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post #71 of 88
Quote:
Originally Posted by nzube14 View Post

Thanks all. How about this question:
I want to have the UT60 (or any other 60mm thick) rad in the top, push/pull. Does the RIVE fit natively? If not, is there any way to make it fit? If there is no absolute way, what's the next best motherboard for overclocking/features (the MSI BB-Xpower II?)?
Thanks!
The UT60 is a great choice for a radiator. It will fit with the RIVE motherboard, but the fan on the bottom left of the radiator may not fit with the 8-pin.
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post #72 of 88
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeman3000 View Post

Question, are you water cooling? I haven't read through the entire thread and I didn't see anything about it in your build list (maybe I'm blind).
Also, I have two recommendations:
One, I think you should upgrade to a 1000 watt PSU. Here's a well-reviewed and relatively cheap 1000 watt PSU.
Reason being is because if you ever choose add another GPU, or more components of any kind, eventually you may be wishing you had some extra juice. It's a good long-term investment and I would, personally, not consider anything lower than 1000 watts for a true "gaming" rig.
Two, I don't like that samsung monitor. I don't know what you ended up buying (Catleap???), but I would HIGHLY recommend a Dell IPS panel.
I have one of these Dells and I absolutely love it. I did a lot of research before pulling the trigger on a display and in the end, the Dell IPS won hands down. Look up some reviews, and consider returning that Catleap or whatever it is you got because this monitor is that good.

Thanks. Lol, you sure are blind tongue.gif
Catleap info here
My latest build is here:

LATEST BUILD Build 7/24/12 (Click to show)
Case: NZXT 810 (White)
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/nzxt-case-casw810b1

Power Supply: NZXT Hale90 1000w (JUST BOUGHT)
http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-HALE90-Supply-Modular-HALE90-1000-M/dp/B003YFIUF0

Motherboard: RIVE
http://pcpartpicker.com/us/part/asus-motherboard-rampageivextreme

Processor: i7-3930K
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80619i73930k

Video Card: Nvidia EVGA GTX 680 (Already own, and bought hydro copper and backplate)

Memory (RAM): 16GB Samsung RAM
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-memory-mv3v4g3dus

HDD/SSD: Crucial 256 GB m4 & Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/crucial-internal-hard-drive-ct256m4ssd2
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/western-digital-internal-hard-drive-wd1002faex

Optical Drive: Asus DVD Drive (JUST BOUGHT)
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-optical-drive-drw24b1stblkbas

Monitor: Already purchased 120hz Catleap

Keyboard: Ducky Shine DK9008S - Blue LED Mechanical Keyboard (Brown Cherry MX) Already have

Sound Card: ASUS Xonar Essence STX
http://www.amazon.com/PCI-Express-XONAR-ESSENCE-STX-90-YAA0C0-0UAN00Z/dp/B001OV789U/

WIFI Adapter:
http://www.amazon.com/PCE-N15-performance-Wireless-N-Transmit-interface/dp/tech-data/B0054L9PWO

TIM: Prolimatech PK-1
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835242019

Misc:
Speakers: Klipsch Promedia 2.1
http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-ProMedia-Certified-Computer-Speaker/dp/B000062VUO/

Belkin Pivot-Plug Surge Protectors
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-BP112230-08-Pivot-Plug-Surge-Protectors/dp/B000JE9LD4/

Logitech HD Pro Webcam C910
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-HD-Pro-Webcam-C910/dp/B003M2YT96/

Optional:
Fiio E6 Headphone Amplifier - E6
http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E6-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005HJWWW8/

What I already have:
Video Card: EVGA GTX 680 (Already mentioned)
Mouse: Logitech G9x
Memory stick: Xporter XT Rage 16GB
Mouse Pad: Steelseries Qck+
XBOX 360 Controller (I game with this, but still want that Ducky)
Audio-Technica ATHM50S Professional Monitor Headphones
Ducky Keyboard

