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[Official] AMD/ATI GPU Mod Club - AKA "The Red Mod" - Page 14

post #131 of 3006
The second 1 is compatible. Not sure bout the 1st one.
I wanted the all over cover for mine, I guess you could email the people that are selling it and ask if it fits the 1st version/revision of the card.
The 1st version has the corner sliced off the back of one of the power pins.
The 2nd rectified this and I think used binned dies
N then there is 3rd party boards.

But don't 100% quote me on that bit.
post #132 of 3006
Went ahead and sent an email to them regarding both coolers, will see what they say back.
post #133 of 3006
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusher33 View Post

Asetek has said they got some DIY solutions for the 500 series cards on the way.

ive been browsing the internet trying to find some help as to a bracket using the o ring from cpu mounting and it seems it wont work for the 6950/6970 or the 5000 series.

228
the o ring for the pump has a outer ring diamiter close to 80mm and inner close to 75mm

when i drew a square on a peice of paper (corners for screws) the ring covers the screw holes.
post #134 of 3006
Quote:
Originally Posted by richie_2010 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusher33 View Post

Asetek has said they got some DIY solutions for the 500 series cards on the way.

ive been browsing the internet trying to find some help as to a bracket using the o ring from cpu mounting and it seems it wont work for the 6950/6970 or the 5000 series.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
228
the o ring for the pump has a outer ring diamiter close to 80mm and inner close to 75mm

when i drew a square on a peice of paper (corners for screws) the ring covers the screw holes.

So the pump is too large for the mounting holes?

What about using a copper plate with tapered holes for some flat head screws to mount to the GPU, with some mounting holes on it that would fir the cooler?
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CHILZ - Lan Rig
(17 items)
 
CANARY - Main Rig
(16 items)
 
CADILLAC - HTPC
(14 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5-4570s Asus H97M-Plus AMD R9 280 G.Skill RipjawsX 16 GB (2x8) 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
250 GB Samsung 840 240 GB Kingston 3 TB USB 3.0 Drive Custom Loop 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 10 Preview BenQ GL2450 Filco MajesTouch2 Ninja PC P&C Silencer Mk III 600 W 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Fractal Design Core 1000 Mionix Castor Monoprice XXL JL Amps + Custom Morel Bookshelf speakers 
Other
Scythe Kama-Panel 3 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX-8150 @ 4.6 GHz Fatal1ty 990FX Pro 9800 GTX+ 512 MB G.Skill Ripjaws X 1866 CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
120 GB OCZ Vertex 3 1 TB WD Black 5x 120mm + MCP350 + EK Supreme HF + MicroRes Windows 8 Consumer Preview 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
2x Dell U2212HM Logitech G110 Cooler Master 850W Silent Pro Cooler Master 690 II Adv. 
MouseMouse PadAudio
Razer Death Adder 3.5G Staples Gel Cushion Asus Xonar DG + Senn. PC333D 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q6600 Acer X1800 ATI 5670 2 GB Kingston 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
2 TB WD Green Asus BD-R Windows 7 Home Premium Sony 50" LCD 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Acer Media 220 W SFF Acer X1800 Acer Optical 
Mouse PadAudio
The TV cabinet Denon 2808 7.1 AVR + Dahlquist 350W 8" Sub + Kl... 
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post #135 of 3006
So I won't be mounting until I receive a heatsink for the VRM/VRAMs, but in the meantime, how would I go about mounting it?
Am I using one of the rings that it came with & ziptying from that to the PCB, or am I just getting one giant ziptie to wrap around the pump, and from that to the PCB?
post #136 of 3006
not the pump itself the o rings that come with them for cpu mounting cover over the holes.
as there are diff ways of mounting i wanted to try using nuts and bolts to hold the pump on and be able to get a tighter fit.

ive seen a couple of ways it can be done but i think using the o ring wont work unless using zippies.
post #137 of 3006
Quote:
Originally Posted by rawfuls View Post

So I won't be mounting until I receive a heatsink for the VRM/VRAMs, but in the meantime, how would I go about mounting it?
Am I using one of the rings that it came with & ziptying from that to the PCB, or am I just getting one giant ziptie to wrap around the pump, and from that to the PCB?

use the o ring and cut off the legs and zip tie it. i was looking at the option of using nuts n bolts but the bracket is to big for the mounting holes (zippies can be angled)
post #138 of 3006
Plugged it up into my fan controller to check it out.
Getting a slightly weird noise.

Can't be sure if it's normal or not, first CLC.

Attached, also attached a pic of what I think is proper, or not?

As far as the pictures, yellow would be ziptie from cooler to PCB.
My question is, would I use the O-Ring, but I'd need to cut off the ears.. Which I'd rather just keep stock incase I do decide to toss it on my CPU.

Or, could I put a ziptie in place of the blue line, zip it tight, then use the yellow from the blue ziptie to the PCB?

That way I could keep everything stock and just use it on my CPU if I need to, or if I sell it I won't need to pick anything up..

Pic:
th_Ziptie1.jpg
th_Ziptie2.jpg

Video:
th_MVI_6442.jpg
post #139 of 3006
Thread Starter 
Do it as first picture and use a cable tie or 2 jointed together as the blue ring.
Also you only need 4 cable ties to go though the holes on the gfx card. Then 4 more to use as stoppers on the other side.

That sound is normal for a new 620.
Run it at full speed and give it a bit of a shake while the radiator is higher then the pump. This will work all the air bubbles out of the pump, Then it takes a few hours for the pump to be fully run in and make no noise at all. If it still does make noise after a week and it really bothers you you can warranty it.

And lastly its not recommended to run the pump at anything other then full speed.
post #140 of 3006
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmgjet View Post

Do it as first picture and use a cable tie or 2 jointed together as the blue ring.
Also you only need 4 cable ties to go though the holes on the gfx card. Then 4 more to use as stoppers on the other side.
That sound is normal for a new 620.
Run it at full speed and give it a bit of a shake while the radiator is higher then the pump. This will work all the air bubbles out of the pump, Then it takes a few hours for the pump to be fully run in and make no noise at all. If it still does make noise after a week and it really bothers you you can warranty it.
And lastly its not recommended to run the pump at anything other then full speed.

Gotcha, yeah from ring to PCB, would only be four.

When you say stoppers, I assume you mean the ziptie heads, right?

Will do, good to know, will just toss it on my fan controller channel that I won't use, and keep it at high...
Would it be okay to turn it off completely if say my GPU has little to no load and temps are fine?
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