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Official NZXT Switch 810 thread - Page 1105

Poll Results: Which Color Version are you buying

Poll expired: Feb 28, 2012  
  • 58% (44)
    White/Black
  • 41% (31)
    Black/black
75 Total Votes  
post #11041 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by zerocool135 View Post

for those of you who are still using the stock nzxt 140mm fans, do the fan hubs get warm at all mine do on all my fans, thanks for the help.

I don't know about warm, but one of mine just exploded!

I was just sitting at my computer and all of a sudden I heard a "pop" then my case started to rattle. I shut everything off thinking that maybe a compression fitting on my water cooling loop came off. Looked around, didn't see any orange coolant, but did notice something white in the lower part of my pedestal. After pulling it out, I realized it was a fan blade.

Don't really need it, and I was going to pull all the stock 140mm fans out anyway and replace them with orange fans anyway, but it was the strangest thing to happen to a computer that wasn't being worked on and just sitting there running.
post #11042 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by zerocool135 View Post

for those of you who are still using the stock nzxt 140mm fans, do the fan hubs get warm at all mine do on all my fans, thanks for the help.

I have no issue with my stock fans at all. They have been running fine since the day I got the case. My computer only stays on for about 3 hours a day so they don't get to stay on for too long like a lot other people.
post #11043 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by 47 Knucklehead View Post

I don't know about warm, but one of mine just exploded!

I was just sitting at my computer and all of a sudden I heard a "pop" then my case started to rattle. I shut everything off thinking that maybe a compression fitting on my water cooling loop came off. Looked around, didn't see any orange coolant, but did notice something white in the lower part of my pedestal. After pulling it out, I realized it was a fan blade.

Don't really need it, and I was going to pull all the stock 140mm fans out anyway and replace them with orange fans anyway, but it was the strangest thing to happen to a computer that wasn't being worked on and just sitting there running.
Thats rare thinking.gif
I run mine for almost 6 months and nothing went wrong
I'm not satisfied with the airflow
Going to replace it with custom painted corsair fan

its silent though!
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post #11044 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by jokrik View Post

Thats rare thinking.gif
I run mine for almost 6 months and nothing went wrong
I'm not satisfied with the airflow
Going to replace it with custom painted corsair fan

its silent though!

Oh, to be sure.

The other 5 fans that I have, in 2 Switch 810 cases, are running quiet, cool, and working just fine. One case just sits there running 24/7 and has been on and running (doing Team Folding @ Home) since the day it was first put into service without any issues back in September.
post #11045 of 13812
ya its weird they seem to be working fine but if i stop the blades for a second and feel the hub its warm directly in the center, if it was one fan i would probably think it was faulty but its on all of the stock nzxt 140's in my case.
    
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post #11046 of 13812
Personally, I like to use a high-end synthetic motor oil for fan bearing lubrication. My go-to choices are Royal Purple or Redline, which are Group IV and Group V (PAO and Ester-based, respectively) TRUE synthetics, in 0W40, 5W40, or 5W30 weight. This is mostly because these are the oils I have dozens upon dozens of gallons of each, lol, but using the REAL synthetic oil seems to help. I don't get any of the "black grime" in the bearings anymore, and it quiets down the fans a noticeable amount. Also, when I've "changed my fans' oil" (lol) after a year of mostly 24/7 use, the oil comes out looking almost brand-new, instead of the blackened color that grease or multipurpose oils turn.
It also makes it so that when you flick the fans to spin them manually, they seem to spin forever... Literally 45sec or so! There is so little resistance that it's probably immeasurable.
   
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post #11047 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

Personally, I like to use a high-end synthetic motor oil for fan bearing lubrication. My go-to choices are Royal Purple or Redline, which are Group IV and Group V (PAO and Ester-based, respectively) TRUE synthetics, in 0W40, 5W40, or 5W30 weight. This is mostly because these are the oils I have dozens upon dozens of gallons of each, lol, but using the REAL synthetic oil seems to help. I don't get any of the "black grime" in the bearings anymore, and it quiets down the fans a noticeable amount. Also, when I've "changed my fans' oil" (lol) after a year of mostly 24/7 use, the oil comes out looking almost brand-new, instead of the blackened color that grease or multipurpose oils turn.
It also makes it so that when you flick the fans to spin them manually, they seem to spin forever... Literally 45sec or so! There is so little resistance that it's probably immeasurable.

so you're using fans with removable blades I guess?
 
