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[Official] NVIDIA GPU Mod Club - AKA "The Mod" - Page 301

post #3001 of 8626
Quote:
Originally Posted by AtheistDane View Post

Where? I've just been 14 pages back and nothing... Could you be a buddy and link?


Post# 2859, page 286 (this club moves fast, sorry didn't think it was that far back lol) thumb.gif
Edited by cravinmild - 1/8/13 at 3:34pm
post #3002 of 8626
Quote:
Originally Posted by cravinmild View Post

Yes, TJ just did two about 4 pages back, nice pic uploads too. He loves it and the cards look fantastic.
@Shoot em Up- your air to pcb will not change, if anything airflow will be better using Dwood bracket/ fan mount edition. Remember, the air from the stock fans needed to make it past/through the heatsink fins before. You have no heatsink now so the air will blow directly on the pcb. The heatsink would also heat the air up a lot before it blew on that pcb too. Your card is better than it was stock now.
Ive used 1.293v benchmarking (1017-1068core) and it just cooks the paste faster, no issues though. I have oc the mem too (5000-5500) but those extremes are not at the same time. For both to be oc at the same time its more 1027 core & 5000 mem.

Thanks for the info, I did get the fan edition of his bracket and have some random fan sitting around waiting for the bracket to show up. I realize the airflow will be better (and much cooler), but the fan is only on the the side of the PCB where the power connectors are (which im not saying is a problem) just that not much air will make its way to the IO side of the PCB. Although maybe I can make the fan slant slightly in order to get airflow from the 6 pin power side to the IO side of the waterblock.
post #3003 of 8626
Hey guys

Cooler Master Seidon Turned up today, installation was... so easy. I put 4 zipties through the mounting holes and pulled em tight... done.
(Please excuse photos, high iso as not much light in the corner)


I did double up the "lock" zip ties though, to give a little extra... I dunno - seemed like a good idea at the time.



Temps are amazing like with all the other CLC on GPU.

Idling just above the AC ambient @ 26 degrees and haven't gone over 45 degrees yet even though I run modded bios with 1.212V. Have to say though, I can't find my 4 pin extension, so these temps are with the fan running @ 100% (P. LOUD BRO). (ha just popped the AC down to 25, cooler followed suit within a minute).




I have an Arc Midi case (Fractal) and after removing the secondary cage and lower mounting point I had placed my SSD on top of the main HDD cage. The radiator actually slotted in perfectly and firmly so it isn't actually mounted, just gently squeezed in there.




Bonus with the Seidon in Oceania is a free 120MM Blademaster strapped to the outside of the box - the mounting kit includes 8 fan>rad screws so you have everything you need to run push/pull if you want to.

Fans melt into the general system noise on low speed but are pretty loud on full speed. When I find my adapter I will be happier.
post #3004 of 8626
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aesthethc View Post

WOW! It works after a reseat and plenty of paste smile.gif i just used a small pea size like i used to do with seating a CPU... but this time i added some more paste and its down to 27C !!!! biggrin.gif super happy right now. I guess with these kind of mods you really need to use more paste.

More than likely you had air bubbles trapped inside the pump. That will stop it dead.
When you reapplied the paste you moved everything around and those bubbles floated up into the RAD.
You should have tried tilting your system around first, with the power off.
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post #3005 of 8626
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chickenman View Post

Hey guys
Cooler Master Seidon Turned up today, installation was... so easy. I put 4 zipties through the mounting holes and pulled em tight... done.
(Please excuse photos, high iso as not much light in the corner)
~snip~ .

Looks great! Very clean.

That is a serious heat sink you have on your mosfets! thumb.gif
post #3006 of 8626
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sethy666 View Post

Looks great! Very clean.
That is a serious heat sink you have on your mosfets! thumb.gif

It's the default one, was getting pretty warm so shoved a fan underneath it. All seems gravy now.
post #3007 of 8626
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chickenman View Post

It's the default one, was getting pretty warm so shoved a fan underneath it. All seems gravy now.

Always a good move

Nicely done, regardless. thumb.gif
post #3008 of 8626
Quote:
Originally Posted by cravinmild View Post

check to see if there is hot air being blown out the rad, first way to check to see if its seated right and pump is running. IF you know the pump is running (at full speed-direct to psu) then its a bad seat. Ive done bad ones lots, no biggy. Always have lots of paste when doing this mod thumb.gif

What did you mean by at full speed-direct to psu?

Quote:
Originally Posted by cravinmild View Post

Yes, TJ just did two about 4 pages back, nice pic uploads too. He loves it and the cards look fantastic.
@Shoot em Up- your air to pcb will not change, if anything airflow will be better using Dwood bracket/ fan mount edition. Remember, the air from the stock fans needed to make it past/through the heatsink fins before. You have no heatsink now so the air will blow directly on the pcb. The heatsink would also heat the air up a lot before it blew on that pcb too. Your card is better than it was stock now.
Ive used 1.293v benchmarking (1017-1068core) and it just cooks the paste faster, no issues though. I have oc the mem too (5000-5500) but those extremes are not at the same time. For both to be oc at the same time its more 1027 core & 5000 mem.

How about the difference between the stock heatsink VRAM cooling of the gigabyte gtx 670 compared to using the Accelero Hybrid Cooler wherein you install little heatsinks on top of each VRAM module? Is the Accelero better?

Quote:
Originally Posted by WarDad View Post

More than likely you had air bubbles trapped inside the pump. That will stop it dead.
When you reapplied the paste you moved everything around and those bubbles floated up into the RAD.
You should have tried tilting your system around first, with the power off.

For first time AIO liquid cooling system users, how would I know if I have air bubbles trapped inside the loop?
post #3009 of 8626
Quote:
Originally Posted by WarDad View Post

More than likely you had air bubbles trapped inside the pump. That will stop it dead.
When you reapplied the paste you moved everything around and those bubbles floated up into the RAD.
You should have tried tilting your system around first, with the power off.

You know... im having a problem with my second GPU not seating correctly, ive seated it like three times now and its still up at 47C idle or 41C idle..., my other card is fine at around 27C... everything is connected im not exactly sure what to do next...

what do you mean tilting it around?

EDIT: After a fourth reseat i finally got it both down to 27C. Im not exactly sure, ive seated things perfectly fine before but i really had problems with this. But after everything it was all worth it smile.gif Finally got it down.
Edited by Aesthethc - 1/8/13 at 9:46pm
post #3010 of 8626
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post

For first time AIO liquid cooling system users, how would I know if I have air bubbles trapped inside the loop?

You don't, the darn marketing folks never say anything negative about the product, unless its absolutely legally necessary.
I just assume nothing is perfect, and it can't be perfectly filled. So there must be air bubbles somewhere.

Air bubbles in the pump are a Catastrophic Failure, not a performance hit.
You might hear the pump whine as its speed doubles or more, while your temperature maxes out.

You can get gurgling sounds when air is stuck in the hoses or the radiator hose end.
Of course, gurgling may lead to passing a bubble into the pump.
It may also reduce water flow rate.

The best place for air bubbles is the radiators tank end without the hoses.
It helps to place the RAD so that part of the tank is above the pump.
If the hoses exit from the pump bottom you could still trap air in the pump, especially as you move things around to bolt it down.
It's just a matter of moving the RAD and pump around so the air can rise up to the RAD before bolting everything down. Tapping on pump it will help too.
If everthing is already bolted down then tilting the whole system around can fix it. It just takes a little imagination.
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