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[Official] NVIDIA GPU Mod Club - AKA "The Mod" - Page 22

post #211 of 8626
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beetlebum View Post

So, my own mod. A ASUS GTX 560 Ti TOP water cooled with an Antec 620. A bit different solution as to fixating the cooling block to the GPU.
Works like a charm. Full log here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1213732/a-water-cooled-gtx560-ti-top
Semi-finished product:
450

JUST PLAIN AWSOME! I love how you have made your own custom cooling solution which looks quite professional! How did you fix the plate to your card? It looks much better than a bunch of white cable ties!
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post #212 of 8626
Thread Starter 
Congrats to TheBirdman74 and Chuckclc for taking the risk and jumping in! thumb.gif
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post #213 of 8626
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rage19420 View Post

Congrats to TheBirdman74 and Chuckclc for taking the risk and jumping in! thumb.gif

You bet! One of the best things I have ever done!
post #214 of 8626
This mod is great as proven by tempertures and benchmarks, I'm just not so sure on the asthetics. Im loving seeing these faceplates and brackets being fabricated for that stock look, i think its important if you have a side window and like to have a neat and tidy setup. I guess if you dont have a side window it really doesnt matter. For me looks are just as important as functionality. I don't want a fan cable tied to the side of my £400 graphics card or a pump held on by white cable ties. I look forward to seeing more ideas of custom made coolers and brackets smile.gif

If i was to attempt this mod i think i would have to design a plastic shroud that mounts to the PCB, make a recess for the pump, braid the water hoses and mount a stock cooling fan on to cool the VRM's. Simular to Beetlebum but with sides to the shroud like a stock reference design.

This mod has only just taken off so it will be great to see how far people go with this!
Edited by Darylrese - 2/24/12 at 4:05am
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post #215 of 8626
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darylrese View Post

This mod is great as proven by tempertures and benchmarks, I'm just not so sure on the asthetics. Im loving seeing these faceplates and brackets being fabricated for that stock look, i think its important if you have a side window and like to have a neat and tidy setup. I guess if you dont have a side window it really doesnt matter. For me looks are just as important as functionality. I don't want a fan cable tied to the side of my £400 graphics card or a pump helf on by white cable ties. I look forward to seeing more ideas of custom made coolers and brackets smile.gif

You sir, may be a genius. I think, I think, I can put back on my shroud on my Galaxy card since I have removed the heat sink. That way I will have a fan for the mosfets and memory chips for the card I am water cooling, and it will almost look original. I will try this later. After I sleep, wake up and do stuff. If I can wait that long! Darn you for giving me the idea!
post #216 of 8626
if theres enough clearence and your orignial shroud doesnt screw into the air heatsink you should be able to reattach it mate.

The asus direct cuii screws directly into the air heatsink so the shroud cant be attached without it. You can however make your own! it cant be too hard with some plastic and a moulding machine.

This is my idea on paper....just need to find out how it can be attached. The orginial attachment points could be used if the design of the new shroud also allows for this. It has kind of been done by stumblebum but only a top plate rather than a whole custom made shroud. Also air vent holes could be added in the sides for warm air from the VRAM's to escape. hmmmm

356

Also if you make your own custom shroud, your not modding or damaging the original so when you come to sell it you can just pop the stock cooler back on smile.gif
I'd imagine all you would need is a sheet of plastic, the stock fan that came with your graphics card, some screws / nuts and bolts and a jigsaw / hole cutter.
Edited by Darylrese - 2/24/12 at 6:29am
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post #217 of 8626
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beetlebum View Post

So, my own mod. A ASUS GTX 560 Ti TOP water cooled with an Antec 620. A bit different solution as to fixating the cooling block to the GPU.
Works like a charm. Full log here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1213732/a-water-cooled-gtx560-ti-top
Semi-finished product:
http://www.overclock.net/image/id/1882498/width/600/height/450

Great idea and implementation!
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post #218 of 8626
In the Asus ROG forums under NVIDIA cards the is a nice watercooled matrix the uploader has posted pics to. Simple stupid method to keep the shroud, used wire and u can't tell.
post #219 of 8626
Just thought I'd add that since my last post, I've successfully removed the IHS, correctly lapped the 620, and strapped it right to the die. Here are the results:

gpustresstest.jpggpustresstestpostIHSremoval.jpg
On the left: Pre IHS Removal (incorrect 620 lapping)
On the right: Post IHS Removal (correct 620 lapping)

GPU 1 has the Antec 620
GPU 2 has a Scythe Setsugen 2 aftermarket air cooler

Please pay attention the the max temps only, as they represent the peaks that were sustained while under heavy load.

While the most recent test was only ran for 15 minutes, I'm pretty sure that was a sufficient time to get the cards as hot as they were probably going to get. An hour and 29 minutes was probably excessive the first time.

It's important to note that both the gpu and the pcb temperature post IHS removal were both 7 degrees lower. I would put that in the "substantial" category, when it comes to shaving a few degrees off of your graphics card. However, it's interesting the gpu 2 (the one with the scythe setsugen 2 aftermarket air cooler) actually reached one degree higher than it did in the previous test that was ran roughly 6 times as long. The only thing I can attribute this change to is the fact that I recently replaced the intake fan with a "silent" version, which still moves plenty of air, but doesn't have quite the same CFM that my last fan did.

For those of you reporting "load temps", what exactly are you doing to get those temps?

I would suggest that everyone run furmark in their native resolution with dynamic background, burn-in, xtreme burn-in, and post fx checked, and clicking "BURN-IN test" and running for at least 15 minutes to get true peak temps.

I found that my peak temps were quite higher than what others here are reporting, but I think the issue is how these temps are being ascertained, and not necessarily a problem with my setup specifically. I would think that my way of obtaining a peak temp is more accurate because the gpu is under 98-99% load the whole time for 15 minutes. It's not like I'm playing a game or running heaven and checking the temps here and there -- that's not a very good way to do it, because the card can cool down extremely fast when the gpu load drops even for a second. So if you want to find out your real peak temp, run furmark with those options for at least 15 minutes and that will give you a better idea.

I simply think that regardless of it it's furmark, or something else, obtaining temps needs to be standardized so it is actually useful information. Furmark is easy to get and easy to use, and that's why I like it.
Edited by lukeman3000 - 2/25/12 at 1:04am
post #220 of 8626
In addion to what lukeman has said there should also be a set rad fan speed, and shroud fan speed or %. If your using push/pull that should be mentioned also. Most of us could agree that 1000rpm is quiet and stock shroud fans (if retained) at xxx % (some cards use 60mm stock fans, mine uses dual 90mm). Im not suggesting these be the "be all end all" fan speeds but we should come up with a standard to give validation imo. Something that would reflect the nature of the mod...quiet operation. Keeping under 50c but having your gpu screaming to do so seems a step backwards.

I for one run at 800-1000 rpm on the rad fans and 20% on the shroud fans....not to say when i do my run of futuremark id not raise that to keep the card safe if it becomes hot....look at me, i just contradicted myself redface.gif
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