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[Official] NVIDIA GPU Mod Club - AKA "The Mod" - Page 291

post #2901 of 8596
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmanstasiu View Post

That's absolutely true; the H50's 25mm thick radiator will marginally, if at all, benefit from a push/pull setup. Push/pull setups were created for beastly radiators like the Alphacool Monsta (80mm thick ... three H50's) that have increased fin density, and as such required higher static pressure fans to push through.
TL:DR Use one fan per rad, you'll be golden. What are you using to cool the CPU anyways

Yea, a single SP120 does a decent job, and plus, worste case CPU temps will rise like 2c, but my GPU temp is going to drop hopefully 20c+.
post #2902 of 8596
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmanstasiu View Post

that's called a copper shim
Can also be found on Dwood's website, or from Performance-PCS

Danish auto-correct ftw...
post #2903 of 8596
Quote:
Originally Posted by {EAC} Shoot em UP View Post

Thanks for the help! Really, between the time you suggested it on the H-series thread till now, I had heard about this, but never even considered it. Im about to buy the 620, and will also probably get Dwoods bracket, just because it will look cleaner and just be better all around. ...

The Antec 620 and similar have round and smaller pump heads than the H60. They give you more GPU mounting options.
The longer rubber hoses give you more radiator mounting options.

I have done the MOD with and without Dwoods bracket.
With tie wraps and with screws (Dwoods bracket).
On EVGA GTX 560TI 2GB and EVGA GTX 670 FTW 4GB.
I kept the base plate on the GPU card on all mods, which serves as a heat sink for VRM and VRAM.
I'm using a side panel fan for the 560ti and the stock fan on the 670.
560ti base plate heat sink mounting holes (wells) were too closely spaced for screws but allowed for tie wraps.

Dwoods bracket is not notched to fit in place on the pump head. It's clumsy to install, as it can slip out of place.
Dwoods bracket pre-drilled holes match up with the 670 heat sink mounting holes.
Dwoods has a fan mount version which could be handy. How does the vibration affect the mounting hardware?
Dwoods only supplies basic screws and nuts.
...No secure fastening such as lock nuts, lock washers, star washers, or loctite. (the stock screws use a mild loctite)
...No torque limit or mating allowance such as springs, wave washers, belleville washers.
(the stock heat sinks uses springs, the H2O 620 uses spring steel arms.)

I give Dwoods bracket 3 out of 5. thumb.gifthumb.gifthumb.gifmad.gifmad.gif
3 Thumbs up for value, looks, and fan support.
1 Mad for clumsy install which could be corrected by clip, pin, or ridge.
1 Mad for poor hardware support. He could be making extra bucks selling us a premium hardware package.

On the subject of Copper Shims:
Bigger is better:
1. Thicker shims resist warping according to TEC users and other OCers.
2. Thicker shims are easier to hold onto while lapping.
3. A Larger shim will reduce the Delta T burden of having a shim. The pump heads surface area is quite large.

My GTX 670 base plates GPU pocket is just larger than 40mm square.
A 40mm sq copper shim covers most of the pump heads copper plate. So why use something smaller?
The 40mm sq surface area is 2x 28mm sq, and 2.5x 25mm sq.

Dwoods Shim $2 : 25mm sq. 1mm thick (approximately)
EK-VGA Supreme HF HD7970 Cu Adapter $4 : 28.5mm sq. 0.5mm thick
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=33466
Frozen CPU Copper Cold Plate $5.5 : 40mm sq. 5mm thick (3/16 inch)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2410/exp-03/40x40mm_Copper_Cold_Plate.html
...Note: They sent me one that was 50mm sq. and I had to hacksaw it down to 40mm sq. but it was worth the extra work. The thickness was correct.

40mm sq on the left, Dwoods on the right. GPU in the middle.
Edited by WarDad - 1/2/13 at 3:43pm
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post #2904 of 8596
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cravinmild View Post

exactly what I meant Lucus, go show with the linky thumb.gif
I was holding off posting these as they are incomplete but here is a quick peek. This unit was sent to me by sunset1, sent to him with (on this unit) some minor defects and replaced with new units by the manufacture. Thanks sunset1 btw thumb.gif MOST AWSOME OF YOU biggrin.gif:D:D
Ive been playing with the idea of using the second pump on the heatplate covering the other pcb parts. Like a extended full cover block and forgoing any fans blowing on the card at all. This being the most simple to do its naturally the most logical mod to do first. Ive got a few other plans too but not mentioning them as yet. Dwood and Chmod labs had better get started working on some new brackets as im thinking this may turn out to be a popular alternative to the vanilla mod.
8134027321_20836aac11_b.jpg
trub.pump by cravinmild, on Flickr8134067335_49a2d0c881_b.jpg
trub.pump by cravinmild, on Flickr8134025673_8b7d6c8f7e_b.jpg
trub.pump by cravinmild, on Flickr

He bud, what ever became of this?
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post #2905 of 8596
still working on lapping the second pump. The pump I wanted to use on the gpu (forward one) has straight barbs on the hoses. For me that's awesome as I will run the hoses straight out the back of the card and into the optical bay which will hold the rad. I cant for the life of me get the pump to power up, the power wire has an end I cant plug the power into. I had the pump and card on the table ready to go but after cutting my H70 off the card and dry fitting the second clc from sunset1 I found this out. One of the brackets were a perfect fit for my Matrix and H70.. what luck eh thumb.gif My Matrix now is being held on by a bracket.

Id like to keep the unit as a whole, I would like to see about using the second pump as a way to hook a second passive heatsink (cards original-without fan) to see what temp, if any, reductions can be had. Second, I sanded a flat spot on the heatplate sitting on the back of the gpu. I would also like to try having two pumps mounted to the pcb and see what happens. Im also looking at removing a pump from the unit and running a single pump (straight barb one) on the unit but not cut the lines, unscrew the hoses at each pump and remove the unwanted sections.

Everything is working so well atm im hesitant to rip it all down, im tickled currently have the mount for my 580 biggrin.gif I will be switching out fans for this project (when it happens)... Loon Yates red/blacks and some CM red led fans. The whole thing will require a complete Re&Re of the pc.
post #2906 of 8596
Anyone out there used the asetek 760gc? I'm thinking about putting this in my CM Elite 120. I can't seem to find much info or many people using it
    
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post #2907 of 8596
See the post above yours wink.gif
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post #2908 of 8596
Quote:
Originally Posted by claes View Post

See the post above yours wink.gif

Yeah i see the pictures. I was hoping for feedback with it installed. I can't seem to find anyone using it and offering feedback
    
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post #2909 of 8596
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by scotthulbs View Post

Yeah i see the pictures. I was hoping for feedback with it installed. I can't seem to find anyone using it and offering feedback

I think you should take the plunge and be the first! wink.gif
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post #2910 of 8596
@cravinmild gelid makes a cable for the vga header.. the cable has a male and female end on it designed for a 4pin vga fan connector. If your card doesnt have a 4 pin header this is the best solution i have found..
newegg canada also in newegg usa.
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812718002

@scotthulbs.. i need more info on what you are looing for .. cpu gpu configuration?
Ill fire up my trinity in the next day or so and show temps. Ill be putting a 6770 in the system with a a10. My other unit is already modded on a 660ti ( removed the gpu pump) and installed a southbrigde block so i cool both with the 48mm rad. (saving the gpu pump/block for a later mod.
couldnt figure out a easier way to mount to the southbridge on my asrock extreme 4.
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