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Nice kit? - Page 2

post #11 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by SilentStryke
Thanks everyone! But I have seen the light! I think I am going to go custom, seems like it will work out better in the end, although is 3/8 tubing really that bad? like in the stingray (also I do not want to drill holes, and the armor doesnt let u lay anything on top really)
You can do plenty to the top of that case, but not without the hack and slash. 3/8"ID can lower your flow quite a bit, but it has its place in the world of water...like if you are dealing with a small case. It all just depends
    
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post #12 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by SilentStryke
Thanks everyone! But I have seen the light! I think I am going to go custom, seems like it will work out better in the end, although is 3/8 tubing really that bad? like in the stingray (also I do not want to drill holes, and the armor doesnt let u lay anything on top really)

Oh, thank god. lol. Get an apogee block, and bigass tubing....biggest rad you can afford...

Dangerden d5 pump...
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post #13 of 35
While building your own watercooling from parts definatly has its advantages, I think people make kits out to be worse then they are. I have a Swiftech H20 120 Single Rad kit and my opteron running at 2.8 with 1.47 volts never crests 40 at load.
post #14 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by tubnotub1
While building your own watercooling from parts definatly has its advantages, I think people make kits out to be worse then they are. I have a Swiftech H20 120 Single Rad kit and my opteron running at 2.8 with 1.47 volts never crests 40 at load.
Your kit isn't a "kit". It is a Frankenstein of god parts…a monster that strikes fear into the heart of heat. When I think kit I think 80mm rad with fan that pushes 12CFM, a pump that gives 90lph with 3ft of head, and a water block that looks more fragile than those plastic ninja swords that you would always beg your parents for at the fair and destroy in an hour of beating the crap out of your best friend.
    
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post #15 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snerp
Your kit isn't a "kit". It is a Frankenstein of god parts…a monster that strikes fear into the heart of heat. When I think kit I think 80mm rad with fan that pushes 12CFM, a pump that gives 90lph with 3ft of head, and a water block that looks more fragile than those plastic ninja swords that you would always beg your parents for at the fair and destroy in an hour of beating the crap out of your best friend.
Spoken like a god...
    
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post #16 of 35
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Your kit isn't a "kit". It is a Frankenstein of god parts…a monster that strikes fear into the heart of heat. When I think kit I think 80mm rad with fan that pushes 12CFM, a pump that gives 90lph with 3ft of head, and a water block that looks more fragile than those plastic ninja swords that you would always beg your parents for at the fair and destroy in an hour of beating the crap out of your best friend.
Had to be the funniest thing i have read today, lmao
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post #17 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by SilentStryke
Thanks everyone! But I have seen the light! I think I am going to go custom, seems like it will work out better in the end, although is 3/8 tubing really that bad? like in the stingray (also I do not want to drill holes, and the armor doesnt let u lay anything on top really)
You wont regret it.....
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post #18 of 35
If you are really on a $200 budget the you cannot beat the Swiftech H20-120 premium for $195....You can then add the NB block for $30 and the VGA block for $44....

Hope this helps
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post #19 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtuccio
If you are really on a $200 budget the you cannot beat the Swiftech H20-120 premium for $195....You can then add the NB block for $30 and the VGA block for $44....

Hope this helps
NB blocks are about as useful as ram or HD blocks. They reduce flow and add heat to the loop for no increased overclock. The NB can be taken care of with a nice chipset cooler.
    
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post #20 of 35
I would disagree since system stabilty is very dependant on the NB. Yes it will add more heat to the loop, but if you have a sufficient radiator this heat can be delt with easily. I know on my P5B that I could not run a passive cooler at 3.7-3.8GHz with any stabilty until I went to water...Now my bridge doesn't go above 32C even at 1.65V.
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