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[Build Log] The Waterlogged Skeleton - Page 3

post #21 of 55
update please.
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post #22 of 55
Thread Starter 
There won't be any new news until I get Tiamat completed. I have the water base completed for my external radiator rig, but have not gotten to the supports. Will be a few weeks until I can get back to this one.
Edited by ScribbyDaGreat - 3/1/12 at 12:34pm
   
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post #23 of 55
Thread Starter 
Some teaser pics while I work on getting Tiamat leak free.

The pump and radiator tower base.
476

Base will be connected just under the slide out MOBO tray - fits perfect!
538

450

556

Radiator tower is in the works.
   
The Cavern
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post #24 of 55
applaud.gif

Updates!

Looking good smile.gif
post #25 of 55
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gr3nd3l View Post

applaud.gif
Updates!
Looking good smile.gif

Thank you! thumb.gif

Here are some pics of my new monitor for the work set up. You can read all about this here - CLICKY - I will say this is a GORGEOUS monitor and the price shipped to me was only $400! Check out the thread for all the details, but I highly recommend picking up one of these bad boys (I may get a second one for the office). I purchased mine from Dreamseller. There are other eBay sellers, he/she was awesome and I received the monitor in a week (from S. Korea - yea a week!) Again, have fun in the thread as there are over 1100 posts by now. I can answer some questions of my experience and monitor if you are interested as well.

Catleap 27" Monitor - straight outta South Korea! Bubble wrapped for your protection.
675

Normal boxing - everything looking good.
436

All the extras. Monitor comes with base (screws on easily), power brick and funky cord, DVI cable, and manual in Korean. As noted in the thread above, you simply need to use any standard 3 prong monitor plug to use the monitor since the power cable that is supplied is for European/Asian outlets.
417

700

The back of the monitor and inputs.
450

700

I currently have this bad boy running a custom refresh rate of 95 although I will probably back it down since I cannot tell the difference between say 75 and 95 for everyday use. I can bump it up when I play some games, but since I am using this as a work monitor the higher refresh is really not necessary.

Adding a few more pics of my screen and setup for you OCers out there!
538

Here's a crappy iPhone shot of the full screen.
450

You can definitely see the lean that others have mentioned in the monitor. Mine is off by about a 1/4" (slopes down to the right pretty clearly.) I have wall mounts coming tomorrow to mount this monitor along with its sister coming next week (and two other 22s.) I mounted one of the 22s this afternoon and will post a pic of them once they are up. The wall mounts are slick and not too pricey. I'll add some unboxing shots of the wall mounts as well. Cheers!

Edited by ScribbyDaGreat - 3/5/12 at 6:35pm
   
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The Cavern
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post #26 of 55
I was under the impression the Ctleap didn't have vesa mounts? What type of mount are you using for it, because I dislike the white ring around the other monitor being sold (forgot the name off the top of my head) and would prefer the much slicker look of the catleap.
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post #27 of 55
Thread Starter 

I really didn't like the stand on the Catleap monitor and knew I needed to change that up in a hurry so I went ahead and purchased some wall mounts. I plan on having two of these mounted one on top of the other with 2 22" on each side. Below is a step-by-step (or there about!) of how to remove the bezel, stand, and rear silver arc.

First, remove the 8 screws around the outside of the monitor (not shown - pretty obvious.) Next, you need to find a location that is separating easily - mine was right next to the power, brightness, volume buttons. While separating the two bezels gently pry the pieces apart with a flat blade screw driver. Don't be rough! As long as you are applying enough pressure on the bezel with your hand the screw driver will easily pop the little clips. Continue around the bezel the same way - separate and pop. You will notice that it is best to pry the bezel apart at the very point where the two pieces do not want to separate easily - this is a tab.
450

Once you have the outside bezel removed, turn the monitor over and you will see 4 silver screws around the outside corners. Remove these.
700

SORRY FOR THE CRAPPY PIC!! Once you have the 4 screws removed tilt the screen up and you will find it plugged in at 3 locations. Simply unclip each one and the monitor is free from the housing. The top two clips require you to press the edges of the clip inward for them to be removed. The bottom one (white cabling) is like a PSU tab - lift and the lines will separate.
700

With the monitor out this is what you see. The four boxes are the screws you need to cleanly remove the silver arc piece. I didn't! See below.
450

Here are the top screws for the silver arc.
450

Here is the bottom of the back panel and the mount for the stand. Remove the red box screws to release the silver arc. The green box screws hold the stand in place.
381

Here is the bottom connector for the silver arc - see how these pieces are broken? I thought you could simply pull the arc off - ummm, no, you can't.
450

Here is a shot of one side of the stand mount. You could remove the two nuts holding the stand to the swivel mount if you want. These are 10mm nuts. I was going to go this route but found it really tight in there to get a 10mm anything to get the nut free so I just removed the whole bracket (saves a few ounces in weight!) Remove these screws - and two not pictured - to release the stand bracket.
450

