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Official NZXT Switch 810 thread - Page 1205

Poll Results: Which Color Version are you buying

Poll expired: Feb 28, 2012  
  • 58% (44)
    White/Black
  • 41% (31)
    Black/black
75 Total Votes  
post #12041 of 13812
I thought this was a Switch 810 thread? Lol just kidding Darlene, great work on those Phantoms.
post #12042 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

Always showing us up, Darlene! tongue.gif


Hardly,

There's been some really nice builds here since the switch came out.

Hopefully, I've inspired some and helped others.


Have you watched my "seat of the pants" fan tests?

I know you're a fan of the 140 bgears, but did you notice how bad they did in my testing?

They are way over spec'd and don't push air against a load very well at all.

I was quite disappointed mad.gif

The Aerocool shark beat it badly and the Prolimatech Aluminum Vortex model beat everything but the 38mm thick San Ace at pushing air thru a rad:


Here's the bgears: (multiply the hertz by 30 for the rpm) . . . ~990




Here's the Shark: ~1260 rpm




Here's the Prolimatech: ~1300 rpm





Running them with a rad as pull fans for the big San Ace:

San Ace with a bgears: ~ 910 rpm




San Ace with Prolimatech: ~1030 rpm




I can't find the pic for the San ace with the shark, but it was just a bit under the Prolimatech results, pretty much a direct correlation to how they did comparatively without the rad.


Pair of San Aces: The ultimate air movers . . . ~1290 rpm






@Joejoe69 . . When you go to the acrylic tubing, keep in mind how plumbers run pipe and electricians run conduit . . . . either horizontal or vertical, but not at an angle.

If you need an angle, run it as a horizontal and a vertical component for the cleanest look.


Darlene
post #12043 of 13812
Yeah, I saw your tests :/ Don't get me wrong, I am very grateful that someone with the means has finally tested some 140mm rad fans, I'm just disappointed with the results! However, I can't complain too much, as numbers don't always tell the whole story... I just know that with about 3/4ths of my loop being cooled by P-P Bgears Blasters 140's, and with my 3930K @ 4.85Ghz 1.345v (1.175v VTT/VCCSA, 1.81264v PLL, LLC on "High", 1.665v vDIMM's) and GTX670 FTW @ 1294core/7250mem 1.22v both running 100% (Prime 95 w 12 workers + 4 instances of FurMark), I get a Delta-T of just 3.948C, and at idle it's 1.131C (all fans on min speed) or 0.889C (all fans on high). It doesn't hurt that I keep my computer room at ~14.5-16C either tongue.gif
   
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post #12044 of 13812
Hi all.

Been a while since I was here, but since I was potentially going to be making some changes to my loop I thought I would return. smile.gif

Basically my XSPC tubing has a yellowish tint (maybe I didn't rinse it properly). It's not affecting the coolant itself as it is still the normal pastel blueberry blue in the reservoir.

That and I need to locate where occasional vibrations are coming from, as well as a slight re-evaluation of the airflow due to a fair amount of dust.

I may or may not make actual changes to the loop but getting new ideas is always fun.
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post #12045 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

Yeah, I saw your tests :/ Don't get me wrong, I am very grateful that someone with the means has finally tested some 140mm rad fans, I'm just disappointed with the results! However, I can't complain too much, as numbers don't always tell the whole story... I just know that with about 3/4ths of my loop being cooled by P-P Bgears Blasters 140's, and with my 3930K @ 4.85Ghz 1.345v (1.175v VTT/VCCSA, 1.81264v PLL, LLC on "High", 1.665v vDIMM's) and GTX670 FTW @ 1294core/7250mem 1.22v both running 100% (Prime 95 w 12 workers + 4 instances of FurMark), I get a Delta-T of just 3.948C, and at idle it's 1.131C (all fans on min speed) or 0.889C (all fans on high). It doesn't hurt that I keep my computer room at ~14.5-16C either tongue.gif


I blame Martin's incredible work and dedication for making me want to test things.

It's really all his fault, and I thank him immensely.


To be sure, while I felt let down by the bgears' performance as well, (I have 9 as push fans on the external cooling module) I guess it was a lot to expect them to equal the Prolimatechs that cost 3 times as much.

It's a lot cheaper to put great specs on the box than a fan that lives up to them in the box.


