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[Official] NVIDIA GPU Mod Club - AKA "The Mod" - Page 845

post #8441 of 8629
My shim added no noticable difference to the temps but not all things (shims) are created equal so you could see a temp increasse. The cards I did this mod on all ran in the 80c range so even an increase of a degree or two from adding a shim after modding was still fantastically better to stock cooling temps.

The full cover heatplate on that card posted above sure is sexy. It would require a shim BUT if you could shim it so that the height was exactly the same height of the heatplate the bottom of the aio cooler will contact the heatplate as well as the die it could offer some extra cooling by leaching heat from that plate.
post #8442 of 8629
So would the Accelero Hybrid still work with a GTX 1070 or 1080 without any mod?
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post #8443 of 8629
Quote:
Originally Posted by cravinmild View Post

My shim added no noticable difference to the temps but not all things (shims) are created equal so you could see a temp increasse. The cards I did this mod on all ran in the 80c range so even an increase of a degree or two from adding a shim after modding was still fantastically better to stock cooling temps.

The full cover heatplate on that card posted above sure is sexy. It would require a shim BUT if you could shim it so that the height was exactly the same height of the heatplate the bottom of the aio cooler will contact the heatplate as well as the die it could offer some extra cooling by leaching heat from that plate.

I believe, like our friend said before, anything in between cooler/die will take some of the heat transfer capabilities of it. But it would still be to a minimum, applied with a good thermal paste like MX4 of course.

It's the only option with those FTW heatplate fingers. The idea of making the base of the pump is good, but I believe i will be a few milimeters on the fingers only. Still, a little is better than nothing. Those fingers...not big enough to help cool the heatplate, but enough to get in the way of an AIO Cooler.
post #8444 of 8629
I think so.as well. My heatplates covered the four corners by a minimal.amount, more than those fingers offered though.
post #8445 of 8629
Quote:
Originally Posted by ikjadoon View Post

Right? MSI's is pretty darn close, but it doesn't look as clean. However, it also doesn't have those fingers near the die, which might interfere with the coldplate touching the die.



----

Random question: how insane do I need to become to use CLU on a GPU die? People use it on CPU dies all the time, right? I've heard some people just putting electrical tape around the die, just in case.

What I'm more worried about is removal: I've heard anecdotes that CLU is a little "sticky", so when you try to remove it, there is a slight worry of ripping the die off the PCB. Is that just a scary horror story or is there some truth to that?

Actually the one MSI uses is better due to the increased surface area from the fins (if they have proper thermal pads under it, or paste would be even better). As far as cooling plates go... They are terrific if you worry about placing heat-sinks on the card, but a proper heat-sink fitted to the card with quality thermal pads between will perform a lot better.

Now, as for how much this will actually matter on Pascal/Maxwell... The design is quite a bit more efficient, but it all comes down to how many VRMs they put on the card. The more they have the better, as it will spread the workload between them. Even Pascal cards could struggle with VRM temps if they used to few (like the GTX280 and HD4870 did in the old days).
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post #8446 of 8629
Quote:
Originally Posted by ikjadoon View Post

Right? MSI's is pretty darn close, but it doesn't look as clean. However, it also doesn't have those fingers near the die, which might interfere with the coldplate touching the die.



----

Random question: how insane do I need to become to use CLU on a GPU die? People use it on CPU dies all the time, right? I've heard some people just putting electrical tape around the die, just in case.

What I'm more worried about is removal: I've heard anecdotes that CLU is a little "sticky", so when you try to remove it, there is a slight worry of ripping the die off the PCB. Is that just a scary horror story or is there some truth to that?

I've used CLU on my GPU for a while now. As long as you don't have Parkinson's the risks are minimal. With that said precautions like tape around the GPU die and coating the surrounding area with dielectric grease are advisable. In terms of removal, you want to remove your cooler when the GPU is warm. People who ruin their dies should have paid more attention in chemistry and physics class.

The benefits are small but IMO worth the extra couple bucks. You'll get a roughly 5c improvement over stock TIM and about 2c over a good TIM like NT-H1. In addition your GPU will cool down faster. Finally, while it is tedious to apply, as long as the die is covered, performance is very consistent application to application VS traditional TIMs.
    
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post #8447 of 8629
Quote:
Originally Posted by paskowitz View Post

I've used CLU on my GPU for a while now. As long as you don't have Parkinson's the risks are minimal. With that said precautions like tape around the GPU die and coating the surrounding area with dielectric grease are advisable. In terms of removal, you want to remove your cooler when the GPU is warm. People who ruin their dies should have paid more attention in chemistry and physics class.

The benefits are small but IMO worth the extra couple bucks. You'll get a roughly 5c improvement over stock TIM and about 2c over a good TIM like NT-H1. In addition your GPU will cool down faster. Finally, while it is tedious to apply, as long as the die is covered, performance is very consistent application to application VS traditional TIMs.

WHen you say dieletric grease, you mean something like MX4 that is electrically non conductive? So you put CLU on the die and leave a small space all around it that you fill with MX4?
post #8448 of 8629


post #8449 of 8629
Quote:
Originally Posted by juniordnz View Post

WHen you say dieletric grease, you mean something like MX4 that is electrically non conductive? So you put CLU on the die and leave a small space all around it that you fill with MX4?

Nah, I mean dielectric grease. Clear nail polish also works. I put it on anything metal component on the substrate near the die.
    
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post #8450 of 8629
Quote:
Originally Posted by paskowitz View Post

Nah, I mean dielectric grease. Clear nail polish also works. I put it on anything metal component on the substrate near the die.

Oh, I get it now. The nail polish covers the metal and makes an isolation layer over it. Even if the liquid metal spills there it won't be in contact with the metal. That's a nice tip!

In case of removal, what do you use to get it off? I hear acetone is bad for plastics/silicon
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