The cooling loop has lots of items listed under one section. I don't know what to decide between the options. Water Cooling Loop (Click to show)
• Res:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9576/ex-res-157/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_250_Inline_Reservoir_BP-WTZM250P-BK.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10278/ex-res-165/FrozenQ_PC_Mods_250mm_Liquid_Fusion_V_Series_2nd_Generation_Reservoir_-_UV_Cathode_-_UV_Red_Helix.html

• Pump:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15144/ex-pmp-184/EK_D5_X-Top_Acetal_Pump_Top_Rev_2_w_Alphacool_VPP655_Variable_Speed_Pump_Installed.html?tl=g30c107s153

• Rad(s):
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32460:3f0e6eb66f34af2fc5fc253b4a6d3585http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2147/ex-rad-12/

Black_Ice_Xtreme_II_Dual_120mm_Radiator_Black_w_Customizable_Fittings.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/4283/ex-rad-88/Black_Ice_GT_Stealth_360_Radiator_-_Black.html?tl=g30c95s161
OR
XSPC RX240

The first one will go on the top, and the second will either go on the bottom or in the front of the case. However, when I saw others try to do the latter, they had to create new holes. Any way around this?


• Fans

For rads:
(8X) http://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-850rpm-58-3cfm/dp/B001Q6RUVO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343185300&sr=8-1&keywords=gentle+typhoon

For case:
(3X) http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF140-Quiet-Single-CO-9050009-WW/dp/B007RESGGC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1342140355&sr=1-1&keywords=corsair+af140

• Fan Controller
http://www.amazon.com/Lamptron-30W-Channel-Aluminum-Rheobus/dp/B00558VXOE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1342140760&sr=8-2&keywords=lamptron+fc8

• CPU Block:
http://www.dtwaterblocks.com/dt-sniper-black/

• GPU Block: EVGA CPU Waterblock (Already owned)

• Tubing, 10FT (ALREADY OWN):
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7206/ex-tub-200/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_12ID_34OD_with_18_Wall_-_UV_Red.html

• Compression Fittings:
(2X) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14933/ex-tub-1101/Monsoon_Free_Center_Compression_Fitting_-_12ID_x_34OD_-_Modders_6_Pack_Chrome_FCC-1234-6P-CH.html?tl=g30c409s1609
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c409/s1611/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Fittings-Compression-12_x_34_Compression_45-Page1.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c409/s1613/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Fittings-Compression-12_x_34_Compression_90-Page1.html

Buy 8 regular and 4 45degree/90degree?

And what about Quick Disconnects (QDCs)?


Quote:
Originally Posted by superericla View Post

The UT60 is a great choice for a radiator. It will fit with the RIVE motherboard, but the fan on the bottom left of the radiator may not fit with the 8-pin.

Thanks. Any way to make it fit? And if not, will the UT60 fit in with the BB Xpower II?
post #73 of 88
Quote:
Originally Posted by nzube14 View Post

Thanks. Lol, you sure are blind tongue.gif
Catleap info here
Damn dude, I'd be scared to buy an overseas monitor like that just in case something goes wrong with it.

What's the big deal with this Catleap monitor? I've heard nothing about it. Basically, it's a 27" high-resolution monitor for relatively cheap?

As for me, I don't think I'd want a 27" monitor. 23" seems to be the sweet spot. But different strokes. Plus, I like knowing that Dell is around if I need to call in for a repair or something like that. I guess you can get squaretrade or whatever it's called (had it for my iPhone), but I still wouldn't feel entirely comfortable buying something like this from Korea. I wonder what the build quality is like.
post #74 of 88
Quote:
Originally Posted by nzube14 View Post

