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[Official] NVIDIA GPU Mod Club - AKA "The Mod" - Page 42

post #411 of 8614
You betcha, I will upload some pics when I get home tonight.
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post #412 of 8614
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cakewalk_S View Post

666,
Why do you have your memory clocked so low? Mines 2250 right now and has been stable for forever. Had it on 2300 for like 6 months without a problem either... You should get a decent performance increase with a decent boost in memory clock, despite what people say I've experienced 1.5-2fps gain from overclocking my memory which I consider pretty good...

I had a play with the mem clock last night and settled on 2150 Mhz.

I tried 2200 & 2250 Mhz without volt changes (1.125v) but I kept getting huge dips across the board while running Heaven (monitoring with Afterburner).

Folded a GPU work unit and played 6hrs of Skyrim without issue. It may have been my imagination but it did seem to play more smoothy. smile.gif

Temps remained at 55c - 56c while folding and 38c - 48c while gaming.
post #413 of 8614
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik in sac View Post

Hi guys, I'll do my best, but I wish i had taken some pictures, but I couldn't set the pump down with it apart. much. I was a little messy and I balanced the pump on a glass to catch spillage and hold it up while I worked on it. You will spill a little just by opening the pump up. Not a huge deal. even losing a teaspoon of liquid is a very small % of the total system liquid. Just be forewarned and prepared. Have some paper towels handy wink.gif
From the bottom, you remove all the silver screw going around the circumference of the pump housing.
After that, the copper plate will come off. Make sure you are holding it higher than the radiator, because a small amount of liquid will dribble out. I used a small needle/syringe to draw water out and saved it in a small glass to pour back in for reassembly.
The next plate is about 1/6" think and it is a snap fit. Its black plastic and has an o-ring and has water flow holes in it. Pry this up from the outer edge with something thin, like a razor blade, or a fingernail will work sometimes.
Once this 0-ring plate is off, you can remove the impeller. This is just like a small fish tank pump. Has about 6 blades on it and the magnet. This rides on a small diameter white plastic shaft. The shaft has two small rubber end caps on it that seat into the pump housing and that cover plate you just removed in the previous step.
What I found was that there was just enough play that the impeller would drag just a bit in certain mounting positions. I looked around my bench and found some 1/6" heat shrink. I cut small sections of that, like 2mm or so. These fit snugly over the shaft pretty good and had enough thickness to effectively shim the impeller/magnet assembly. The pieces went between the rubber end caps and the magnet on one end, and between the impeller and the rubber cap on the other end. Every pump is different and the length of the shims can vary and may not be needed on both sides.
When you reassemble the pump, before you screw the copper plate back on (but after you have the black plastic plate snapped back down and make sure the o-ring is in its groove), tap the pump to knock water down into the lines, then add what liquid you captured earlier (if you did spill or remove any). Then, remount the copper plate and clean and dry all parts of the housing.
Best thing to do is just hook it up to a fan header and test it before mounting it. If you do not have any cooling on your video card since you are doing this mod, you can remove your vid card and boot the PC just for testing the pump. You will just have to hard power it off when your test is done.
Here are a couple of pics I just made to help illustrate the idea. Hope that helps you some. Hope that solves your noise issue. It worked on mine, and its hard to say that all noises are the same, so perform this at your own risk wink.gif I just installed a corsair H100 on my CPU and its making a similar noise that goes away when I tap the pump, however it returns after 20 seconds or so. annoying.
how_to1.jpg
how_to2.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik in sac View Post

