Overclock.net › Forums › Graphics Cards › NVIDIA › NVIDIA Cooling › [Official] NVIDIA GPU Mod Club - AKA "The Mod"
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

[Official] NVIDIA GPU Mod Club - AKA "The Mod" - Page 154

post #1531 of 8626
Has a consensus developed on how to keep the VRMs cool? Do you guys use thermal pads and heat sinks? Just a fan? How are you mounting your fans? I've read the thread and seen lots of posts, but I'm curious if there has been a sort of optimal configuration established
post #1532 of 8626
Direct airflow is enough for most cards, but I'd leave a stock heat plate (seen on some models) installed or add aluminum/copper heatsinks, myself.
    
CPUGraphicsRAMHard Drive
Intel Core i7 6700HQ nVidia GTX 965m 16GB DDR4-2133 120GB M.2.SSD 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
480GB Crucial M500 Windows 10 Pro Dell Ultrasharp u2713hm Corsair Vengeance K70 
MouseAudio
Logitech G600 Creative T20 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUGraphicsRAMHard Drive
Intel Core i7 6700HQ nVidia GTX 965m 16GB DDR4-2133 120GB M.2.SSD 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
480GB Crucial M500 Windows 10 Pro Dell Ultrasharp u2713hm Corsair Vengeance K70 
MouseAudio
Logitech G600 Creative T20 
  hide details  
Reply
post #1533 of 8626
I left my stock plate on and the blower fan running.
Photo Editor
(21 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 5820k Asus X99-Deluxe Galax GTX 970 HOF Crucial Ballistix Sport 32GB DDR4 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Samsung 950 Pro 512 GB Intel 750 400GB Samsung 840 Pro Samsung 840 EVO 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
HGST 3TB 7200RPM 64MB  LG BLu Ray Swiftech H240-X Windows 10 
MonitorMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Dell U2415 Dell U2415 Dell U2415 Ducky Shine 3 MX Blue White LED 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Corsair HX750 Phanteks Enthoo Luxe RAT 7 Audio Engine A5+ 
Audio
Audio Engine D1 
  hide details  
Reply
Photo Editor
(21 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 5820k Asus X99-Deluxe Galax GTX 970 HOF Crucial Ballistix Sport 32GB DDR4 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Samsung 950 Pro 512 GB Intel 750 400GB Samsung 840 Pro Samsung 840 EVO 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
HGST 3TB 7200RPM 64MB  LG BLu Ray Swiftech H240-X Windows 10 
MonitorMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Dell U2415 Dell U2415 Dell U2415 Ducky Shine 3 MX Blue White LED 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Corsair HX750 Phanteks Enthoo Luxe RAT 7 Audio Engine A5+ 
Audio
Audio Engine D1 
  hide details  
Reply
post #1534 of 8626
can't wait to try this! just waiting on the parts atm.
"cookie cutter"
(11 items)
 
Old timer
(11 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q6600 @ 3.0Ghz MSI P35 Neo2-FIR Zotac 8800GT 512MB 4GB Corsair XMS2 DDR2 800Mhz CL5 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
1TB Samsung HD103LJ Stock Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit Samsung 2232BW 
PowerCaseMouse
Corsair CX430W Antec Nine Hundred Logitech G5v1 
  hide details  
Reply
"cookie cutter"
(11 items)
 
Old timer
(11 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q6600 @ 3.0Ghz MSI P35 Neo2-FIR Zotac 8800GT 512MB 4GB Corsair XMS2 DDR2 800Mhz CL5 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
1TB Samsung HD103LJ Stock Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit Samsung 2232BW 
PowerCaseMouse
Corsair CX430W Antec Nine Hundred Logitech G5v1 
  hide details  
Reply
post #1535 of 8626
I posted a new thread with this information but i got no answers ill post my case here maybe someone can help me out.



Ok so here it goes ..

When I first received my card it was ok a 465 that could unlock to a 470 so yeah great I started to play with the card and noticed that my card needed 1.025mv to stay stable on gtx 470 speeds not the best of all but hey I was getting better performance in the first place.

Then I decided to overclock the card and from 1.087mv I could squeeze 775 on the core I really don't remember well bc I decided to keep it in stock settings until I needed to overclock.

A few years passed by and I started artifacting on stock speeds with 1.025mv so I upped the voltage and was ok .... Now I have decided its time to overclock and get the most out of the card I even did the mod with an antec 620 to help with the temps but no matter what I do the card does not pass the 700 on the core..... I know even the worst 470 can pull this off even at 1087 ...

So is there something I can do to help my card ??? Or is it time to upgrade ???? Maybe an RMA ????. I really don't know what to do anymore

Thanks for the time and hoping to hear your suggestions
X99 Hackintosh
(12 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 5820k @ 4.6 Asus X99 Deluxe Gtx 980's in SLI 32GB Corsair DDR4 @ 3000 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingMonitor
SanDisk Extreme PRO 480GB Samsung 830 Pro with OSX Custom Loop  Dell Ultrawide U3415W 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G710 Evga G1300 Phanteks Enthoo Primo Logitech G502 
  hide details  
Reply
X99 Hackintosh
(12 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 5820k @ 4.6 Asus X99 Deluxe Gtx 980's in SLI 32GB Corsair DDR4 @ 3000 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingMonitor
SanDisk Extreme PRO 480GB Samsung 830 Pro with OSX Custom Loop  Dell Ultrawide U3415W 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G710 Evga G1300 Phanteks Enthoo Primo Logitech G502 
  hide details  
Reply
post #1536 of 8626
Quote:
Originally Posted by shremi View Post

So is there something I can do to help my card ??? Or is it time to upgrade ???? Maybe an RMA ????. I really don't know what to do anymore
Thanks for the time and hoping to hear your suggestions

Well the card is technically a GTX 465. Most likely the 470 parts are pretty bad so I would not expect an RMA for a new GTX 465 to do anything. Most likely the new 465 will not be unlockable to a 470.