Thanks. Any way to make it fit? And if not, will the UT60 fit in with the BB Xpower II?
I can only verify that a 60mm thick radiator will fit above any motherboard in the Switch 810, but without having used or having seen someone use a 60mm radiator with those specific motherboards and without knowing the specific layouts, I'm not sure if a fan will fit or if the 8-pin or motherboard VRM heatsink will be in the way.
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Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
WD Caviar Black Gentle Typhoon AP-15 Alphacool Cape Corp Coolpex Pro 50LT XSPC EX480 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Primochill PrimoFlex 7/16x5/8 EK Compression Fittings XSPC EX420 Koolance CPU-380I Water Block 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Bitspower 90 Degree Angle Fittings XSPC EX420 VPP655 Corsair Air Series SP140 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
PMP-450S Windows 10 Monoprice 4k Ducky DK9008G2 
PowerCaseOtherOther
Corsair AX1200i CaseLabs Merlin ST10 CaseLabs Merlin ST10 Pedestal CaseLabs Merlin ST10 Pedestal 
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post #75 of 88
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeman3000 View Post

Damn dude, I'd be scared to buy an overseas monitor like that just in case something goes wrong with it.
What's the big deal with this Catleap monitor? I've heard nothing about it. Basically, it's a 27" high-resolution monitor for relatively cheap?
As for me, I don't think I'd want a 27" monitor. 23" seems to be the sweet spot. But different strokes. Plus, I like knowing that Dell is around if I need to call in for a repair or something like that. I guess you can get squaretrade or whatever it's called (had it for my iPhone), but I still wouldn't feel entirely comfortable buying something like this from Korea. I wonder what the build quality is like.


The big deal is that the Catleaps are IPS 27in monitors with resolutions of 2560 by 1440. They have the exact same panels those found in the dell you listed. All for fractions of the price.
And the Catleap that I have clocks to 120Hz. No other monitors than these (and other variations, such as Crossover, Acheiva, Auria, etc.) can do that right now.

It's a risk, but it's VERY worth it, in my opinion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by superericla View Post

I can only verify that a 60mm thick radiator will fit above any motherboard in the Switch 810, but without having used or having seen someone use a 60mm radiator with those specific motherboards and without knowing the specific layouts, I'm not sure if a fan will fit or if the 8-pin or motherboard VRM heatsink will be in the way.

Thank you for your help. I guess I'll bite the bullet. I know that from the OC3D review, the RIVE won't fit fully push pull with a 60mm rad. I'll have to find out if others can.
post #76 of 88
Quote:
Originally Posted by nzube14 View Post

driftkid2323, I do have an SSD, the Corsair GT 120GB, which is faster than the ones mentioned. Thank you for the suggestion, nonetheless!
itzhoovEr, I looked at the 7970, but the only qualms I have of it is the fact that it is AMD, which doesn't have Nvidia PhysX software. I would need some convincing to let go of Nvidia. Thank you for the suggestions thus far!thumb.gif
Are there any suggestions pertaining to the case I should also consider? Maybe the HAF X instead? And also, should my CPU Cooler be the Noctua 6, and not the Hyper 212 EVO?

Because Physx is so awesome...

Also, the Catleaps are amazing. Its not just "some 27" monitor", they use very high quality S-IPS panels, the image quality is very good, much better than TN panels you see at Fry's and Best Buy.

Of course S-IPS is one of those things you just won't understand until you see it. When you put a TN panel next to an S-IPS the difference is night and day.

Personally I own a Dell UltraSharp 30", 2560x1600 and I also bought one of these Catleaps.
Edited by Mygaffer - 8/4/12 at 2:39pm
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post #77 of 88
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeman3000 View Post

One, I think you should upgrade to a 1000 watt PSU. Here's a well-reviewed and relatively cheap 1000 watt PSU.
Reason being is because if you ever choose add another GPU, or more components of any kind, eventually you may be wishing you had some extra juice. It's a good long-term investment and I would, personally, not consider anything lower than 1000 watts for a true "gaming" rig.
Wrong. Completely. You are NEVER going to need 1000W unless you go triple cards. The most current gen cards need in CF/SLI is 750W.
post #78 of 88
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by azeem40 View Post

Wrong. Completely. You are NEVER going to need 1000W unless you go triple cards. The most current gen cards need in CF/SLI is 750W.