Here is the back with the stand bracket removed. Re-insert screws here for the panel hold down.
450

Here is the stand and bracket removed as one piece. As you can see it is held in place with a total of 6 screws.
450

Here are some pics of my wall mount solution - look China and South Korea working together to bring me awesome video!
450

This is an up close of my wall mount and the power brick mounted to the wall with velcro.
450

567

Finally, some shots with the monitor mounted - both off and on. Enjoy!
450

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I will post some final pics once I get all four monitors in place. Looking like I will finish up Tiamat this week so this bad boy will get some real progress next week! Can't wait!! thumb.gif

Edited by ScribbyDaGreat - 3/6/12 at 10:25am
   
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The Cavern
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post #28 of 55
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by votum View Post

I was under the impression the Ctleap didn't have vesa mounts? What type of mount are you using for it, because I dislike the white ring around the other monitor being sold (forgot the name off the top of my head) and would prefer the much slicker look of the catleap.

It does have the mount - see above. The mounting holes are standard 3" square.

Here is a pic of the mount I am using.
450

Here is the link to where I purchased it - CLICKY


Edited by ScribbyDaGreat - 3/6/12 at 10:08am
   
The Cavern
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The Cavern
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post #29 of 55
Scribby:

Appreciate the step-by-step, thanks!

As for the work involved, now that you've done it if you had to go back again would you still have ordered the Catleap - or instead picked up the Shimian version?

I don't like the stock stands on either, so from what I can tell the Shimian has the easiest out-of-box support for changing mounting. What are your thoughts?
post #30 of 55
Very interesting build... Keep up the good work. thumb.gif I look forward to more updates.
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XSPC LCD Temperature Sensor - blue/white EK R4BE Monoblock w/matte black vinyl insert EK Supremacy Titan GPU blocks Clean CSQ - Nicke... Alphacool 360 Monsta Radiator 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Alphacool 240 Monsta Radiator Windows 7 LG 32LM6200 3D HDTV Corsair K70 Brown Switch RGB Cherry MX 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Rosewill Lightning 1300w  CaseLabs ST10 Generic  EGVA GTX590 
Audio
Soundblaster X-Fi 
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My Sacrafice
(22 items)
 
The Liquidator
(33 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i7-3960x ASUS Rampage 4 Extreme EVGA GTX 590 Classified Hydro Copper Corsair Vengeance 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
Seagate ASUS 12x Internal Blu-Ray Burner Sata Magic Cin... Black Ice Radiators EK Electroless Nickle Acrylic RIVE blocks 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK Electroless Nickel Acrylic CPU block Monsoon Black Chrome 1/2" ID 3/4" OD Compressio... Danger Den Clear UV Reactive Tubing Enermax Blue LED Lightning Cooling Fans x11 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Primochill Purple Non Conductive Coolant EK Thermal Grease Alphacool Repack Dual Bay Reservoir Windows 7 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
LG 32LM6200  Razor Marauder Starcraft II Rosewill Lightning 1300W Antec Eleven Hundred 
Mouse PadAudio
EVGA GTX 590 Mouse Pad Creative Labs Sound Blaster X-Fi 
MotherboardGraphicsRAMHard Drive
ASUS Rampage 4 Black Edition EVGA GTX Titan Corsair Dominator Platinum Corsair  
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCooling
Samsung 840 evo  Western Digital Black Matte black C47 & C48 Bitspower Fittings (30x) Alphacool D5 pumps  
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Alphacool D5 Clear Acrylic pump tops  Primochill Vortex Flow Indicators - Clear Plexi  Monsoon Acrylic Tubing Reamer Monsoon 13mm Hardline Pro Mandrel Tool Kit 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Monsoon Silicone Tubing for Acrylic Bending (2ft) E22 Acrylic Tubing 36" x 6 Bitspower Mini Valve 90 Degree Rotary Fittings  
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
FrozenQ FlexTank Multi-optional Reservoir Bitspower Low Profile Stop Fittings Bitspower Case Top Water Fill Port Koolance G1/4 Threaded funnel 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
XSPC LCD Temperature Sensor - blue/white EK R4BE Monoblock w/matte black vinyl insert EK Supremacy Titan GPU blocks Clean CSQ - Nicke... Alphacool 360 Monsta Radiator 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Alphacool 240 Monsta Radiator Windows 7 LG 32LM6200 3D HDTV Corsair K70 Brown Switch RGB Cherry MX 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Rosewill Lightning 1300w  CaseLabs ST10 Generic  EGVA GTX590 
Audio
Soundblaster X-Fi 
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Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Build Logs › [Build Log] The Waterlogged Skeleton