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[Official] NVIDIA GPU Mod Club - AKA "The Mod" - Page 24

post #231 of 8616
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik in sac View Post

Mine was, so I disassembled it and found the there was too much axial play for the impeller on the little plastic shaft. I used 2mm or so of small heat shrink to "shim" it to where he impeller wasn't rubbing anymore. took a few tries to make it happy, but now totally silent smile.gif

It would be absolutely brilliant if you could do a little guide for this. Did you have to bleed it somehow afterwards? I've had limited success with the "magnet mod" in quieting my slightly noisier pump but it's still not quite as silent as the other one in my system. For reference, the magnet fix:
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post #232 of 8616
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik in sac View Post

Mine was, so I disassembled it and found the there was too much axial play for the impeller on the little plastic shaft. I used 2mm or so of small heat shrink to "shim" it to where he impeller wasn't rubbing anymore. took a few tries to make it happy, but now totally silent smile.gif

Could you please detail the steps you did to fix this? Or go into a little more detail about the problem/solution?

When you disassemble it to this level, doesn't the coolant leak out?? How do you get it all back in there? I have no idea how to go about this.
post #233 of 8616
Hi guys, I'll do my best, but I wish i had taken some pictures, but I couldn't set the pump down with it apart. much. I was a little messy and I balanced the pump on a glass to catch spillage and hold it up while I worked on it. You will spill a little just by opening the pump up. Not a huge deal. even losing a teaspoon of liquid is a very small % of the total system liquid. Just be forewarned and prepared. Have some paper towels handy wink.gif

From the bottom, you remove all the silver screw going around the circumference of the pump housing.

After that, the copper plate will come off. Make sure you are holding it higher than the radiator, because a small amount of liquid will dribble out. I used a small needle/syringe to draw water out and saved it in a small glass to pour back in for reassembly.

The next plate is about 1/6" think and it is a snap fit. Its black plastic and has an o-ring and has water flow holes in it. Pry this up from the outer edge with something thin, like a razor blade, or a fingernail will work sometimes.

Once this 0-ring plate is off, you can remove the impeller. This is just like a small fish tank pump. Has about 6 blades on it and the magnet. This rides on a small diameter white plastic shaft. The shaft has two small rubber end caps on it that seat into the pump housing and that cover plate you just removed in the previous step.

What I found was that there was just enough play that the impeller would drag just a bit in certain mounting positions. I looked around my bench and found some 1/6" heat shrink. I cut small sections of that, like 2mm or so. These fit snugly over the shaft pretty good and had enough thickness to effectively shim the impeller/magnet assembly. The pieces went between the rubber end caps and the magnet on one end, and between the impeller and the rubber cap on the other end. Every pump is different and the length of the shims can vary and may not be needed on both sides.

When you reassemble the pump, before you screw the copper plate back on (but after you have the black plastic plate snapped back down and make sure the o-ring is in its groove), tap the pump to knock water down into the lines, then add what liquid you captured earlier (if you did spill or remove any). Then, remount the copper plate and clean and dry all parts of the housing.

Best thing to do is just hook it up to a fan header and test it before mounting it. If you do not have any cooling on your video card since you are doing this mod, you can remove your vid card and boot the PC just for testing the pump. You will just have to hard power it off when your test is done.

Here are a couple of pics I just made to help illustrate the idea. Hope that helps you some. Hope that solves your noise issue. It worked on mine, and its hard to say that all noises are the same, so perform this at your own risk wink.gif I just installed a corsair H100 on my CPU and its making a similar noise that goes away when I tap the pump, however it returns after 20 seconds or so. annoying.

how_to1.jpg
how_to2.jpg
Edited by Erik in sac - 2/26/12 at 10:21pm
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post #234 of 8616
Wow, that is brilliant. The true solution to this problem is revealed.. It's surprising that no one else has done this yet. At least, I haven't seen anyone suggest this kind of a fix for the noise problem yet. The only thing left would be to really document this process with a lot of pictures, but I can certainly figure it out from your detailed description and the diagrams that you provided.

The only other question I can think of right now is did you actually heat the heat shrink? And did you have to cut it to get it around the shaft? I'm still trying to decide if it's worth it to cut all the zipties, dismantle it, and reattach it. Honestly, I think I could live with the sound because I can't hear it unless my head is by the computer, but I wonder if it's causing serious damage to the mechanism, or if it's just an annoyance. What do you think? I'm under the impression that it's more of an annoyance than an actual problem to be worried about.

Again, mad props for posting this. I will probably end up fixing it because I'm just like that. And, I'd really rather not even have to deal with the RMA process (if it would even be accepted post-lapping).

Also, this needs to be put into the OP as part of the guide for those who can't or don't want to RMA their 620 since it's such a wide-spread issue. I would hate to see this get buried over the next few weeks.
Edited by lukeman3000 - 2/27/12 at 2:48am
post #235 of 8616
Very nice! Ok, so I am hearing some noise on occasion. It is very infrequent for me but I do occasionally hear this rattling noise others are reporting as continuous. Good to know what it is, doesn't sound harmful at all just annoying.

