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Official NZXT Switch 810 thread - Page 1147

Poll Results: Which Color Version are you buying

Poll expired: Feb 28, 2012  
  • 58% (44)
    White/Black
  • 41% (31)
    Black/black
75 Total Votes  
post #11461 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by BramSLI1 View Post

That is an absolutely gorgeous build!

Thank you!
Its all worth it, took me a month and a half
Very happy with the result
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post #11462 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent_kenshin View Post

Thanks for your suggestion. I found the Phobya ones that you are talking about listed on PPCS. I will use those for the bottom fans and use the Mod right ones for the top ones. I gotta get some new rad screws for the bottom ones... I think 35mm should do the trick. I am kind of a bit split down the middle on these B-gears fans. I get some strange vibration sounds at low RPM at around 6v and from time to time hear a rattle sound out of one of them. I think I just have poor decoupling. When I take this thing apart, I will give the fans a good listen without them on the rad.

My suggestion would be to take them apart and re-lube them. I personally use (true) synthetic motor oil, specifically Royal Purple or RedLine 0W40 or 5W30, as it works a lot better and last a lot longer than anything else I've tried. Plus, it is specifically designed for use in environments that range from very cool (off) to far hotter than your fans' motors will get when running. Just 1-2 drops on the shaft and re-assemble, it should make the fans completely quiet (motor-wise) and make them last longer to boot!
   
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post #11463 of 13812
So, i somewhat recently got a replacement LED panel cause my rear I/O shield LED's never worked. installed the new panel, and still doesnt work nor do the new LED's. lol. wth? anyone have any ideas or fixes? cause i kinda dont want to put in another ticket and wait for months again. lol.

- also. soon ill be posting some pics of my final 810. gotta cut out some metal on the top of the case to fit a rad and finalize my watercooling loop. biggrin.gif
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post #11464 of 13812
I'm assuming you plugged in the sata power cable to your psu? That's where the rear i/o led gets its power from.

Btw I know people have gotten a mixed bag when it comes to NZXT support but I'm happy to say they sent out a replacement for my side door latch within 3 days of submitting my ticket.
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post #11465 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

My suggestion would be to take them apart and re-lube them. I personally use (true) synthetic motor oil, specifically Royal Purple or RedLine 0W40 or 5W30, as it works a lot better and last a lot longer than anything else I've tried. Plus, it is specifically designed for use in environments that range from very cool (off) to far hotter than your fans' motors will get when running. Just 1-2 drops on the shaft and re-assemble, it should make the fans completely quiet (motor-wise) and make them last longer to boot!

Amsoil The 1st in synthetic is better than Royal Purple and/or Red Line. They started the synthetic oil for Automobile's everyone else copied Amsoil. Amsoil is good for 25,000 miles can Royal Purple or Redline compare?
Edited by Buzzkill - 3/14/13 at 7:21pm
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post #11466 of 13812
can someone please help me out
i have the switch 810 and its my first new build
im having problems right now connecting chasis wiring and making sure mobo is screwed properly
please help me out

--for the motherboard should the screws turn more than once after reaching tighness?
i dont want to overtighten it
i fear i may- not have tightened it enough
i just turned the screws once flush with mobo and reach that tighness, right there i stop and maybe turn a tiny bit barely
does this sound right or should i give the screws another turn?

--in process of connecting the motherboard i find its so difficult to connect the hd audio connector from the chassis
is this normal?
i try to apply quite a bit of pressure and she wont connect all the way down tried wiggling it out getting just dont budge
is this common

well the mobo is more flush on one side (the right) which is odd i double checked the back and all screws are just about in at same length so i guess its okay

i fastened the mobo in x fashion or diagonal all nine of em

---about the connector for hd audio
should it be completely down so i cant see the pins standing out from mobo?


