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[Official] NVIDIA GPU Mod Club - AKA "The Mod" - Page 254

post #2531 of 8630
are the hoses for the rad on the top or the bottom. If the pump is moving but not moving water thats the only thing i can think of.. best orientation per manufacturer is hoses on bottom. that way you are sure to get coolant to the pump. however i think it would have gurgled for a while for it to get that low... Possibly too much heat evaporated the fluid? im just guessing .. obviously. I have never heard of that happening either.

I would pull the block/pump and unscrew the plastic top ( usually the two small screws) to see if you got hit by a voltage spike and somehow dammaged the pcb on the pump. Just to rule it out. I have only seen one post of these pumps where someone crossed a wire or something and that happened. Then power up the pump on the bench. I do it with a power supply with the jumper trick.If you do that plug in a fan or two if you have one close to make sure the power supply turns on.
either way keep us posted.

Im not a fan of that plastic hose the ripple kind. The newer units especially the highert priced models dont use it anymore.
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post #2532 of 8630
Ya definitely something with the pump. When first installing with my SLI setup I ran into 2 issues which lead to 100'c temps.

1. Crap job initialy with installing the cooler to the die (in test fitting).
2. Pump did not get enough juice. Make sure you are either using the mosfet adapter or using an actual power fan input on the Mobo.

Very easy to tell if the pump is not working but you do have enough contact because the Pump unit will heat up but the Rad will be cold, you can also feel the heat from the tubes around the pump.
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post #2533 of 8630
Quote:
Originally Posted by GAEVULK View Post

hello guys, hello dwood I thought I'd take a corsair h50 and install it on my gtx 670 reference, but I doubt it 'cause they reference the PCB short and I would not have problems with the dissipation of other components (shown in photo) will I ask: is there a bracket that allows mounting 1 or 2 fans better? and 'necessary
also cool other components? a system without fans can 'cause problems with any overclock vga?
p.s sorry for my english
IMG


I noticed on my 670 that the memory chips seem to almost be the hottest component on the board. VRM's aren't even as hot as the memory. I've got some good aluminum heatsinks that I'll add to my 670 when I get my replacement card today. I'll post some good pics of the mod on the 670 of mine.
post #2534 of 8630
Quote:
Originally Posted by sunset1 View Post

are the hoses for the rad on the top or the bottom. If the pump is moving but not moving water thats the only thing i can think of.. best orientation per manufacturer is hoses on bottom. that way you are sure to get coolant to the pump. however i think it would have gurgled for a while for it to get that low... Possibly too much heat evaporated the fluid? im just guessing .. obviously. I have never heard of that happening either.
I would pull the block/pump and unscrew the plastic top ( usually the two small screws) to see if you got hit by a voltage spike and somehow dammaged the pcb on the pump. Just to rule it out. I have only seen one post of these pumps where someone crossed a wire or something and that happened. Then power up the pump on the bench. I do it with a power supply with the jumper trick.If you do that plug in a fan or two if you have one close to make sure the power supply turns on.
either way keep us posted.
Im not a fan of that plastic hose the ripple kind. The newer units especially the highert priced models dont use it anymore.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aparition View Post

Ya definitely something with the pump. When first installing with my SLI setup I ran into 2 issues which lead to 100'c temps.
1. Crap job initialy with installing the cooler to the die (in test fitting).
2. Pump did not get enough juice. Make sure you are either using the mosfet adapter or using an actual power fan input on the Mobo.
Very easy to tell if the pump is not working but you do have enough contact because the Pump unit will heat up but the Rad will be cold, you can also feel the heat from the tubes around the pump.

Thanks to both of you but I tried everything and it doesn't work. I'll have to RMA my 620 I think. Also, my HTPC's motherboard burned out and one of my hard drives died. What a great day.mad.gif
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post #2535 of 8630
So I am finally going to be ordering the rest of the parts I need, including the stuff from dwood. His lip bracket takes (if I am not mistaken) a 92mm fan. Anyone know a good one? I dont want LEDs on it as I will be adding my own. Otherwise I have a different question. For the 620, I will need a Y and fans that use three pins, correct? For the H100 all fans are PWM (four pin)? Or am I off base? Selecting fans based on that. EDIT: Should say, the 92s dont need to spin fast, but I do have a black and blue theme going on. I was thinking maybe the Noctuas, but I will be throwing in blue LEDs and I do not want people to see the colour of ugly noctuas.

Screw it, ordered two Noctuas and a total of eight Spectre Pro fans. Figure if it doesnt work, I can get something else, like the Corsair (though I was told they are loud). At ten bucks a pop, they are relatively cheap anyway. I realise they are only three pin, but I will manage.
Edited by MattyMatt - 11/18/12 at 12:08pm
post #2536 of 8630
I use Noctuas, I think they're beautiful smile.gif You can get the new slim ones if you wanna hide them, or you could try Scythe since silence seems to be your interest.

I'm confused about your questions. The 620 comes with one 3-pin input (motherboard to pump) and one 3-pin output (pump to fan). So, if you'd like to power both of your fans on the same line you would need a splitter, but I would highly discourage this for a few reasons. First the two fans plus the pump will probably draw more power than your motherboard can output - best case scenario the fans and pump run a little slow, worst case scenario the pump doesn't run. Generally speaking it is not good practice to power different things or more than two of the exact same thing on the motherboard's 3-pin. Second, having three different things on the same 3-pin line will mess up your readings and limit your ability to control the pump and fans - your motherboard and fan software will be confused by all of the different RPMs and power draws.

So, best practice is really a matter of what you're going for. Most people go molex to pump to GPU fan and then plug their radiator fan someplace else - the rad fan will probably be the loudest and has the greatest effect on temperatures so it's nice to have control over.

I wanted silence, so I connected my pumps via molex, the rad fans on a motherboard line (controlled by speedfan) and the 92mm gpu fan on a seperate motherboard line (also speedfan). This allowed me to insert resistors on the fans I wanted to run at lower voltages and control the speed of the fans via speedfan. Since it's best practice to always have the pump running at full speed (apparently quietest practice too) I left it connected via molex so it would always get it's full 12V.
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post #2537 of 8630
Whoa just saw your edit - where'd you get $10 Noctuas?!!!!1?1/!?!
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post #2538 of 8630
The Noctuas were twelve bucks... the 92mm for the gpu lip by dwood. The Spectres were ten.
post #2539 of 8630
hello guys,

has anyone tried http://www.asetek.com/desktop/gpu-a-combo-coolers/760gc.html, i'm curios if i could get this on my i5 2500k and asus 560ti 1gb? I can't find something useful on the internet. Probably i would have to mod it a little to fit. Or buy 570gtx

keep the good work
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post #2540 of 8630
I think you will be disapointed with the performance, as the CPU cooling is more critical of the two. I have a double thick rad (antec kohler h20 920) on my i7 2600k (95watts - same as yours) and get good OCs with it. I would not want to add a GTX560 Ti 2GB heat into that loop. I use h20 620 and the water tubing feels hot. Some general purpose brackets from a hardware store holds one of them in the 5.25" drive bays. I have 2 560TIs in SLI.

EKWB has/had pictures of stripped down reference cards on their web site. It helps us to match our cards to their full coverage blocks. You might have to dig a bit to find the links, as the site looks changed.
Edited by WarDad - 11/23/12 at 6:13pm
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