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Official NZXT Switch 810 thread - Page 1158

Poll Results: Which Color Version are you buying

Poll expired: Feb 28, 2012  
  • 58% (44)
    White/Black
  • 41% (31)
    Black/black
75 Total Votes  
post #11571 of 13812
Yeah, a Dremel (or other cutting tool) is the only way to do it.

Here's some pics of when I cut out mine:










EDIT: I cleaned it up, sanded the edges all even, and used some White-Out to "paint" the bare aluminum. I chose to leave the little bar in the rear as I figured every little extra bit of structural support this case can have, I'll give it! Plus, it doesn't interfere with anything.

What I did was tape off the areas as you can see, drill holes after marking everything with a ruler to keep it straight, and then cutting from hole to hole; finished by sanding and "painting".
Edited by nleksan - 3/20/13 at 8:30pm
   
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post #11572 of 13812
Looks good! Can't wait for the rad to arrive! tongue.gif
    
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post #11573 of 13812
Here's mine:
CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), default quality
CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), default quality
CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), default quality

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post #11574 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

Yeah, a Dremel (or other cutting tool) is the only way to do it.

Here's some pics of when I cut out mine:










EDIT: I cleaned it up, sanded the edges all even, and used some White-Out to "paint" the bare aluminum. I chose to leave the little bar in the rear as I figured every little extra bit of structural support this case can have, I'll give it! Plus, it doesn't interfere with anything.

What I did was tape off the areas as you can see, drill holes after marking everything with a ruler to keep it straight, and then cutting from hole to hole; finished by sanding and "painting".

pretty sure the cage and case is made out of steel. try using a magnet and see if it sticks. wink.gif
    
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post #11575 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by kcuestag View Post

I plan on using an XSPC EX120 on the back fan that's why I think I'll need to place the top rad facing forward.
I mean the "cover" that covers the top bay drive (for dvd writer) from the rest of the bays below.

You need to put the 420 rad with the fittings forward because it's a HWL rad with 20mm fan spacings, and that extra 10mm of core length makes it too long for the fittings to clear the I/O box at the rear.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kcuestag View Post

Honestly don't mind how it looks at the end since it's something that's not vissible from outside the case, my dad has an automatic saw which has some blades for metal, so might give that a try, hope not to cut my fingers. lachen.gif


There are TWO areas that require modding at the front optical drive bays on the older cases, while with the newer cases with the more open top panel of the optical drive cages, you only HAVE to do a single mod as a minimum.

The little side plates at the top of the optical drive cage have to be shortened forward.

Cut the rear portion off on a line behind the forward top and bottom mounting screws.

Go back and look at the build I linked to on page 1154.

If you use low profile 90's coming out of the rad, it will fit above the drive cage top.

If it's the new design with all the square holes cut in it for air flow, then you can leave it alone.

If it's the original style, no airflow holes, you'll need to do some cutting to the rear portion of it to get some airflow to the front of the rad.


You need to seriously look into getting a minimal set of modding tools if you plan to stay at this hobby.

I'd suggest a drill, a jigsaw, and a variable speed, plug in, (not cordless) rotary tool (dremel) as your basics.

Start with the dremel and some fiberglass reinforced cutoff wheels and sanding drums.


I don't know if it's a language issue or not, but you're getting a lot of good straightforward advice and proceedure info here and you don't seem to be processing it, as you're regularly re-asking the same questions again and again.



Darlene
post #11576 of 13812
so i bought a kraken x60 and when i tried to mount it to my switch's top panel, i found out the 140mm fan holes are spaced apart. thats...not cool. the compatibility list even says it would work! but it doesnt. I bought the case when it first came out. was there a revision? do NZXT reps still hang around this thread?
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post #11577 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyan View Post

so i bought a kraken x60 and when i tried to mount it to my switch's top panel, i found out the 140mm fan holes are spaced apart. thats...not cool. the compatibility list even says it would work! but it doesnt. I bought the case when it first came out. was there a revision? do NZXT reps still hang around this thread?

