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Official NZXT Switch 810 thread - Page 1131

Poll Results: Which Color Version are you buying

Poll expired: Feb 28, 2012  
  • 58% (44)
    White/Black
  • 41% (31)
    Black/black
75 Total Votes  
post #11301 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by bustacap22 View Post

could u post pics. would appreciate it. I want to pull the trigger on purchasing the rest of my h20 parts. Thanks.







Sorry for the crappy quality cell pics but it should give you an idea of the fitment.
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post #11302 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by bustacap22 View Post

Been searching the forums and having no luck finding info. Looking for answer to my dilemma.. Looking to get UT60 360 rad for the top of my 810 and w/ push/pull config. My MOBO is the RIVE. Anyone here confirm that it will clear the 8 pin connector and the mosfet heatsinks?????

Sorry for the answer that I'm about to give, but ...

MAYBE


I had to take the top off my Switch 810 case and grind down the little ridges on the inside top of the case to get 1-2mm more clearance. Granted, I was using an XSPC RX360 and a GA-Z77X-UP7 motherboard and not your exact configuration, hence my "maybe" answer. But from what I'm told, the UT60 is just a HAIR thinner than the RX360, so odds are you won't have to mod anything. Even if you do, you can look on my "Muzzle Flash" build log to see how I did it.
post #11303 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by chino1974 View Post

The switch 810 WILL NOT fit a UT60 or any other 60mm rad up top in push-pull. Only way to do it is either push or pull only. And if you might have to mod the fans alil to fit even a 45 in depending on the placement of your 8 pin power connector on your mobo. 60mm rads are to thick and there is not enough space for rad and fan above mobo.

Master Freeze yes you can also fit a 420 with alil modding. But not a 60mm thick one. He asked specifically about the UT60 360 which is a 60mm thick rad. You have to look at the thickness of the rad you are going to mount as well as the length. In some situations thickness is alot more important because of the spacing between the mobo and rad.

I watched TONNS of photos with RIVE and 60 mm thick radiators in pull and push-pull. It works. Don't know where did you get that info...
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post #11304 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master Freez View Post

I watched TONNS of photos with RIVE and 60 mm thick radiators in pull and push-pull. It works. Don't know where did you get that info...

...what he said.

plus: If you can fit a rad in the top in push, you also can fit it in push/pull as the pull fans go inside the top panel. It might be a little bit of modding necessary like Knucklehead discribed but you can make it fit with most mobos.
 
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post #11305 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonky View Post

I don't have the time right now to take a measure because I have to drive to work in a couple of minutes but I can do that later when I'm back smile.gif
I guess you could fit in two 180mm fans but technically it wouldn't make sence anyway because the the edges of the fans would be covered by the top bezzel. A third 180mm fan would probably crash with the I/O frontpanel, the powerswitch and the HDD-LED plus the half of it would be covered if you don't go for really serious modding. For to keep the airflow straight I recommend to use 140mm fans as the the case is made for those and provides the needed space and mounts wink.gif
But I will take a measure for you in a couple of hours and then we can see clearly thumb.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Master Freez View Post

NO! IT WILL NOT!

You can mod the metal part and top cover for dual 200 mm fans and for 400 mm radiator. You can also fit 400 mm radiators in the front, two of them together. Total 3x 400 mm radiators with nice airflow and push-pull. The only problem is fans.... only good and quiet are BitFenix Spectre Pro 200 mm and some of them might have issue with motor sound...Other BF's are usually fine.

3x180 = 540, too long, plus radiator is 580 mm + 25 mm fittings at least, will not fit. You can go with the triple 400 mm rads, it will be enough for any system. Use that method with any reservoir with D5 pump under it, like BitsPower Upgrade Kit 150\250 + Swiftech MCP-655 Vario + BitsPower D5 ModKit. It should work. Plus, if you will use push-pull at the top with one rad and dual radiators in the front, you even will have space for top fittings on the front rads! Also all 5.25 slots will be lost... No modding required to fit 400 mm radiators in the front, only long screws to connect them trough the fins under fan holes (yes, it will also work, if do it write)

Switch 810 can be dissassembled totaly: 5.25 bay could be unscrewed, top part can be removed, you only need the dremel, drill and file.

