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First leak and it looks bad. - Page 3

post #21 of 26
Great news that your hardware is ok. I would check though on the Koolance QDCs too. I have a liquid cooling setup outside just to see if the products worked and checked for leaks with distilled water and is sitting there for almost 2 months now. I disconnected the QDCs a few times and realized a few weren't sealing tight anymore. I have 4 pair of QDC VLN4 and have RMA'd them already and will be shipping them out soon to Koolance. Heres the thread on Koolance's forums to read up on http://forums.koolance.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2326&start=10 . So you know the defected QDCs are from models VLN3 and VLN4 only if I recall correctly that was said on this forum from a Koolance employee. Just giving you a heads up just incase because this can also be your source of your leak and its possible it could start leaking again while youre gone.
Edited by GTXJackBauer - 1/28/12 at 12:11am
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Nostalgia 2.0
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post #22 of 26
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the heads up on the QDC's. If i understand the thread correctly the problem with this is that when they are disconnected the female part wont close propperly. My leak happend with everything closed and running so should not be the problem, anyway i'll have a check on them in a couple of months, so far they are OK.

And to the other guys, regarding hose clamps, Zippies etc, i allways use zippies. My problem with hose clamps is that i use BitsPower High flow barbs and they have a number of small notches so that you have multiple points where the hose makes contact and seals. When i use hose clamps before they where to wide and would overlap with the notches, the clamps would apply uneven force around the barb and preventing the notches from sealing. Now that i use zippies they are thin enough that i can get them to not prevent the notches from sealing. I use quite thick zippies and tighten them down with a pair of pliers so they are good.
post #23 of 26
I've used 1/2inch barbs with 7 1/16 tubing and no zip ties. Never had a problem. Thanks god!
post #24 of 26
I often would get minor leaks from rotary fittings, before i invested in some good quality ones.

Any lateral force on those things would spring a leak. I expect all rotary fittings are prone to this, but lower quality ones moreso as they lack the decent seals to stop it. Another problem I'd run into is barbs/compressions unscrewing from blocks over time as the tower was knocked, moved or the piping touched. Worth bearing that all in mind.


I've had one major leak in my watercooling life and all my hardware survived. People don't realize how tough it can be.
post #25 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thingamajig View Post

I often would get minor leaks from rotary fittings, before i invested in some good quality ones.
Any lateral force on those things would spring a leak. I expect all rotary fittings are prone to this, but lower quality ones moreso as they lack the decent seals to stop it. Another problem I'd run into is barbs/compressions unscrewing from blocks over time as the tower was knocked, moved or the piping touched. Worth bearing that all in mind.
I've had one major leak in my watercooling life and all my hardware survived. People don't realize how tough it can be.

Yeah, i only use Bitspower rotary fittings so they should be about the best out there.
post #26 of 26
Yeah, I have to agree with the majority, scrap the zipties and go to your local hardware store for some proper worm gear hoseclamps.

While you lucked out on this, essentially $3 (for two hoseclamps) could have saved you a lot of grief.

Personally, I like the more industrial look and feel of the stainless clamps from the hardware store over the more aesthetic look of painted clamps. The stainless steel ones also seem to work nicely with a 1/4" nutdriver so no worries slipping a flathead into a hose or other important looking object. smile.gif

My 0.02 ...

Hex.
[ Has done testing without clamps before, but it was just that ; a test. ]
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