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post #11048 of 13812
The vast majority of fans can have their blades removed, it's just a matter of removing the sticker, finding the C-Clip and removing it, and separating the two. You'd be best off by finding a true step-by-step (there are some on the forums here, I am almost certain) than following my advice, mostly because I don't have any pretty pictures wink.gif

I have fans from my FIRST custom build, my FX-51/SK8V/X800XT-PE rig, which I built in 2003, that are still running absolutely perfectly TO THIS DAY! They are Thermaltake 80mm and 92mm fans (as well as a few Vantec Tornado 92x38 and 80x38 ridiculous[-ly awesome] fans, some Masscool 80mm, a Dynex 80mm, Silverstone 92mm, and so forth), encompassing the majority of bearing types (sleeve, rifle, ball+sleeve, 2ball, etc), which ran 24/7/365 from '03 to '08-'09, and then have been used sporadically since. I simply re-lubed them once a year, and to this day they not only spin like there is no resistance, there is not a single wear mark on any of the bearings.

The above, combined with the fact that when I tore down my 328Ci's 2.8L Inline-6 to build it up before supercharging it (stripped the engine down, new Mahle Forged Pistons, Carillo Forged Rods, Ferrea Titanium Valvetrain, Schrick Stage5 Cams, ARP full-engine kit, etc, etc, etc), with the help of a friend who happens to be a BMW Master Mechanic, we could not believe that there were no wear markings... Not even on the camshafts! This was after a bit over 60k miles, and I had only ever used Royal Purple 5W40 and 5W30 and Redline 0/5W30/40 oils (changed ever 5k for street miles, but before/after every 2 track days so avg Oil Change Interval was ~950miles, although I went as far as 9500miles on the same oil so....).
Those ~60k miles included hundreds of track/auto-x days, and is equivalent to about 120,000 "regular" miles, btw.
My friend (the BMW Master Mechanic) owns his own shop, and had always told me "you're wasting your money on that stuff for anything but track use!" (told me the same about the Motul RBF660 brake fluid, and Redline Manual trans fluid/PS Fluid/Diff Fluid, although after getting the 3.23:1 Quaife Multi-Clutch Variable-Locking Limited-Slip Diff I had to use their exorbitantly-priced Diff Fluid....$60/liter!).... He carried German Castrol and Mobil1, neither are bad but neither are "true" synthetics.
After seeing the internals of my engine, relative to the number of miles on it, he has been stocking RP and Redline, and highly recommending it to every one of his customers, ever since... I even let him "borrow" one of my old Camshafts which he has hanging on the wall in his shop's office to show why.

That's why I trust the stuff. If it can keep my (on 110oct Race Gas) 513rwhp/468rwtq 2.8L Inline-6 from even showing wear marks on the camshafts, an engine that spends much of its time between 5500rpm and its 8150rpm redline, then it can handle a few fan bearings without blinking!
   
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post #11049 of 13812
Here's an updated picture after adding an XSPC Dual Bay Acrylic reservoir for my D5 pump:




Hope you like it. smile.gif
    
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post #11050 of 13812
I'd also like to ask, I might want to change my top 360mm rad for a 480mm:

http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p9271_Phobya-G-Changer-480-V-2---Full-Copper.html

Would that rad fit in the case with push/pull if I had the revised top panel without any kind of modding needed?

Or better, would it also fit the following Monsta rad with fans on pull mode:

http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p12878_Alphacool-NexXxoS-Monsta-480mm.html
Edited by kcuestag - 2/17/13 at 4:20am
    
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Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Computer Cases › Official NZXT Switch 810 thread