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[Official] NVIDIA GPU Mod Club - AKA "The Mod" - Page 269

post #2681 of 8626
Just to be certain, you're confusing a "shim" with a "heatsink." Some (mostly ATI Radeon) users use shims like this one so that the coldplate/heatplate of the heatsink/watercooler can make contact with the GPU (where something is obstructing contact between the watercooler's cold plate and the GPU die). AFAIK your card does not need shims.

What you are linking to on ebay is a heatsink. We use these (or a heatplate or a backplate) to keep our VRMs and VRAM cool. They are not necessary but highly encouraged to prevent your VRMs/VRAM from blowing up.

The heatsinks you linked to look fine, but you would do better with something with a thinner base (the part where the heatsink makes contact with the VRAM) and taller "sinks" (those raised bumps) like this, this, or this that would allow more air to pass through/over the surface of the heatsink and allow for greater dissipation of heat. But, for the price, those are a steal smile.gif.
Edited by claes - 12/16/12 at 12:53pm
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post #2682 of 8626
I just completed the "JOHN GALT" mod on a EVGA GTX 670 4GB FTW with backplate.
I'm getting great temps of 50c at 145% (140% actual) Power Target with FurMark at 1900x1200 max A.
The base plate and back plate were left on the card. The base plate is only hittng 33c
.

The copper shim on the right is from Dwood. I used the larger copper cold plate on the left.
The larger footprint should help transfer heat to the water block (pump).
The 3/16 thickness prevents warping. It was actually 50x50mm and I had to cut it down.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2410/exp-03/40x40mm_Copper_Cold_Plate.html?tl=g30c105
Both the copper plate and water block were lapped. Artic Silver 5 was used.


The head is mounted with springs from ACE hardware (Servalite #88) compressed about 40%.
The screws are 4-40 1 1/2 inch, sercured with stop nuts (nylon insert). Dwoods bracket is used.


A check book box fit perfectly. A fitting place for a John Galt sticker.
Fans and duct tape just go together. Black paint helps the looks.

The CLC is a ThermalTake Water2.0 PRO. Overkill yes, but it was on sale.
It is the size of an H2O 920, but without the software. It relies on the Mo'Boards CPU fan control.
The fans are running full, but are still quiet. I did some vibration dampening.
120MM Silicon Absorbers (SA-120) were placed between fan and RAD.
The screws have rubber washers from ACE, and tape on part of the screw threads.

If I had to do it over..
The Water2.0 PRO would be on the CPU and the H2O 920 would be moved to the GPU.
Edited by WarDad - 12/16/12 at 10:02pm
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post #2683 of 8626
I like the springs you put on there, I just kinda guessed that I balanced the bolts on mine to an appropriate torque.
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post #2684 of 8626
Wave washers can substitute for springs. There's just less control over the torque, and less room for heat expansion.
Belleville washers (cone disc spring) could be usefull as they can be stacked.
"Multiple Belleville washers may be stacked to modify the spring constant or amount of deflection."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belleville_washer

The Stop Nuts I used have nylon insert lock. It takes torque to cut into the nylon, so It's hard to judge spring torque.
Regular nuts would be easy to torque. Locktite would prevent vibration creep. I'd use a light grade removeable locktight.
Edited by WarDad - 12/17/12 at 4:44pm
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post #2685 of 8626
Quote:
Originally Posted by WarDad View Post

Wave washers can substitute for springs. There's just less control over the torque, and less room for heat expansion.
Belleville washers (cone disc spring) could be usefull as they can be stacked.
"Multiple Belleville washers may be stacked to modify the spring constant or amount of deflection."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belleville_washer

The Stop Nuts I used have nylon insert lock. It takes torque to cut into the nylon, so It's hard to judge spring torque.
Regular nuts would be easy to torque. Locktite would prevent vibration creep. I'd use a light grade removeable locktight.

What would probably be the best method of tightening down these screws? I simply tightened down the screws with no other hardware. It worked by my plate is slightly warped because of it. Temperatures seem to be fine so I don't know if it even worth re-doing it with better hardware, but in case I get a second card, I'd like to know what the best method is. Thanks.
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post #2686 of 8626
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROM3000 View Post

What would probably be the best method of tightening down these screws? I simply tightened down the screws with no other hardware. It worked by my plate is slightly warped because of it. Temperatures seem to be fine so I don't know if it even worth re-doing it with better hardware, but in case I get a second card, I'd like to know what the best method is. Thanks.
Get a really small socket wrench. I think the one I used was 5mm.
post #2687 of 8626
i dont have any pictures to share yet, but i finally finished lapping my first 620 this afternoon, and after a lot of re-organizing to fit everything properly, ive got one of my gtx 570 HDs using the mod. i ran a quick stress test with evga precision at stock clocks (732mhz gpu/1900mhz mem) to compare my 2 gpus. after 5 minutes, the first card peaked at 78C, and the second card (with the mod) peaked at 48C. i cant wait to get the second one done and see what kind of overclocks i can get out of these things. i will post some pictures once i get everything all together biggrin.gif
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post #2688 of 8626
Any other modding I need to do to mount the 620 onto my 670 FTW? I tried it but it did'nt seem like it compressed the tim as much as it should have, and then I couldn't test it out since my mobo died right after, waiting on the mobo rma. Anyways, the card was running with the 620 zip tied to it, but like I said, it felt like there was still a small gap, think I damaged the card at all? It did allow my buddies system to post, but I did not test it any further.
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post #2689 of 8626
don't start the card till you know its done right. IF your not sure DONT DO IT. The tim will look like any other tim surface if its done right and removed. If it does not look right its not right thumb.gif
post #2690 of 8626
Quote:
Originally Posted by JTHMfreak View Post

Any other modding I need to do to mount the 620 onto my 670 FTW? I tried it but it did'nt seem like it compressed the tim as much as it should have, and then I couldn't test it out since my mobo died right after, waiting on the mobo rma. Anyways, the card was running with the 620 zip tied to it, but like I said, it felt like there was still a small gap, think I damaged the card at all? It did allow my buddies system to post, but I did not test it any further.
You probably didn't damage it, but if the system doesn't POST with the card in, try reseating the cooler.
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