Steps:

1) Dissassemble the case

2) Cut the top of the motherboard tray

3) Cut most legs on the top cover, save only the legs in the corners

4) Kit the top metal part, drill holes for the 200 mm fans (you can get the scheme for 200 mm fans on the Aquatuning website)

5) Clean up every hole and build the rig.

Yes, i was thinking about that mod and i really know that it will work thumb.gif But what i wanna do is make custom case from wood (Full Tower, not a cube) for 6x 540 mm radiators. I already done everything (size and prototype on the picture), just need to make the schemes, some money for it and order from local furniture company smile.gif

Also i want to give to people the schemes for free close to the end of the march. Maybe later. After my build and case tests smile.gif

~specs: two blocks of three 540 mm radiators in push-pull, like dual Monsta 540 mm rads.

6x hdd, 3x 5.25 slots, any motherboard, any psu, 250 ml reservoir + dual Laing D5, all needed holes and dual dust filter on intake. Yes, all practical, clickable side panels, clickable panels with the mesh and dust filters behind (for the top and the front, almost no dust at all inside the case) and big acryllic window smile.gif It will kill any case on the market for me))

Thanks to both of you! Lol master freez you certainly have thought that through, I'm excited to see this design you're talking about thumb.gif
post #11306 of 13812
Anyone here with an AM3 board ever try changing the backplate for the cpu while mounted? The hole NZXT put in for changing plates is too small for AM3's stock plate. I had to take everything back out.
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post #11307 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonky View Post

looks very interesting, unfortunately the tubing is in the way to see your work completely smile.gif

some better pics.





post #11308 of 13812
Hey, I have run into a predicament....

The Rampage IV Extreme is known for keeping its MOSFETs very busy when overclocking, to the point that without adequate cooling CPU throttling is quite likely at speeds of ~4.7Ghz or greater. I will be ordering a MIPS RIVE Nickel/Black Motherboard Block Kit to take care of the front VRM Area (above the CPU) and because it's awesome, however this is only a solution to half the problem.

The other VRM area is actually on the BACK of the board (if looking at the back of the board, to the right as well as above the CPU backplate)... These need to be cooled as well, due to the factory "two strips of thin aluminum" approach not quite cutting it.

A number of people have used BGA/VRAM/MOSFET/etc heatsinks to "fix" the problem, simply applying them over the stock black aluminum bars. I do have 12x Akust 13x12x5mm Copper BGA-sinks, which are nice and low-profile while being of sufficient mass to likely be effective.

HOWEVER....

The CPU backplate cutout in the Switch blocks about 1/2 of the top rear VRM section!

I am not really sure how best to proceed... I would prefer not to cut away more of the case, as I REALLY don't have time to remove and reinstall all of my components right now.
One option that I have been considering is to replace the factory aluminum things with some custom-made COPPER panels, as I have a sheet of 1mm-thick copper that measures about 100x100mm. I figure that I could create a single "L" shaped heatsink instead of using two individual ones, thereby increasing the total surface area AND using a more thermally conductive material. It would also give me ~40% more room on which to attach actual heatsinks.
The problem is that the VRM "heatsinks" are what holds the front VRM heatsinks in place, and I don't want to interfere with their cooling by using a weaker metal as the backplate. Also, the MIPS RIVE VRM Block comes with its own backplate/replacement plate, which would negate the need for my "L"-shaped Copper unit. I suppose I could use the MIPS piece over-top of the copper, but that doesn't seem ideal either.

When I get time to better work on some cable management behind the case, i.e. when I go ahead and sleeve my entire PSU (4-to-1 White/Light-Grey Paracord or MDPC-X, no heatshrink, white connectors, custom SATA Power Strips with correct spacing between drives), I will add an 80x15mm Delta fan blowing onto the area (already have the fan), just to keep air circulating, but as it stands now I don't feel comfortable having a 3800rpm fan near wires that I am not entirely confident will stay put.

I am kind of at a loss as to what to do...

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
   
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post #11309 of 13812
Here it ams:



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post #11310 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by LongShot79 View Post




That's pretty cool man smile.gif So you got your really individually made backplate, nice work thumb.gifthumb.gifthumb.gif


Edit:
What material did you take?
Edited by Tonky - 3/3/13 at 1:32am
 
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