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[Official] NVIDIA GPU Mod Club - AKA "The Mod" - Page 550

post #5491 of 8626
im thinking about modding my gigabyte gtx 770 2gb ver if you guys can pls tell me what i will need to make it happen?

All i know for now that i will need some watercooler which will be corsair branded probably
post #5492 of 8626
You just need an all in one cooler and compatible(Sigma_Cool/GPU Cool/ect) bracket or the time to mod the stock bracket to fit.

For most users the Asetek(most round coolers, but not the CoolerMaster or newer Antec units. they work as well with the GPU Cool from richie_2010) based coolers are more easy because they do not have to be rotated 45 degrees(on some cards), but the 45 degree rotation does NOT hurt performance in any way.

Now you also have to try to get some air flowing over the VRMs(Voltage Regulation Module. The Mosfets are the things that get hot) if they already have a heat sink on them, great. If not some users prefer to install heatsinks on them(take care to not short them out.). A fan blowing on the vrm section of the board is a very common way to lower the temperatures of the vrms and keep them from overheating.

If your core is recessed, you will also need a copper shim to take up the extra space as that thick of thermal paste would kill performance.
Edited by Nukemaster - 3/15/14 at 7:13pm
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
2600K @ 4.4 Maximus IV Gene-z Asus Dual 1070 OC with Artic Mono Plus G.SKILL F3-1866C9D-16GXM Ripjaws X 16GB 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
M4 256 MX 300 Liteon Slot load H80i 
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i5 750 h55n usb3 msi gtx 650 ti Corsair XMS3 CMX8GX3M2A1600C9 
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post #5493 of 8626
what about buying a full waterblock and then connecting it to closed loop like corsair h55? Would it even work?
post #5494 of 8626
Pretty much any cooler will work. I've seen just about every kind used here. And some zip ties, thermal paste. thats about it. This is an easy mod to do and nice on the pocket. Unless you want to get more involved and customize a bracket,
This is from an H-55 that I had to cut the mounting pieces off and solder them where the holes line up to the board. Or you can try to use the cover that came with your card like this
Its all up to how much you would like to try. Best of luck on your mod.
Thats odd X how your getting wet on the fan blade. Cause here its always humid, I mean its like living under a lake and I haven't noticed anything like that. Hope you find out what it is. Also those temps on your mod Bazookatier are high. Maybe check the contact of the pump to card, might need a shim. I just got mine back apart and am going to cut the plate so it wont need a shim like Nuke did. Or might just leave the plate off and try something better for the VRMs. The back heatsink looking thing on the reference 780 is useless the fan dosent even blow air on it. .
post #5495 of 8626
Airrick10 that set up...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bazookatier View Post

Without the backplate, I was nervous about ratcheting them down too tight. I'll cut the old ones and give it another go Tuesday. Thanks!
Your card should be able to take it and I used the pre-applied thermal paste as well but I had to be very focused when I finished the zip-ties. Just get those zip-ties on really tight and even then you should be good to go.
post #5496 of 8626
Quote:
Originally Posted by Torvi View Post

what about buying a full waterblock and then connecting it to closed loop like corsair h55? Would it even work?
While it may work, I am not sure if the pump has the kind of power for the 2 blocks(one in the pump and the full cover.)

A better option may be to get something like the Swiftech H220 if they have it in your area and adding the full cover block to it. That system is made to be expanded(and will cool the cpu and video card once you add the full cover block to it) so you can add a second rad if you want. The 220's rad is also copper(at least as far as i know) so does not cause corrosion(mixed metal) or need the same anti corrosion coolant the normal all in ones have to use.
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Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
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Gaming
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Media Center
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
2600K @ 4.4 Maximus IV Gene-z Asus Dual 1070 OC with Artic Mono Plus G.SKILL F3-1866C9D-16GXM Ripjaws X 16GB 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
M4 256 MX 300 Liteon Slot load H80i 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 7 HP 64 bit BenQ XL2420Z Logitech Wave Corsair 850HX 
CaseMouseAudio
Silverstone FT03 Logitech G9 X-fi Titanium Fatality 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 750 h55n usb3 msi gtx 650 ti Corsair XMS3 CMX8GX3M2A1600C9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
WDC Red 3tb M4 128 WDC scorpio Blue 2.5 Sony AD-7690H-01 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Geminii S Windows 7 HP 64 bit SyncMaster 245t Logitech Wave 
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post #5497 of 8626
h220 is copper rad..it will utterly destroy temps on cpu and gpu
post #5498 of 8626
The internet is not good to convey works they people use for multiple meanings now days.

Is this a good destroy(lowish temps) or bad destroy(your hardware just caught fire)?

I mean if a 120mm fan can keep a cpu cool and a 120 can keep a cpu cool, I would figure both would be ok(not great) on the 220 rad. With the advantage of lower gpu load only or cpu load only temps.
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
2600K @ 4.4 Maximus IV Gene-z Asus Dual 1070 OC with Artic Mono Plus G.SKILL F3-1866C9D-16GXM Ripjaws X 16GB 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
M4 256 MX 300 Liteon Slot load H80i 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 7 HP 64 bit BenQ XL2420Z Logitech Wave Corsair 850HX 
CaseMouseAudio
Silverstone FT03 Logitech G9 X-fi Titanium Fatality 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 750 h55n usb3 msi gtx 650 ti Corsair XMS3 CMX8GX3M2A1600C9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
WDC Red 3tb M4 128 WDC scorpio Blue 2.5 Sony AD-7690H-01 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Geminii S Windows 7 HP 64 bit SyncMaster 245t Logitech Wave 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
FSP SFX 300 watt SG05 Logitech G9 Sound Blaster Omni 
Other
HD PVR 
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Gaming
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Media Center
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
2600K @ 4.4 Maximus IV Gene-z Asus Dual 1070 OC with Artic Mono Plus G.SKILL F3-1866C9D-16GXM Ripjaws X 16GB 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
M4 256 MX 300 Liteon Slot load H80i 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 7 HP 64 bit BenQ XL2420Z Logitech Wave Corsair 850HX 
CaseMouseAudio
Silverstone FT03 Logitech G9 X-fi Titanium Fatality 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 750 h55n usb3 msi gtx 650 ti Corsair XMS3 CMX8GX3M2A1600C9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
WDC Red 3tb M4 128 WDC scorpio Blue 2.5 Sony AD-7690H-01 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Geminii S Windows 7 HP 64 bit SyncMaster 245t Logitech Wave 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
FSP SFX 300 watt SG05 Logitech G9 Sound Blaster Omni 
Other
HD PVR 
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post #5499 of 8626
good.

go read up on the h220 thread..im buds with a member here on ocn that has a h220

his 770 and cpu never even reaches 50's..heavily oc'd
he originally had the 240mm rad with a 180mm rad also..he took off the 180mm extra rad and temps still stayd the same...the pump is also more than capable of running a full custom loop

so if it was my money i would go the h200 route.

anyhow lets stay focused here...

thumb.gif
post #5500 of 8626
plus both routes have pros and cons..

how safe is it to runs three fans from one cpu fan header
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