Upgrade.

Edit/// probably will send you a GTX550ti as a replacement. Be lucky to get a GTX560ti though
Rig 2.0
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 3770k Asus P8Z77-V EVGA GTX780 SC ACX Samsung DDR 3 (2 DIMMS) MV-3V4G3D/US 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Samsung 830 SSD WD Caviar Black Asus DVD/RW Xigmatek s-1283 HDT (Air Cooling) 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
Scythe Slipstream 1200RPM (x2) Antec 140mm + Antec 120mm + Xigmatek 120mm (x2) Win 7 64bit Acer S243HL bmii - 24" 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Corsair TX750 Corsair Carbide 300R MX 518 Auzentek X-Fi Forte 7.1 
  hide details  
Reply
Rig 2.0
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 3770k Asus P8Z77-V EVGA GTX780 SC ACX Samsung DDR 3 (2 DIMMS) MV-3V4G3D/US 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Samsung 830 SSD WD Caviar Black Asus DVD/RW Xigmatek s-1283 HDT (Air Cooling) 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
Scythe Slipstream 1200RPM (x2) Antec 140mm + Antec 120mm + Xigmatek 120mm (x2) Win 7 64bit Acer S243HL bmii - 24" 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Corsair TX750 Corsair Carbide 300R MX 518 Auzentek X-Fi Forte 7.1 
  hide details  
Reply
post #1537 of 8626
Try downgrading the card back to the original bios. If it doesn't work , RMA, use the new one, or sell it for more moneh!
Your decision.
post #1538 of 8626
Quote:
Originally Posted by squick3n View Post

Has a consensus developed on how to keep the VRMs cool? Do you guys use thermal pads and heat sinks? Just a fan? How are you mounting your fans? I've read the thread and seen lots of posts, but I'm curious if there has been a sort of optimal configuration established

Consensus? With whom?

I left the stock heat plate on my two EVGA 560TIs. It has a large surface area, but it still needs air flow to carry away the heat from the plate. With it on, I don't have to worry about getting airflow over every hot chip. I added 8 VRAM heat sinks to the plate and it caught enough air to drop the plates temp 8c . The plate is now 40c during benchmarking.

I went cheap and easy on the fans for my two cards.. I use two 120mm fans because of the mounting hole placements. One 120mm side panel fan blowing on the cards would be enough.
PappyBogus
(0 items)
  
Reply
PappyBogus
(0 items)
  
Reply
post #1539 of 8626
Squick, in essence your trying to replicate stock cooling as this is what the vender deemed as nessassary. When possable try to retain all stock cooling plates as a miniumum. The cards had a fan blowing down onto the pcb so your going to need to get some air moving across the pcb to replicate stock. If you need to remove the stock fan then you will need to replace that airflow to the pcb some other way. Many are able to retain stock fans/shroud, this is desirable.... and cheapest. Dwood has a bracket which allows for a fan if your unable to retain the fan that came with the gpu. From what i understand Dwood is also in the process of fabricating something for users to retain the shroud and this may make all this pcb/vrm cooling issues a thing of the past WOOT.

I ran my 560ti for a long while with no airflow to the pcb, only kept the unisink AND i had the shroud attached, no issues for me, card still works fine. My case a good air flow and im sure that helped. I was willing to accept the risks of running my card this way.... are you wink.gif

Best advice is to mimic stock cooling, this at the very least will keep the card safe..er, mods are mods so also keep that in mind.

6015466429_1d474be5b3_b.jpg
_IGP9528 by cravinmild, on Flickr

as you can see here, no fan at all. Anything do over and above stock will only server you better.
post #1540 of 8626
Guys. A bit of an update on the mod on my EVGA 560 GTX.

I had a power supply failure yesterday. I keep a spare PS around so I was able to quickly get the computer back up. I hopped into Dayz and the computer crashed. Upon reboot I opened up HW monitor and noticed my idle temps were up 10c in the low 40c range. Booting up Dayz again I saw temps quickly rise to 80c. Much much higher than the 54-56c range I normally see on load. I opened SC2 as it isn't particular taxing on the GPU and saw temps rise to 90c.

Reinstalling the factory cooler got me back to 70c on full load so I'm running that for now. My assumption is that when I installed the new PS I somehow tweaked the positioning of the cooling block on the GPU. Given I run an mATX case the tight area makes component swaps difficult. I've seen this issue before, and while the zip ties seem to be tight, removing the whole setup and installing new ties seems to be the only way to get temps back down. (I've done this twice since the original build some 6+ months back)

Back when I first performed the mod there were talk of antec adapters, but dwood wasn't on the scene and the corsair adapters weren't in existence. I ordered an adapter from dwood yesterday and hope this resolves my issues long term. From my experience if you use the zip tie method you can assume some loss of tension as the zip ties go through heat cycles, much in the same way a tennis racquet loses tension over time. Also, I'm thinking the square shape of the cooling block on the current corsair versions exacerbate the issue. Something to think for those of you using zip ties for this mod...
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: NVIDIA Cooling
Overclock.net › Forums › Graphics Cards › NVIDIA › NVIDIA Cooling › [Official] NVIDIA GPU Mod Club - AKA "The Mod"