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[Official] NVIDIA GPU Mod Club - AKA "The Mod" - Page 846

post #8451 of 8630
Quote:
Originally Posted by juniordnz View Post

Oh, I get it now. The nail polish covers the metal and makes an isolation layer over it. Even if the liquid metal spills there it won't be in contact with the metal. That's a nice tip!

In case of removal, what do you use to get it off? I hear acetone is bad for plastics/silicon

CooLaboratiry Liquid Ultra/Pro come with Isopropyl alcohol wipes (and instructions... which should be read). Q-tips (w/alc) also work well. It shouldn't be an issue under 99% of conditions, but liquid metal is very easy to remove when it is warm. Finally, make sure you cut the included brushes to half their original length. This will make application much easier.

One last thing, DO NOT use any liquid metal if your heatsink (contact surface) is aluminum.
    
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post #8452 of 8630
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andreadeluxe View Post




Very nice. The whole setup looks very nice. Love the pics, great job
post #8453 of 8630
Well, Today I have removed my 670 with the LQ310 from my system to replace it with a GTX 1070. I am going to give it some time with this cooler.

I placed the 670 + LQ310 and a Blademaster fan in my girlfriends system. I ran the pump off an external power supply to vary the speed up and down and let the air get to the top of the radiator. It is much better sounding in that system since the radiator is no longer under the card.

I will certainly miss the lower temperatures and MUCH quieter fan, but I am sure at some point this card will get the same treatment.

Here is its new home.

Edited by Nukemaster - 8/17/16 at 10:54pm
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post #8454 of 8630
OMG why didn't I find this earlier?????

Awesome thread! Was looking for a way to cooldown my Zotac 970 without breaking the bank... or hell, find anything that can ship to Canada decently....

Will browse some cooler and try it out ASAP!
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post #8455 of 8630
Guys, help me here...

I'm going to buy a copper shim to use on my FTW. Since it has those fingers on the heatplate, a copper shim is needed to get the waterblock in contact with the die (pic below).
FTW Heatplate Fingers (Click to show)

My question is: how thick should this copper shim be? I could only find up to 2mm thickness, should that be enough to overcome the heatplate?

Thanks in advance.
post #8456 of 8630
Quote:
Originally Posted by juniordnz View Post

Guys, help me here...

I'm going to buy a copper shim to use on my FTW. Since it has those fingers on the heatplate, a copper shim is needed to get the waterblock in contact with the die (pic below).
FTW Heatplate Fingers (Click to show)

My question is: how thick should this copper shim be? I could only find up to 2mm thickness, should that be enough to overcome the heatplate?

Thanks in advance.
I would dremel those "fingers" on the heatplate.
EDIT:
Wait you're doing this on a 1080???

Dude u can afford a 1080 you can afford a proper plate biggrin.gif forget a shim.
Edited by RedBeaver - 8/19/16 at 10:51am
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post #8457 of 8630
Quote:
Originally Posted by juniordnz View Post

Guys, help me here...

I'm going to buy a copper shim to use on my FTW. Since it has those fingers on the heatplate, a copper shim is needed to get the waterblock in contact with the die (pic below).
FTW Heatplate Fingers (Click to show)

My question is: how thick should this copper shim be? I could only find up to 2mm thickness, should that be enough to overcome the heatplate?

Thanks in advance.

Its beem so lomg since i took ky card apart but 2mm i think is too low. 2.7-3.2mm for my titan but even that im not sure of. i would measure if i were you by removing the parts to access ( its work but you want to be sure) if nobody responds with the proper thickness. i never want to do a destructive mod as i may want to return the card to stock. Ohhhh, 1080, i so jelly right now. Hopefully one of the other members responds quickly for you. have fun and remeber to take your time, have fun with it and walk away when you need a break
post #8458 of 8630
Quote:
Originally Posted by juniordnz View Post

Guys, help me here...

I'm going to buy a copper shim to use on my FTW. Since it has those fingers on the heatplate, a copper shim is needed to get the waterblock in contact with the die (pic below).
FTW Heatplate Fingers (Click to show)

My question is: how thick should this copper shim be? I could only find up to 2mm thickness, should that be enough to overcome the heatplate?

Thanks in advance.

I used two of the Lepa 120mm AIO coolers on my FTW 980tis. The cooling plate on the Lepa block protrudes out and fits in between those "fingers" that you are talking about. Currently the Lepa cooler is $43 at Fry's and can be $33 if you get the rebate back. I used zip ties to secure mine. Have done both cards but will redo the second one.

Look into the Lepa or Enermax AIO 120mm or 240mm coolers. Saves you money on shims and other stuff. I'm at work. I can post pictures later this week.

Edit

This is the cooler I used.

https://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16835494018
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post #8459 of 8630
Hey guys..thaught id ask here..would 2*980's be better than single 1070? Our current prices here are totaly wack..
post #8460 of 8630
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBeaver View Post

I would dremel those "fingers" on the heatplate.
EDIT:
Wait you're doing this on a 1080???
Dude u can afford a 1080 you can afford a proper plate biggrin.gif forget a shim.

If I do that I lose the warranty and I just paid premium for those 3 years here in Brazil. "A proper plate" + a custom loop aren't very affordable here, that's why I'm planning on the mod.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cravinmild View Post

Its beem so lomg since i took ky card apart but 2mm i think is too low. 2.7-3.2mm for my titan but even that im not sure of. i would measure if i were you by removing the parts to access ( its work but you want to be sure) if nobody responds with the proper thickness. i never want to do a destructive mod as i may want to return the card to stock. Ohhhh, 1080, i so jelly right now. Hopefully one of the other members responds quickly for you. have fun and remeber to take your time, have fun with it and walk away when you need a break

The problem is I can't find shims thicker than 2mm. And I believe that stacking shims will take away some of the mod's cooling power. Not nice to hame so many thermal grease layers between waterblock and die. I'm hoping a 2mm thick can help make contact, since the die seems to be a little "higher" than the PCB (can't remember the word in english right now biggrin.gif )
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vodkacooling View Post

I used two of the Lepa 120mm AIO coolers on my FTW 980tis. The cooling plate on the Lepa block protrudes out and fits in between those "fingers" that you are talking about. Currently the Lepa cooler is $43 at Fry's and can be $33 if you get the rebate back. I used zip ties to secure mine. Have done both cards but will redo the second one.

Look into the Lepa or Enermax AIO 120mm or 240mm coolers. Saves you money on shims and other stuff. I'm at work. I can post pictures later this week.
Edit
This is the cooler I used.
https://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16835494018
)

Thanks for the tip, but I'm from Brazil and don't have access to those products here. I'll use something from corsair because of their 5 year warranty and avaiabilty in my country.
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