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Disassemble Antec Kuhler 620?

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
Is there any way to take apart or disassemble the Antec Kuhler 620 fittings from the waterblock/pump without leaking out the coolant? I want to mount the rad on the back of my case (to save space) and feed the tubing through some passthroughs mounted on the case.
Could I refill the coolant?

Or if there are any other mods that have been done on this cooler to incorporate it into a larger custom WC setup, I would be interested in links!

Thanks and REPS!

-d3d
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post #2 of 10
http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?&m=85534&mpage=1

I saw this the other day and it seems like th eony way it cut the tubes and replace them. Adding new fittings and all is well.
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post #3 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hednik View Post

http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?&m=85534&mpage=1
I saw this the other day and it seems like th eony way it cut the tubes and replace them. Adding new fittings and all is well.

Thanks man!
Looking for more like this!!
rep+
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post #4 of 10
http://www.overclock.net/t/612436/official-corsair-h50-h70-club/520#post_7890357

Here is the old H50 owners clud. Lots of mods in there. Didn't see anyone able to not have to cut the tubes.
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post #5 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hednik View Post

http://www.overclock.net/t/612436/official-corsair-h50-h70-club/520#post_7890357
Here is the old H50 owners clud. Lots of mods in there. Didn't see anyone able to not have to cut the tubes.

That one's really cool. PM'd the guy for some tips. REP +

Keep 'em coming guys!!
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post #6 of 10
Back when the Corsair H50 was still the bomb people in clubs began to dismantle their H50 enclosed watercooling systems, allowing them to add an extra radiator and use custom tubing (usually coloured or UV). When you dismantle the enclosed watercooling system your warranty will be voided.
I am not very clear with the Antec Kuhler 620 as there aren't many people whom have tried this mod. The reason being the barb sizes and thread sizes of the radiator may be "non-standard", i.e the regular G1/4" barb thread holes or the older 3/8" ones.
Take a bit of research and look for other people whom have attempted this, take note of the barb sizes and the size/diameter of the tubing.
If they are 'standard' then you should be able to dismantly your 620 and add extra watercooling components to the system. But do not add too many, the small pump integrated into the waterblock isn't very powerful, you can imagine as it must be small enough to integrate into the waterblock.
You will have to use new and longer tubing if you do so, as the tubing supplied with the cooler is probably too short. AND AGAIN, research the barb sizes and if the tubing is even seperable with the barbs on the radiator/CPU waterblock.

And to answer your other question, it's logical that coolant will spill when you dismantle it. I mentioned before to expand your watercooling system, add extra tubing and a cheap "T-Line" which allows you to fill/drain coolant from the watercooling system. It's wat it says, it hi-jacks into the middle of a watercooling tube line and acts as an outlet, it is plugged up when not in use. Use it to fill up your watercooling system and drain it.
There is a lot of controversy on whether coolants are better than the good old distilled water + silver combo. Personally you would be better off with distilled water + silver (which has anti-microbial properties) but if you are going for a T-Line, it is pretty impossible to place a coil of silver into your system so fork out a few extra dollars for a cheap cheap watercooling reservoir, which allows you to place a large coil of silver into it, and I personally think the more water in the system the better the flow.
Any aftermarket coolant will be okay, it will end up gunking your waterblocks though.

Cheers dude, I once considered modding an enclosed watercooling system but I decided to custom.
post #7 of 10
Thread Starter 
Thanks bro, very informative.
Yeah..I believe the ID of the tubing/fittings are even less than 3/8". But whatever..I'm thinking about modding it...drilling it for up to 1/2" possibly.
...Well prob more like 3/8...the stock pump wouldn't be put under enough stress with that.

But honestly haven't even used the stock setup yet, so I will test it first of course.
Good input man, repped. thumb.gif
Anymore info about successful mods would be good to see!
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post #8 of 10
Thread Starter 
And I can thread it because I have a G 1/4" threader so its all good. Had to do this procedure with my bonnie, back in the day on my first WC
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post #9 of 10
If you want to use the tubing that they provide and don't want to lose very much liquid you could probably pinch / crimp down the tubing on with 2 nut and bolt cable clips so that water cant get through, and then add another pump or radiator in there. Not sure how you would get rid of the airspace though, you might have too get some of your own fluid as well and fill up the pump and remaining tubing during install.

Just some thoughts biggrin.gif
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post #10 of 10
Thread Starter 
True, crimping would be a good idea but yeah, I'd still have that airspace. Really, anything that ins't COMPLETELY bled, from my experimentation in not having reservoirs in loops, just leads to problems down the line.
It increases the rate of evaporation of the fluid, so I you have to refill every 4 months or so..
And increases aerobic bacterial growth because oxygen is mixing with the fluid..

I decided just not to **** with the thing and leave it as is. Came up with a clever use for it. Stick around for my new case mod!! wink.gifthumb.gif

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