Yeah, that's a wrong suggestion, but then again, I did get the NZXT Hale90 1000w for $168. Cheaper than the AX850. Good deal anyone? wink.gif

EDIT: Make that $166.99. tongue.gif
Edited by nzube14 - 8/4/12 at 6:11pm
post #79 of 88
Quote:
Originally Posted by azeem40 View Post

Wrong. Completely. You are NEVER going to need 1000W unless you go triple cards. The most current gen cards need in CF/SLI is 750W.
I understand that it may be wrong for some people, but given the fact that this is "overclock.net" I thought it might be helpful to suggest something that would give the OP plenty of headroom for upgrades in the future.

Check the Nvidia SLI-Certified Power Supply List -- none of the recommended power supplies for GTX 580 2-way SLI are below 900W; in fact, the majority are over 1,000W.

So, I'm not exactly sure where you are getting your information from, but if we look at the Nvidia SLI-Certified Power Supply List we will see that recommending a 1,000W power supply to a user who is purchasing a single GTX 580 is in fact a great recommendation if they ever wish to upgrade to SLI down the line, especially when said 1,000W power supply is on sale for $150.

I fail to see how my suggestion was "completely wrong", or even slightly wrong, unless of course the OP mentioned somewhere in this thread that he would never be upgrading to SLI, but I didn't take the time to read through all eight pages.

Edit: After a some research, it sounds like Nvidia's recommendations may be somewhat conservative. However, most of the information I came across was just forum posts -- in the amount of time I spent searching I couldn't find a "reputable" source that measured two 580s in SLI and found out exactly how much they pull. That said, being conservative certainly can't be a bad thing, and I wouldn't think that Nvidia would provide those specifications just so that people spend more money than necessary on power supplies.

Plus, I like to put my cards under maximal load to make sure that they never reach dangerous temps. In doing this, it increases the draw over what it would be during an average gaming session, and this can cause problems if your power supply is on the fringe of being sufficient. But, Nvidia is apparently throttling newer GPUs so that they can't be pushed to the max in programs like Furmark, but I have no idea just how far "from the max" they are keeping you from getting, or how that relates to the power consumption.
Edited by lukeman3000 - 8/17/12 at 4:19am
post #80 of 88
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeman3000 View Post

I understand that it may be wrong for some people, but given the fact that this is "overclock.net" I thought it might be helpful to suggest something that would give the OP plenty of headroom for upgrades in the future.
Check the Nvidia SLI-Certified Power Supply List -- none of the recommended power supplies for GTX 580 2-way SLI are below 900W; in fact, the majority are over 1,000W.
So, I'm not exactly sure where you are getting your information from, but if we look at the Nvidia SLI-Certified Power Supply List we will see that recommending a 1,000W power supply to a user who is purchasing a single GTX 580 is in fact a great recommendation if they ever wish to upgrade to SLI down the line, especially when said 1,000W power supply is on sale for $150.
I fail to see how my suggestion was "completely wrong", or even slightly wrong, unless of course the OP mentioned somewhere in this thread that he would never be upgrading to SLI, but I didn't take the time to read through all eight pages.
Edit: After a some research, it sounds like Nvidia's recommendations may be somewhat conservative. However, most of the information I came across was just forum posts -- in the amount of time I spent searching I couldn't find a "reputable" source that measured two 580s in SLI and found out exactly how much they pull. That said, being conservative certainly can't be a bad thing, and I wouldn't think that Nvidia would provide those specifications just so that people spend more money than necessary on power supplies.
Plus, I like to put my cards under maximal load to make sure that they never reach dangerous temps. In doing this, it increases the draw over what it would be during an average gaming session, and this can cause problems if your power supply is on the fringe of being sufficient. But, Nvidia is apparently throttling newer GPUs so that they can't be pushed to the max in programs like Furmark, but I have no idea just how far "from the max" they are keeping you from getting, or how that relates to the power consumption.

Lol please do not get a 1000W PSU... xD

please look here if you have doubts.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1140534/psu-calc-final-release
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