As far as the heatshrink, it fit pretty snug without heating (if you did, ONLY use a heatgun btw, no lighters). The pieces will be captured anyway, so the can be slightly loose.
Aparition, As far as it contaminating the glycol... Not sure, but it is not organic and not metallic, so my hope is that it wont cause any harm. The pieces used are so small that even if they disintegrate they wouldn't block up anything
As for warranty issues, It can and should void the warranty, but if you are careful, I dont see how they would ever know. There are no seals anywhere. Having said that, RMA/warranty would be the safest option, but if you are like me, the pump was silent when mounted like it was on a cpu. Only made the rattle when upside down horizontally on the gpu. Im a DIY guy and a tinkerer, so it didnt bother me to tear into a $40 pump LOL. But, I had fun doing it and got to see the insides smile.gif
Oh, and thanks BirdMan wink.gif
*EDIT* I am curious if this solution for the H100 would work for some of the Antec 620 problems. Slightly lowering the voltage. Thats easy enough to try. However, mine is silent now so I cant test that theory. Here is the thread: http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showpost.php?p=563685&postcount=320
It'd be easy to try with a diode or a "good" fan controller.

I got my second replacement pump and now its making the same crappy noise when upside down mounted on the gpu frown.gif thinking if I should open it up and try this redface.gif
Edited by TheBirdman74 - 3/13/12 at 8:27pm
post #414 of 8614
a little update, I tried the shaft fix, it did make it somewhat quite but then the noise came back and the now its everywhere, upside or upside down, I hate antec / astek for not doing everything right in order to ensure these things didn't make the grinding noise, I am sure its the shaft / motor or impeller hitting the walls or something that's causing it frown.gif
post #415 of 8614
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBirdman74 View Post

I am getting around 30 ~ 31C idle and after 10 minutes of furmark around 58C ~61 peak @ stock clocks on my EVGA GTX465 (Flashed to 470). is this normal? the fan is still around 40% and Its still pretty quite and I know I could probably reset the kuhler and re do the TIM and maybe shave a couple of degrees here and there but dont really want to bother tongue.gif before on furmark I would get 90-95C @ stock clocks w/ 75% fan rolleyes.gif

I have a flashed 465 to 470 as well.
@ 1.083 voltage using Afterburner @ 800 core I idle at 30'c and max in games like STALKER CoP at ~55'c. OCCT stress test I maxed at ~60/61'c.
I did NOT lapp the cooler and only using 1 fan to blow. I think my fan is running full bore though.
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post #416 of 8614
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aparition View Post

I have a flashed 465 to 470 as well.
@ 1.083 voltage using Afterburner @ 800 core I idle at 30'c and max in games like STALKER CoP at ~55'c. OCCT stress test I maxed at ~60/61'c.
I did NOT lapp the cooler and only using 1 fan to blow. I think my fan is running full bore though.

that sounds pretty nice.
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post #417 of 8614
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hacksword View Post

that sounds pretty nice.

Thanks, it is the max overclock sadly without using more voltage. Flashed 470's don't overclock quite as well as true 470's.
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post #418 of 8614
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aparition View Post

I have a flashed 465 to 470 as well.
@ 1.083 voltage using Afterburner @ 800 core I idle at 30'c and max in games like STALKER CoP at ~55'c. OCCT stress test I maxed at ~60/61'c.
I did NOT lapp the cooler and only using 1 fan to blow. I think my fan is running full bore though.

You'd probably get a good 5C better temps if you lap the 620. It's HORRIBLE! Not even close to flat. I think its how they mill the surface. They start out and finish in the center, or the other way around. It should be milled straight across. But we can fix that with sand paper and a glass surface. I highly suggest lapping it!
post #419 of 8614
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cakewalk_S View Post

You'd probably get a good 5C better temps if you lap the 620. It's HORRIBLE! Not even close to flat. I think its how they mill the surface. They start out and finish in the center, or the other way around. It should be milled straight across. But we can fix that with sand paper and a glass surface. I highly suggest lapping it!

Totally agree... something to do in the near future. Although I am hardly complaining at 55'c tongue.gif
I am using ICDiamond7 by the way, works pretty good.
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post #420 of 8614
I can't find a place to put the rad for my 620. I have an Antec 900 and already have an H80 on my CPU. I don't really want to mod the 620, Any suggestions?

I am also open to case suggestions, as I am looking to buy a new one. < $200
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