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[Official] NVIDIA GPU Mod Club - AKA "The Mod" - Page 162

post #1611 of 8622
i got Dwood's Bracket, but isn't mounted at now.

i think i can get the VRM stock plate and use Dwood Bracket together


i have 1.5gb too, and yeah, it's very loud while gamming
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post #1612 of 8622
Quote:
Originally Posted by raygos View Post

Can't take a photo right now because the gpu is back in the case and being used (as i type). Just a heads up really for those that have the Palit GTX 580 1.5GB and was thinking of doing the cooling mod. A modded bracket of any kind would simply not work, there is no way to place any water cooling kit like the antec or corsair that some have used onto the 580 ihs/chip, those screw mounts are in the way and would gave to be removed somehow. Second problem, if you were to remove the black cooling plate that covers the vrm's etc you would need to find the right sized heatsink to cover them all, take a look at the photo and notice the size of the light green thermal pad that covers the vrm's. plus, where do you mount a fan to blow over the heatsink (if you could find one that is smile.gif)?. Using the Palit cooling plate and the custom Palit heatsink in place the third problem is finding a way of mounting fans to the Palit heatsink. It's a tricky one, not impossible (i'm sure) but not as easy as with a reference nvidia GTX580. palit make custom pcb's and custom cooling units. I doubt a water block would even fit the Palit GTX 580 1.5GB.
Still, i might come up with something?. Not really concerned with heat issues from the GTX 580 (Palit have done a decent job here) but the noise at full load from the Palit custom fans in the shroud drives me bonkers hahaha!. I may find a way of making a custom home made fan bracket of some sort?.
Dwood makes cooler brackets that also mount a 92mm fan, and you could just buy some glue on heat sinks if you really wanted.
post #1613 of 8622
Quote:
Originally Posted by claes View Post

Can we get a picture of the PCB and heatplate at an angle to get an idea of how high those things are?t.
Palit GTX 580.

77968219.jpg
91380645.jpg
86826273.jpg
64342852.jpg


35322948.jpg
10062164.jpg
post #1614 of 8622
Quote:
Originally Posted by Art Vanelay View Post

Dwood makes cooler brackets that also mount a 92mm fan, and you could just buy some glue on heat sinks if you really wanted.
80mm fans would fit snug direct on the heatsink, just going to check out the lowest dba.
post #1615 of 8622
Quote:
Originally Posted by raygos View Post

Palit GTX 580. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
77968219.jpg
91380645.jpg
86826273.jpg
64342852.jpg
35322948.jpg
10062164.jpg

hummm very bad news for me too.

is it possible to get off those things?

Please Raygos, can you give me the distance between Mosfets (marked with red line)

450
Edited by darivo - 6/20/12 at 11:33am
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post #1616 of 8622
dremel time smile.gif

Edit: I can't really see on the pic from the bottom, but are those mounts threaded underneath? You might just be able to stick a slightly larger screw in really tight and twist it out from the top by hand while you're unscrewing the larger screw from bottom. Hope that sentence made sense.
Edited by claes - 6/20/12 at 11:29am
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post #1617 of 8622
Sorry for the double post, but I sort of find myself in a precarious position being a poor college student.

Could anyone who has used the stock fan and heatplate for their VRMs comment on how quiet it is (GTX 470 ideally)? Is the fan effective enough to bench at <40% or so without tripping a sensor?

I ask because I ordered some Noctua 92mms over the weekend, thinking it'd be the best solution for the airflow in my FT02 and getting closer to silent. This seems like the best option as the fan will almost certainly be quieter than the stock fan at >45%, even at 100%. However, it would require a lot of modification to the shroud and I haven't read anything about how effective a 92mm fan is with the VRMs.

So, basically, in an ideal world I would order two sets of brackets, two without fan attachment and two with, and see which cools better and which is quieter. But, barring money and time this isn't a real possibility. Which way do you guys think is the better route?

Or would one of you like to buy me one of those sets so I can do some testing and post here? I'll pay for the other set biggrin.gif

Other concern you aren't concerned about: the noctua's pushing too much air and hurting positive pressure. Likely?
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post #1618 of 8622
Quote:
Originally Posted by darivo View Post

hummm very bad news for me too.
is it possible to get off those things?
Please Raygos, can you give me the distance between Mosfets (marked with red line)
450

It's possible yeah, but not something i would want to do right now, have slightly tried to tap them out but they did not budge at all, probably best using a vice/vise something strong to grip with.

22358483.jpg
52221284.jpg
post #1619 of 8622
Quote:
Originally Posted by raygos View Post

It's possible yeah, but not something i would want to do right now, have slightly tried to tap them out but they did not budge at all, probably best using a vice/vise something strong to grip with. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
22358483.jpg
52221284.jpg

Thank you very much mate.

im thinking to buy some enzotech heatsinks, but there are 22 VRM chips + 6 little (i don't know what is, but it was attached to thermal tape)

too much money to spend... :-(

do you know about compatible plate with this card (same pcb than phantom gainward)

something like this, but compatible
http://www.swiftech.com/gtx580-hs.aspx

+rep for you
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post #1620 of 8622
Quote:
Originally Posted by raygos View Post

It's possible yeah, but not something i would want to do right now, have slightly tried to tap them out but they did not budge at all, probably best using a vice/vise something strong to grip with.

IMHO: Those standoffs are pressed in by a hydrolic press. The star pattern on the bottom ends means they won't twist out and it increases the friction surface area (bite).
1. You might try knocking them out, but you could bend or crack one. You will need good solid backing with a hole large enough for the standoff.
2 . You might be able to pull it out from the rear with a bolt, but could crack the bolt.. IE, use a bolt to back it out, and a washer/nut large enough to let it pass thru. Plate Bottom->Washer->bolt->twist.
3. Heating the plate could help as holes get larger when an object is heated. But they are not the same metal, Hmm which expands more?
4. Dremel tool could cut them down, but that won't give you a tie wrap hole.
5. You could drill them out.

VRM Heatsink - Maybe DigiKey has a heatsink just the right size for you.
Think out side the box, make your own. The plate is just a large flat piece of aluminum in that section. Add the tape and some VRAM heatsinks to it.
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