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[Official] NVIDIA GPU Mod Club - AKA "The Mod" - Page 111

post #1101 of 8626
A second hand 580 is a good option IMO. If you still have the itch to try this then this mod brings about even greater gain with a card of higher TDP like the 580. I don't know if the 7850 would be a good upgrade from the 560ti as it looks to be less than 10% better, so I would look for a 7870 as the minimum to bring a considerable upgrade.
Edited by juano - 4/27/12 at 10:47am
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post #1102 of 8626
A 7850 at 1200/5800 would be quicker than my clocked 560 Ti, but as you say it might not be that big a difference.

Whereas a 2nd hand 580 would hopefully have a bit of headroom in it. Luck of the draw really I guess smile.gif

Thanks for the help. If I mod either card I'll be sure to post pics thumb.gif
post #1103 of 8626
Evening chaps,

So i spent the evening lapping my cooler and reapplying the TIM / bracket etc to make sure it sat totally flush with the GPU...Result? Exactly the same at the moment :S 26c idle and 63c load for a 1ghz core. If i run stock clocks i only get 53c or less but with a 950mhz or 1000mhz core clock its about 63c under load. My direct CU cooler used to reach around 73c so its a good 10c off load temps and of course much quieter. I was hoping to see lower temps if im honest but my guess is its because i am now using my radiator as exhaust in the back as thats the only change ive made. Worth trying as an intake?? Pump is definatly running at 100% as i have tried a few molex adaptors and tried it on motherboard header at 100% too.

Im a little dissapointed, i thought lapping it would improve things but it seems it hasnt made any difference. Im confident i have applied the block flush and used the correct amount of tim and didnt twist the pump this time. When i looked flush with the GPU and block, they looked to be 100% touching from all sides in the day light.

Here are a few pcs from tonight:

I cut the plastic slots out of my top mesh panel as i was told it stops some of the noise from the top fans...gets rid of a little bit of the noise but not as much as i had hoped for my new H100 on my CPU.

640

Lapped my 620 using 400 grit followed by 2000 grit wet and dry:

640

This is how much TIM i used. Its IC Diamond 7:

640

Cravinmild has a very simular card to me and much much better temps, not sure whats going on frown.gif
Edited by Darylrese - 4/27/12 at 12:31pm
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post #1104 of 8626
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darylrese View Post

640(

Hey ... does the top mesh panel stills nap/fit in to place okay now that you trimmed that plastic frame? I was thinking of doing the same thing because I have fan filters on my two top push fans and that plastic frame hits the filters, preventing me from snapping it shut.

Also...I don't think that plastic framework is the source of your noise; I promise you it's the steel mesh and the air passing through that. If you ever dis assemble your case completely, find some way to cut that steel mesh out. A little high speed saw or a quality dremel blade is the most effiecient:

450

...

I used a little high powered pneumatic saw, went through the metal like butter.

MAJOR reduction in sound and much better air flow too.

But you def want to wait till you have your case torn apart so that you can clean it up afterward; metal shavings dancing about your motherboard is a FAIL scenario for sure. LOL ...

I was thinking about lapping my 620 but decided not too. I think a better temp reduction would be had from direct die mounting but I'm not going to do that, either. Don't game enough to warrant it and I'm okay with 60ish load temps.
    
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post #1105 of 8626
Hey everyone. I'd like to be added to the club. I'm not sure if I posted any pictures previously, so here's a more updated picture.

400

Here are some screenshots at idle and load.

ambient: 21°C
idle: 33°C
338

load: 65°C
This was after MSI kombustor's GPU burn-In test. Not as low as I'd like, but still very good considering the relatively little noise.
338

Would adding a second fan help much at all?
Edited by ROM3000 - 4/27/12 at 12:48pm
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post #1106 of 8626
cutting the plastic slats out, everything still fits perfectly fine mate.

Yes i have no doubts its the metal mesh thats causing the most noise. However, I dont have a tool to do it. I think my girlfriends step dad has a dremel i can borrow but its a job and a half to strip out the whole computer and start again! Is it worth it for the noise reduction? I can hear like a high pitched whering noise and its going straight through my head.

