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Official NZXT Switch 810 thread - Page 1068

Poll Results: Which Color Version are you buying

Poll expired: Feb 28, 2012  
  • 58% (44)
    White/Black
  • 41% (31)
    Black/black
75 Total Votes  
post #10671 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by jokrik View Post

Its looking alot better but that kink from oump to the bottom rad would cause you some problem
You can probably fix it with a 45 adapter for the bottom rad


And I think from gpu to the top rad you can swap the in and outlet to prevent any cross tubing
But it looks awesome already, just my opinion smile.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by mironccr345 View Post

The loop looks much cleaner! I'd probably get some angled fittings from the bottom rad to the pump. Looks like it'll kink over time. Nice job though and that blue dye/coolant looks really clean. Also, how's that 680 holding up in 5760x1200? thumb.gif


What these guys said about the pump to lower rad tubing, is exactly what jumped out at me as well. I'd make fixing that a priority. They ninja'd me on the reply, but here's the reasoning behind the suggestion: as the coolant, and with it the tubing, come up to operating temperature, the tubing will become much softer and less able to hold its shape, therfore wayyyy more likely to distort / collapse and kink.

If you leak test without the mobo powered up and system running at temp, as most do, this is something that the leak test may not reveal.

As far as swappping the in and out on the top rad to avoid crossed tubes, . . . That one's a damned if you do and damned if you don't, as it would make the curve from the CPU to the rad tighter, and possibly create an issue where there isn't one now.

I'd leave it as it is. It looks fine. . . . crossing "in to out" isn't as unattractive as crossing "side to side".


Darlene
Edited by IT Diva - 1/26/13 at 6:25am
post #10672 of 13812
Here is a picture of my rig as it is now with some proper lighting, as well as my room:





Really like this new case! biggrin.gif

Next purchase will be an XSPC Dual Bay reservoir for my D5 pump to make it look cleaner. tongue.gif
    
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post #10673 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by kcuestag View Post

Here is a picture of my rig as it is now with some proper lighting, as well as my room:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



Really like this new case! biggrin.gif

Next purchase will be an XSPC Dual Bay reservoir for my D5 pump to make it look cleaner. tongue.gif

Minus the zipties, it's really clean! haha.
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post #10674 of 13812
agree++ ...but what drilling holes for if wants a bayres^^
 
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post #10675 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by kcuestag View Post

Here is a picture of my rig as it is now with some proper lighting, as well as my room:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



Really like this new case! biggrin.gif

Next purchase will be an XSPC Dual Bay reservoir for my D5 pump to make it look cleaner. tongue.gif

Looks fantastic! Actually, it looks quite a bit like my build wink.gif although now I feel as if my case is "empty" and feel an indelible urge to go and get a 2nd GTX670FTW and HK Block/Backplate to fill it out thumb.gif

What fans are those on your bottom radiator? They look quite thick!

Also, if you are looking to "clean up" how your reservoir is mounted, you can very easily mount it to the MB Tray using the screw holes in-between the sets of cable management grommets, which would make that final run from the bottom rad to the res much shorter and it would no longer "cross over" the GPU's. I know that you mentioned you are getting a Bay Res, but you may consider keeping the tube res as well... I have mine as such (tube and bay), with the Tube Res helping reduce the turbulence in the water before it gets to the bay res, quieting down the loop (as well as keeping it very easy to bleed). If you do that, you can move the tube res to any height, i.e. right in the middle of the MB Tray, as it is no longer what is directly feeding the pump.
I always thought two reservoirs was a weird thing, but now I kinda love it! Plus, I like your tube res, it seems like it "belongs" with your build.

thumb.gifthumb.gif
   
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post #10676 of 13812
Can the new switches mount a 280 in the bottom without modding now? Or was it only the top panel that was revised.
post #10677 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by oicwutudidthar View Post

Can the new switches mount a 280 in the bottom without modding now? Or was it only the top panel that was revised.

It wasn't the holes that needed to be modded. It was part of the front, it had to be cut..
 
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post #10678 of 13812
In order to fit a 280 rad in the bottom, you need to have a relatively-short PSU AND you need to remove parts of the lower-front-intake fan mounts (the bottom mounts) in order to fit the radiator. You will lose the front lower intake fan, but if you don't mind that, then you should have no trouble. A 280 in bottom paired with a 420 up top will give you some serious cooling power!
   
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post #10679 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by jokrik View Post

Its looking alot better but that kink from oump to the bottom rad would cause you some problem
You can probably fix it with a 45 adapter for the bottom rad

And I think from gpu to the top rad you can swap the in and outlet to prevent any cross tubing
But it looks awesome already, just my opinion smile.gif
Thanks
Yes I agree a couple of 45° angle could make a difference, and I would also like too swap both rads in and outs just need too find a way too mount the pump off the hdd cage.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PatrickCrowely View Post

EK Fittings are looking nice. What size are those ID & OD?
Thanks
These are 13mm or 1/2ID 3/4OD
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/fittings/ek-psc-fitting-13mm-g1-4-e-nickel.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by mironccr345 View Post

The loop looks much cleaner! I'd probably get some angled fittings from the bottom rad to the pump. Looks like it'll kink over time. Nice job though and that blue dye/coolant looks really clean. Also, how's that 680 holding up in 5760x1200? thumb.gif
Thanks
Yeah I'm likin the blue, EK premix U/V Blue with XPSC Tubing.
The GTX 680 does a suprizingly good job, I play BF3 mainly, on a metro map 64 players I get 60-70fps on auto at 5760x1200. Good enough for me!thumb.gif
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post #10680 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

What these guys said about the pump to lower rad tubing, is exactly what jumped out at me as well. I'd make fixing that a priority. They ninja'd me on the reply, but here's the reasoning behind the suggestion: as the coolant, and with it the tubing, come up to operating temperature, the tubing will become much softer and less able to hold its shape, therfore wayyyy more likely to distort / collapse and kink.
If you leak test without the mobo powered up and system running at temp, as most do, this is something that the leak test may not reveal.
As far as swappping the in and out on the top rad to avoid crossed tubes, . . . That one's a damned if you do and damned if you don't, as it would make the curve from the CPU to the rad tighter, and possibly create an issue where there isn't one now.
I'd leave it as it is. It looks fine. . . . crossing "in to out" isn't as unattractive as crossing "side to side".
Darlene
Thanks
I tried too stop the kink by shortenning the tube which has stopped most of it but It could be better with an angled adaptor and If I change the rad in/out I would put 90° on the CPU block aswell.
Allways a work in progress, so we shall see!thumb.gif
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Gunsrunner
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
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Corsair Force 3 SSD 240G Corsair Force 3 SSD 120G WD Raptor 150G WD 500G 
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LG Blueray Burner Asus DVD Burner EK Supremacy CSQ EK FC680 FTW CSQ 
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EK RES X3 EK 360 XT EK 240 XT Swiftech MP655 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
Gentle Typhoon AP15 x 10 Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit Samsung S24A450BW 24" 1920x1200  Samsung S24A450BW 24" 1920x1200 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Samsung S24A450BW 24" 1920x1200 Logitech G510 Corsair TX850w NZXT Switch 810 Matt Black 
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