To experts... would this fix contaminate the unit? I believe the fluid is a glycole mixture but would adding the shrink wrap be any concern for build up or growth now?
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post #236 of 8616
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeman3000 View Post

Wow, that is brilliant. The true solution to this problem is revealed.. It's surprising that no one else has done this yet. At least, I haven't seen anyone suggest this kind of a fix for the noise problem yet. The only thing left would be to really document this process with a lot of pictures, but I can certainly figure it out from your detailed description and the diagrams that you provided.
The only other question I can think of right now is did you actually heat the heat shrink? And did you have to cut it to get it around the shaft? I'm still trying to decide if it's worth it to cut all the zipties, dismantle it, and reattach it. Honestly, I think I could live with the sound because I can't hear it unless my head is by the computer, but I wonder if it's causing serious damage to the mechanism, or if it's just an annoyance. What do you think? I'm under the impression that it's more of an annoyance than an actual problem to be worried about.
Again, mad props for posting this. I will probably end up fixing it because I'm just like that. And, I'd really rather not even have to deal with the RMA process (if it would even be accepted post-lapping).
Also, this needs to be put into the OP as part of the guide for those who can't or don't want to RMA their 620 since it's such a wide-spread issue. I would hate to see this get buried over the next few weeks.

No You cant, not worth disassembling a brand new unit that has warranty, Just RMA it dude. They will test it and give you a new one, cant take more than a week. What happens if you open it and break whatever seal that voids the warranty? then you fix it only for something to do wrong down the line in a few months, a year perhaps that Antec wont cover. See where I am coming from? tongue.gif

Just RMA it, wait it out. go make something else meanwhile biggrin.gif

PS: @OP thanks for the detailed description on the nature of the problem. + Reps to you thumb.gif
post #237 of 8616
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeman3000 View Post

Wow, that is brilliant. The true solution to this problem is revealed.. It's surprising that no one else has done this yet. At least, I haven't seen anyone suggest this kind of a fix for the noise problem yet. The only thing left would be to really document this process with a lot of pictures, but I can certainly figure it out from your detailed description and the diagrams that you provided.
The only other question I can think of right now is did you actually heat the heat shrink? And did you have to cut it to get it around the shaft? I'm still trying to decide if it's worth it to cut all the zipties, dismantle it, and reattach it. Honestly, I think I could live with the sound because I can't hear it unless my head is by the computer, but I wonder if it's causing serious damage to the mechanism, or if it's just an annoyance. What do you think? I'm under the impression that it's more of an annoyance than an actual problem to be worried about.
Again, mad props for posting this. I will probably end up fixing it because I'm just like that. And, I'd really rather not even have to deal with the RMA process (if it would even be accepted post-lapping).
Also, this needs to be put into the OP as part of the guide for those who can't or don't want to RMA their 620 since it's such a wide-spread issue. I would hate to see this get buried over the next few weeks.

As far as the heatshrink, it fit pretty snug without heating (if you did, ONLY use a heatgun btw, no lighters). The pieces will be captured anyway, so the can be slightly loose.
Aparition, As far as it contaminating the glycol... Not sure, but it is not organic and not metallic, so my hope is that it wont cause any harm. The pieces used are so small that even if they disintegrate they wouldn't block up anything

As for warranty issues, It can and should void the warranty, but if you are careful, I dont see how they would ever know. There are no seals anywhere. Having said that, RMA/warranty would be the safest option, but if you are like me, the pump was silent when mounted like it was on a cpu. Only made the rattle when upside down horizontally on the gpu. Im a DIY guy and a tinkerer, so it didnt bother me to tear into a $40 pump LOL. But, I had fun doing it and got to see the insides smile.gif

Oh, and thanks BirdMan wink.gif

*EDIT* I am curious if this solution for the H100 would work for some of the Antec 620 problems. Slightly lowering the voltage. Thats easy enough to try. However, mine is silent now so I cant test that theory. Here is the thread: http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showpost.php?p=563685&postcount=320
It'd be easy to try with a diode or a "good" fan controller.
Edited by Erik in sac - 2/27/12 at 9:02am
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post #238 of 8616
Oh, I wanted to add that I got an H100 for my CPU, so I no linger have my CM V8 cooler blowing warm air directly on the 620's radiator. Now my card idles at 27-28*C and full 95-100% GPU load during benchmarks at 985MHz, it hits 49*C. Gotta love cheap water cooling solutions, so happy I found this thread for all the great ideas everyone has shared thumb.gif
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post #239 of 8616
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBirdman74 View Post

No You cant, not worth disassembling a brand new unit that has warranty, Just RMA it dude. They will test it and give you a new one, cant take more than a week. What happens if you open it and break whatever seal that voids the warranty? then you fix it only for something to do wrong down the line in a few months, a year perhaps that Antec wont cover. See where I am coming from? tongue.gif
Just RMA it, wait it out. go make something else meanwhile biggrin.gif
PS: @OP thanks for the detailed description on the nature of the problem. + Reps to you thumb.gif

The only problem with RMA is that they may not accept it since I have lapped the copper plate..
post #240 of 8616
Brilliant thread.

Posted this in another thread before I discovered this official thread wink.gif I'm considering doing this to my cards but was wondering about something. Pretty sure I can't be the only one thinking about it actually...

I have an old mcr320 lying around here somewhere (don't think it's leaky, but if it is a nice shiny 140.2 rad might be in order) and was thinking of cutting the tubes on the 620 coolers near(ish) to the pumps, then with a Y-splitter, connecting them in parallel and finally hooking them up to the radiator and resevoir/T-line and then refilling with distilled water and a silver kill-coil... Should work in theory anyway. Unless someone can think of a reason this might not work that well?

First I actually have to get paid though... tongue.gif

Yeah, I know, I can hear people shouting to rather "get a proper loop if that what you're planning!" but personally (and I'm guessing this counts for most people that did this little mod) I'd much rather have something a little unique and maybe a bit odd instead of something that anyone can put together with off the shelf components. Also, we're modders FFS! thumb.gif

Again, awesome, AWESOME thread!
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