And to be sure, though they were lowest of the ones that I expected to be good, the NZXT case fans could not even push enough air to spin the passive fan fast enough for the rpm's to read.

I really would need to test more of the popular 140's to gain a decent perspective.


One thing that I really want to do though, is to build a heater setup to be able to test a rad system in the case, as a whole, at wattage levels typical of what we find in hi performance gaming systems.

I think being able to look at how one setup does against another so far as air/water delta, water in /water out delta, and actual water temps at 600W would offer a lot of useful perspective on loop planning.


Darlene
post #12046 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewHighScore View Post

Beautiful switch you got there! Well done. smile.gif

Thanks!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

@Joejoe69 . . When you go to the acrylic tubing, keep in mind how plumbers run pipe and electricians run conduit . . . . either horizontal or vertical, but not at an angle.

If you need an angle, run it as a horizontal and a vertical component for the cleanest look.

Darlene

Thanks for the tip, Darlene. I'll do my best with it. wink.gif
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post #12047 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

I blame Martin's incredible work and dedication for making me want to test things.

It's really all his fault, and I thank him immensely.


To be sure, while I felt let down by the bgears' performance as well, (I have 9 as push fans on the external cooling module) I guess it was a lot to expect them to equal the Prolimatechs that cost 3 times as much.

It's a lot cheaper to put great specs on the box than a fan that lives up to them in the box.


And to be sure, though they were lowest of the ones that I expected to be good, the NZXT case fans could not even push enough air to spin the passive fan fast enough for the rpm's to read.

I really would need to test more of the popular 140's to gain a decent perspective.


One thing that I really want to do though, is to build a heater setup to be able to test a rad system in the case, as a whole, at wattage levels typical of what we find in hi performance gaming systems.

I think being able to look at how one setup does against another so far as air/water delta, water in /water out delta, and actual water temps at 600W would offer a lot of useful perspective on loop planning.


Darlene

Hello,
I actually just bought 4 of these for a push/pull set-up but in 120mm, still waiting for them to ship. (I believe the 120's and 140's are rated the same specs though) Should I expect the same disapointing results for the 120's? Or maybe even worse? It is not too late for me to change my order, is there another 120mm you would reccomend (for radiator push/pull set-up) around the same price range? (Around $10)
post #12048 of 13812
I hope this will help somebody. i have found what i think is the best solution to keep the side window on the switch or any side window clean and pretty much scratch free. When i got my switch i attempted to clean a few fingerprints with some lcd wipes and a microfiber cloth. the lcd wipes scratched the plexi and left it hazy.
i think the best solution if you dont already have scratches is vinegar or windex and a soft microfiber cloth. But for those of you who already scratched it you can restore the polish and remove most visible scratches with "meguires ultimate polish" you can get it any autoparts store. put a dab on the corner of your microfiber cloth and use very light pressure working small areas about 4 inches at a time. use the dry soft part of the cloth to buff it out. i worked both sides of my window with it and all the scratches and oils are gone it looks perfect. enjoy.
Edited by ibleedspeed - 5/13/13 at 4:32pm
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post #12049 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by ibleedspeed View Post

I hope this will help somebody. i habe found what i think is the best solution to keep the side window on the switch or any side window clean and relitively scratch free. when i got my switch i attempted to clean a few fingerprints with some lcd wipes and a microfiber cloth. the lcd wipes scratched the plexi and left it hazy.
i think the best solution if you dont already have scratches is vinegar or windex and a soft microfiber cloth. but for those of you already scratched it you can restore the polish and remove most visible scratches with "meguires ultimate polish" you can get it any autoparts store. put a dab on the corner of your microfiber cloth and use very light pressure working small areas about 4 inches at a time. use the dry soft part of the cloth to buff it out. i worked both sides of my window with it and all the scratches and oils are gone it looks perfect. enjoy.

i got sick and tired of all the scratches and the static on the stock window so i went to lowes and had them cut a piece of glass to replace the window with. no scratches or static and i got the piece 19x19 so the panel is alot stiffer now as well.
    
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post #12050 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by zerocool135 View Post

i got sick and tired of all the scratches and the static on the stock window so i went to lowes and had them cut a piece of glass to replace the window with. no scratches or static and i got the piece 19x19 so the panel is alot stiffer now as well.
its the only way. when the case first arrives, the acrylic isn't that bad. after a while... rolleyes.gif
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Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Computer Cases › Official NZXT Switch 810 thread