Do you guys think my temps for the 'mod' are acceptable now?

Stock clocks 26c idle, 53c load

1ghz core, 2000mhz shader and 2154 memory, 1.175v idle temp 26c, 63c load
Edited by Darylrese - 4/27/12 at 1:08pm
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post #1107 of 8626
I wouldn't say the change from cutting out the hex grilles will be an OMG difference but it should be noticeable, and more noticeable depending on how much airflow you have going through it. You can cut it with just some regular decent sized wire cutters. It also has the benefit of making much less of a mess so you can probably do it with the machine still assembled, I would at least tilt the case so that the top is on the side or even better the bottom, so if there is any debris gravity won't take them into your motherboard.
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post #1108 of 8626
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darylrese View Post

cutting the plastic slats out, everything still fits perfectly fine mate.
Yes i have no doubts its the metal mesh thats causing the most noise. However, I dont have a tool to do it. I think my girlfriends step dad has a dremel i can borrow but its a job and a half to strip out the whole computer and start again! Is it worth it for the noise reduction? I can hear like a high pitched whering noise and its going straight through my head.
Do you guys think my temps for the 'mod' are acceptable now?
Stock clocks 26c idle, 53c load
1ghz core, 2000mhz shader and 2154 memory, 1.175v idle temp 26c, 63c load

Just wait till you have to take your case apart.

Or, if your OCD like me, it will keep you up for several nights in a row until you go mad with the need to do it and you'll then spend three sleepless days dismantling everything, cutting out the metal grill and then putting it all back together. LOL ...

I'm a silence F R E A K. I don't *ever* want to hear my computer, EVER. LOL ... mostly cause I've spent about 5K dollars on desktop valve tube headphone amps and DACs and listen through incredibly refined and open backed Grado GS1000's (my machine is an audiophile music server first, a video/image editing workstation second and a gaming platform third ... so even the faintest of "whirs" or "whooshes" are unacceptable.

Happily, even when gaming or rendering vids, I never need to run the H100 at audible levels and nor do I need to crank the 620 fan up beyond silent operation...my machine now, with the H100 and 620 (for the GTX580), running at 5ghz, is one HELL of a lot more silent than my previous Q6700/TRUE (at 3.8ghz) air cooled set up was. The TRUE worked fantastic, but no way could I run a good overclock while keeping it at silent settings. These affordable little closed loop liquid kits are pretty pimp if you know how to use them, I think. I've actually got a second H100, lapped and ready to go that I'm going to port over to my old Q6700 rig once I get a new case for it...

But the steel case mesh is bothersome for sure. It wasn't the noise associated with it so much as the fact that it seriously impeded air efficiency that got to me. With that much better air flow, I can run my PUSH/PULL H100 fans so freaky slow that it's not even funny. I have to use LED fans so I'll be able to tell if they are running or not. LOL ...

Another thing you can do if you find a decent pair of snips to trim out the metal with is duct tape some sort of plastic bag type bubble on the inside of your case, completely sealed, so that any metal shavings will be caught in it instead of falling down amongst your components. Just a thought ...

But yeah, I think you'd be stoked on the sonic/silence gains for trimming out the metal.

Best of luck (do it!) ... ;-)
    
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post #1109 of 8626
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darylrese View Post

Stock clocks 26c idle, 53c load
1ghz core, 2000mhz shader and 2154 memory, 1.175v idle temp 26c, 63c load

oH yeah ...

I think those temps are great. Just consider ... MANY folk are out there running in the low to mid 90's and not worrying about it. So 60ish? Shiza ... that's gravy, mate.
    
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post #1110 of 8626
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xinoxide View Post

Just ordered this kit:
500
Think those ramsinks will fit under Dwoods bracket with fan mount?

Those are awesome. I have that kit on my 470, works like a charm. I'm comfortably running 800mhz/1700mhz @ 1.087v, everything stays cool cool.gif
     
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