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Meka G1 woes. - Page 2

post #11 of 18
you can use the paper clip idea you just need to find a way to latch underneath the key itself on two sides and then pull hard.
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post #12 of 18
puuling hard doesn't work well with the costar style stabilizers.
post #13 of 18
i have the MEKA G-Unit i am guessing they use teh same type of keys, i have one of those remover tools, but i just have to pull out.
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Intel 5960X Extreme Edition @ 4.5GHz Always Changing VisonTek R9 290 G.Skill Ripjaws 4 16GB (4x4GB) DDR4 @ 3200MHz 
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Intel 5960X Extreme Edition @ 4.5GHz Always Changing VisonTek R9 290 G.Skill Ripjaws 4 16GB (4x4GB) DDR4 @ 3200MHz 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Samsung 128GB M.2 PCI-E 4x SSD Apotop 256GB SSD 1.82TB NAS Noctua NH-D15 with both fans 
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post #14 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillychuck View Post

I'm just going to return this and seek another mechanical board. I'd have to go out and buy lube, I don't have a key cap puller, its going to have the bar on that key, I don't want to break something and have it be "abuse" to I can't return it.

Seriously? If that's your course of action you may end up returning lots of keyboards. lachen.gif
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post #15 of 18
Thread Starter 
I fixed it, I didn't have to remove the key completely. There are white nylon looking plastic on the key cap that slides along the base plastic of the keyboard and I used a little 3 in 1 (just using the tip of a Q-tip) on the key cap plastic. I'm probably going to keep the board now, I'll pick up a better lube.. Probably the graphite grease the first guy replied with.

I just didn't want to have to fix something I just bought. If it wasn't mail order I would have returned it in a heartbeat, I just don't want to have to wait over a week to get a refund.

Now just need to decide which board to return, oddly enough they are really close in serial number but had different printing on the manuals and one wrist rest says Thermaltake esports and the new one has a red dragon on it... same box/sku/model, odd.
post #16 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hstanford1 View Post

Seriously? If that's your course of action you may end up returning lots of keyboards. lachen.gif

Seriously, when you pay $90 for something you expect it to work? If it was past 30 days I'd fix the thing myself, I would even replace a switch myself, when the company that makes it isn't responsible for it anymore... Really? You just buy stuff, and if its not working properly just suck it up? Sure you do.
post #17 of 18
Weird. I'd go with the one without the dragon wink.gif

And that's not what I meant. I think in the last 3 years every board I've bought needed a little bit of lithium grease on the stabilizers.
That isn't anything "broken" as you would suggest. That even includes rubber dome boards (G510)
Edited by hstanford1 - 1/27/12 at 4:57pm
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post #18 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillychuck View Post

Seriously, when you pay $90 for something you expect it to work? If it was past 30 days I'd fix the thing myself, I would even replace a switch myself, when the company that makes it isn't responsible for it anymore... Really? You just buy stuff, and if its not working properly just suck it up? Sure you do.

man those filcos must really be rubbish! (they have squeaky stabilizers too)
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