--i have just a tad bit of the pins visible underneath the connector for hd connector, the usb was much easier to connect all the way and usb 3.0 im installing an asus z77 v pro
please somebody help me out im kinda stuck here with the hd connector and is it okay is mobos arent always flush on both sides?

i put the mobo cardboard box on the standoffs and its flush on both sides though so thats odd
maybe its the io shield because of the extra padding
Edited by DrClaw - 3/15/13 at 7:44am
post #11467 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buzzkill View Post

Amsoil The 1st in synthetic is better than Royal Purple and/or Red Line. They started the synthetic oil for Automobile's everyone else copied Amsoil. Amsoil is good for 25,000 miles can Royal Purple or Redline compare?

Don't get me started... First of all, Amsoil didn't "invent" synthetic oil. Second, Amsoil products are a mix of Group III and Group IV Base-Stock, while Royal Purple is 100% Group IV and Redline is one of the few (and highly coveted) Group V oils.
Neither RP nor RL rely on pyramid marketing to sell their product. Neither claim they can run for 25,000 miles, but Amsoil does; funny enough, they don't provide warranty coverage to your engine if should fail as a result!

I have been racing for a long time, and rebuilt quite a few engines; my 328Ci's fully-built 2.8L I6 is running @ stock compression (very high, 10.5:1) with 14.5psi of boost on pump gas (93oct) and up to 24psi on race gas (>105oct). After 20,000 miles of this, myself and a friend (who happens to be a BMW Master Mechanic) tore down the engine to inspect for wear; needless to say, he wouldn't believe that not even the CAMS had any wear marks on them had he not been there during the first build!
That's with over 4,000 track miles...

Oh, and all of my friends who race, everything from turbocharged Miata's and super-high-strung S2000's to Porsche 911 GT3 RS's and Ferrari 360 CS's and F430's...none of them use Amsoil...and none have lost a motor.
   
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post #11468 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrClaw View Post

can someone please help me out
i have the switch 810 and its my first new build
im having problems right now connecting chasis wiring and making sure mobo is screwed properly
please help me out

--for the motherboard should the screws turn more than once after reaching tighness?
i dont want to overtighten it
i fear i may- not have tightened it enough
i just turned the screws once flush with mobo and reach that tighness, right there i stop and maybe turn a tiny bit barely
does this sound right or should i give the screws another turn?

--in process of connecting the motherboard i find its so difficult to connect the hd audio connector from the chassis
is this normal?
i try to apply quite a bit of pressure and she wont connect all the way down tried wiggling it out getting just dont budge
is this common

well the mobo is more flush on one side (the right) which is odd i double checked the back and all screws are just about in at same length so i guess its okay

i fastened the mobo in x fashion or diagonal all nine of em

---about the connector for hd audio
should it be completely down so i cant see the pins standing out from mobo?


--i have just a tad bit of the pins visible underneath the connector for hd connector, the usb was much easier to connect all the way and usb 3.0 im installing an asus z77 v pro
please somebody help me out im kinda stuck here with the hd connector and is it okay is mobos arent always flush on both sides?

i put the mobo cardboard box on the standoffs and its flush on both sides though so thats odd
maybe its the io shield because of the extra padding

You might wanna push up against the IO panel so that it sits flush. As long as you are putting a cable in the right slot and in the correct orientation feel free to put some extra pressure. MOBOs are not as weak as they used to be.

Regarding the screws on the mobo, I would make sure that all the standoffs are screwed in all the way (there will be a little socket that you can use to make sure they are tight, that socket normally comes in the case accessory package). Once you make sure that the standoffs are all the way in (and only put standoffs which are marked for ATX) put the mobo back in and put the screws, if the screws feel they are tight they you are good to go. Also if you can move the mobo up and down a lot then you need to make sure your standoffs and screws are well in place.
post #11469 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrClaw View Post

can someone please help me out
i have the switch 810 and its my first new build
im having problems right now connecting chasis wiring and making sure mobo is screwed properly
please help me out

--for the motherboard should the screws turn more than once after reaching tighness?
i dont want to overtighten it
i fear i may- not have tightened it enough
i just turned the screws once flush with mobo and reach that tighness, right there i stop and maybe turn a tiny bit barely
does this sound right or should i give the screws another turn?

