, an the two central chassis lid screws are circled in red.
On every system I've worked on, the stamping on the chassis causes the two red-circled points to be 2-3mm taller than the rest of the chassis. This puts a constant warping pressure on the board between the CPU and GPU dies.
The two options available are to pound those flush with the rest of the chassis with a hammer, and still use the lid mount screws there, or to cut them off completely with a Dremel and not use those mount screws.

- The last secret trick is originally intended for a launch-series "Xenon" console, but can be adapted to later systems. The Xenon systems had a spot located behind the Ring of Light connector on the motherboard where a 3-pin fan header could be added. There is room between the CPU heatsink and the chassis to add a 60mm fan to the system lid, in the position where those holes were drilled into the system in previous pictures. If you were to do this on later systems, you would have to tap into the 12v+ connection on the power connector, as they removed the spot for the 3-pin header in later revisions. This modification will require removal of the metal static shield lid from the case top.

I did that mod on my personal system with an 80mm fan, because I couldn't source a 60mm locally. The 80mm required modification of the CPU heatsink to fit, but gave exceptional cooling.

This was a rough shot shortly after installation. I did end up finishing out the hole better.

myxbox-1.jpg
 
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post #39 of 54
Thread Starter 
Thank you guys for all your feedback!

Last night I went and got one, actually ended up getting a new Xbox 4gb Model and Halo Reach. Even though it's a new model I put it on a little stand by itself with all vents uncovered, little thing gets warm.

I'm really liking the system, I dig the small features lacking in my ps3 like being able to hook it up to my 1920x1080 pc monitor and the xbox upscaling all games to its native resolution.

And the loading times are really short I've found so far.
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post #40 of 54
Quote:
Originally Posted by mothrpe View Post

Thank you guys for all your feedback!
Last night I went and got one, actually ended up getting a new Xbox 4gb Model and Halo Reach. Even though it's a new model I put it on a little stand by itself with all vents uncovered, little thing gets warm.
I'm really liking the system, I dig the small features lacking in my ps3 like being able to hook it up to my 1920x1080 pc monitor and the xbox upscaling all games to its native resolution.
And the loading times are really short I've found so far.

yeah its a pretty good system. I got the slim myself and like it. It does get a bit warm but I havent had any issues.
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