Yes there is a revision of it,
However a lot of people having a hard time getting the revised panel due to lack of customer service, but some was able to get em
Give it a try by submitting a ticket on the nzxt web and pm xnine if you still dont get any respond
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post #11578 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

You need to put the 420 rad with the fittings forward because it's a HWL rad with 20mm fan spacings, and that extra 10mm of core length makes it too long for the fittings to clear the I/O box at the rear.
There are TWO areas that require modding at the front optical drive bays on the older cases, while with the newer cases with the more open top panel of the optical drive cages, you only HAVE to do a single mod as a minimum.

The little side plates at the top of the optical drive cage have to be shortened forward.

Cut the rear portion off on a line behind the forward top and bottom mounting screws.

Go back and look at the build I linked to on page 1154.

If you use low profile 90's coming out of the rad, it will fit above the drive cage top.

If it's the new design with all the square holes cut in it for air flow, then you can leave it alone.

If it's the original style, no airflow holes, you'll need to do some cutting to the rear portion of it to get some airflow to the front of the rad.


You need to seriously look into getting a minimal set of modding tools if you plan to stay at this hobby.

I'd suggest a drill, a jigsaw, and a variable speed, plug in, (not cordless) rotary tool (dremel) as your basics.

Start with the dremel and some fiberglass reinforced cutoff wheels and sanding drums.


I don't know if it's a language issue or not, but you're getting a lot of good straightforward advice and proceedure info here and you don't seem to be processing it, as you're regularly re-asking the same questions again and again.



Darlene

Thanks a lot Darlene, there's some stuff sometimes I find hard to understand since English ain't my main language, specially when it comes to modding and tools! smile.gif

I guess I'll need to find my self a dremel at least.

Another question, very sorry if you did answer this, I didn't see it. That "drive cage" that I need to mod, is it easily removable from the case? Would be a lot easier to cut it with a dremel outside the case instead of inside and mess the whole case, I saw pictures where you guys removed it, wondering if it's just a few screws to remove it?
Edited by kcuestag - 3/21/13 at 8:13am
    
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post #11579 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by kcuestag View Post

Thanks a lot Darlene, there's some stuff sometimes I find hard to understand since English ain't my main language, specially when it comes to modding and tools! smile.gif

That's what I was thinking, we'll just keep rephrasing it untill it becomes clear.

I guess I'll need to find my self a dremel at least.

Another question, very sorry if you did answer this, I didn't see it. That "drive cage" that I need to mod, is it easily removable from the case? Would be a lot easier to cut it with a dremel outside the case instead of inside and mess the whole case, I saw pictures where you guys removed it, wondering if it's just a few screws to remove it?


The drive cage is *Always* easier to work on when it's removed, but the build I linked to shows a ghetto way to mod it with a jigsaw without taking it out.

Ultimately though, once you get a dremel to do your mods with, most of the kits come with a 1/8" drill bit, about 3.2mm for you metric folks.

You could use that to drill out the rivets that hold the optical drive cage in, there's a half dozen or so.

Replace them with M3 X 6 screws and nuts, which will fit right in the old rivet holes to put it back together.


Darlene
post #11580 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

The drive cage is *Always* easier to work on when it's removed, but the build I linked to shows a ghetto way to mod it with a jigsaw without taking it out.

Ultimately though, once you get a dremel to do your mods with, most of the kits come with a 1/8" drill bit, about 3.2mm for you metric folks.

You could use that to drill out the rivets that hold the optical drive cage in, there's a half dozen or so.

Replace them with M3 X 6 screws and nuts, which will fit right in the old rivet holes to put it back together.


Darlene

Thanks a lot, can't wait for the rad to arrive!
    
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16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2666MHz CL16 Samsung 950 PRO M.2 512GB WD Red 4TB WD Green 1TB 
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Corsair H110i GT Windows 10 PRO ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q Corsair K70 RGB MX Brown 
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EVGA Supernova T2 850W Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Logitech G900 Chaos Spectrum Razer Destructor 2 
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Beyerdynamic DT-770 PRO 80ohm JDS O2+ODAC Zalman MIC-M1 
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Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Computer Cases › Official NZXT Switch 810 thread