--in process of connecting the motherboard i find its so difficult to connect the hd audio connector from the chassis
is this normal?
i try to apply quite a bit of pressure and she wont connect all the way down tried wiggling it out getting just dont budge
is this common

well the mobo is more flush on one side (the right) which is odd i double checked the back and all screws are just about in at same length so i guess its okay

i fastened the mobo in x fashion or diagonal all nine of em

---about the connector for hd audio
should it be completely down so i cant see the pins standing out from mobo?


--i have just a tad bit of the pins visible underneath the connector for hd connector, the usb was much easier to connect all the way and usb 3.0 im installing an asus z77 v pro
please somebody help me out im kinda stuck here with the hd connector and is it okay is mobos arent always flush on both sides?

i put the mobo cardboard box on the standoffs and its flush on both sides though so thats odd
maybe its the io shield because of the extra padding

...what jassalimba said.
+ all connections should be all way in. It's not uncommon that new parts are a little stiff to fit. It may happen that either the pinheaders or the pins inside the female connectors are not sitting all straight, means you have to move them a little bit around to get them in place. Don't be nervous, like jassalimba said, parts are not so sensetive as they look like wink.gif
Another point for the mobo is that there are these small spring like behaving fins on the I/O shield cover. You have to have a look that they sit correctly around the connetors and even then you have to give the mobo a little push to slide in place.
Just be careful that the standoffs under the mobo don't scratch the mobo's backside! If you already have scratched the backside of the mobo, take it easy, doesn't mean it's broken.
I'm not always that careful with my parts and I have never ever broke one thing while building a rig, so I'm pretty sure if don't try to attach things with a hammer you'll be fine thumb.gif


Edit:
Just remembering now like I build my first rig. Damn I was so nervous when I hit the powerbutton the first time biggrin.gif
That was a great moment Rkingsmiley.png
Edited by Tonky - 3/15/13 at 10:30am
 
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 3570k msi z77a g43 EVGA gtx 680 Corsair Vengeance 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
2x kingston ssd 3k Aquacomputer Cuplex Kryos XT  Alphacool 120 rad Magicool 420 rad  
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Magicool 240 rad EK FC gtx 680 + backplate and single bridge Bitfenix Spectre Pro fans Laing DDC-1T Plus 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
Aquacomputer Aquaero 5 XT Aquacomputer Poweradjust 2  windows 7 HP x23LED 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Razer Lycosa Mirror corsair AX 750 switch 810 Razer Deathadder 
Mouse PadAudioAudioAudio
Razor Goliathus Asus Xonar D2X Corsair SP2500 Sennheiser PC 161 
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Reply
post #11470 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonky View Post

...what jassalimba said.
+ all connections should be all way in. It's not uncommon that new parts are a little stiff to fit. It may happen that either the pinheaders or the pins inside the female connectors are not sitting all straight, means you have to move them a little bit around to get them in place. Don't be nervous, like jassalimba said, parts are not so sensetive as they look like wink.gif
Another point for the mobo is that there are these small spring like behaving fins on the I/O shield cover. You have to have a look that they sit correctly around the connetors and even then you have to give the mobo a little push to slide in place.
Just be careful that the standoffs under the mobo don't scratch the mobo's backside! If you already have scratched the backside of the mobo, take it easy, doesn't mean it's broken.
I'm not always that careful with my parts and I have never ever broke one thing while building a rig, so I'm pretty sure if don't try to attach things with a hammer you'll be fine thumb.gif


Edit:
Just remembering now like I build my first rig. Damn I was so nervous when I hit the powerbutton the first time biggrin.gif
That was a great moment Rkingsmiley.png

Talk about scrathes I put a huge scratch on my RIVE while trying to take a GPU out, good thing there was no circuit around it so no issues, but yeah I remember my first time building all nervous and taking things apart 10 times cos I would always forget something. Now its like dont care if the parts are on the floor, I just follow the basic dos and donts. For example a big dont:
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