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Official NZXT Switch 810 thread - Page 1207

Poll Results: Which Color Version are you buying

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post #12061 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by z0ki View Post

Want to update my Switch 810 and im curious

Would this be sufficient enough to cool a i7 3930k and 2x GTX 680 in SLI?


1) Top Rad: Black Ice SR1 360 Radiator 9fpi
2) Front Rad: XSPC RX240 Radiator 8fpi
3) Pump: XSPC Twin D5 Dual Bay Reservoir Pump Combo

Im reading mixed reports saying that it is no where near enough, and stating if i had a RX360 or something alike then i would be better off but i can't fit a RX360 in a switch 810 with a RIVE. So im out of options.. Seem's this case isn't as water cooling friendly as i once thought lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by Killa Cam View Post

that would be more than enough to cool those components, and you definitely don't need 2 d5 pumps, unless you're planning on expanding your loop and adding more rads and more blocks. it depends, you could easily run pull with an rx360 rad and rive, but i doubt you could do push/pull with both. black ice is doable i think

Quote:
Originally Posted by z0ki View Post

Yeah i will be planning on expanding the loop down the track hence getting the dual D5 and possibly a new case down the line with more rads.. Yeah i know i could run simply pull with the RX360 but rather not purely for aesthetics, Well the Black Ice SR1 is 54mm thick from what i remember their is a 90mm clearance between the top of the case and the start of the Rampage IV Extreme, So 54mm + 25mm fans is 79mm, That will leave 11mm space between the fans and the CPU power connector which i hope will be enough! Maybe someone can confirm?

But back to your answer mate, You saying it would be more then enough is music to my ears but im confused to why so many other people say it isn't enough? Especially if you OC (which all my hardware is)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Killa Cam View Post

idk who the hell has been telling you otherwise, but a 360 and 240 rad combo could easily cool a high tdp cpu like your 3930k overclocked and 3 graphics cards. i think the 90mm clearance only applies for standard atx mobos. the rive is an eatx form factor, but its almost as tall as a xl atx. i can't confirm as i don't have a rive, but you should wait for someone here who has one that would give you better clarification.

imo, d5's are best running as one. and if you would like to run pumps in serial, then id recommend the mcp35x2 as it will give you the best head pressure even for the most restricted loops. and bay reservoirs are pain to bleed ive heard, cylindrical reservoirs is where its at dawg lol. good luck



No wonder everything seems sooooo confusing . . . . wheee.gif


Generalities are being stated as absolutes, end purpose is not being factored in, and any number of qualifiers are left unstated.

If there were 90mm above the mobo, then it would be a cinch to put any rad except a Monsta up there with standard 25mm thick fans in P-P.

It is not that much, it is in the lower 80's, which is why you have guys having difficulty to get some of the 60mm (or slightly over) 420 sized rads installed without mods to the top panel to remove the rolled edges and dimples.

All that problem goes away with 360 rads. . . . along with about 35% of the 420's cooling capacity.

Yes, the 360's stick down from the top just as far as the same rad in a 420 size, but being less wide, they give more clearance along the top of the mobo, as they sit farther above, (from the perspective of the case layed back on its side) so that all the EPS cables plug up OK.

Take away points: Any 360 is a drop in with an 810
A 420 has a lot more cooling capacity, and an SR1 has sufficient clearance and drops in, but you have to run the fittings to the front.
The XT45 420 is a popular install and works great, and fits right in . . (maybe have to drill 8 holes if it's not the new style top panel)


It depends on what you plan to use the rig for, and along with that, some personal criteria, as to how well that hardware can handle your needs.

If silence is a key criteria, but you want to have max overclocks and benchmark, you're looking at opposite ends of the spectrum, so you'd need massively more rad space to be effective with slow quiet fans.

If good gaming with decent overclocks is more the goal, and silence is not, then your hardware choices are getting more inline with real possibilities.


Point is here that the fans can be as important a consideration as any other bit of hardware, and you need to make all the choices based on a set of criteria, and an end goal.

The other question, if you're looking for performance, is why a rad in the front, and not on the bottom, where you have wayyy more room for a thicker 240, or with mods, a 280?


The switch has been around now for quite a while, and a lot of nice builds have been done in them which yields a lot of knowledge about what works well and what doesn't, to make good decisions for an upgrade on.

For the best all around setup for cooling capacity, ease of build, and allowable range of sound level, it's the XT45 420 up top and UT60 240 on the bottom setup.

The dual D5 XSPC res is a decent choice, it's a series only setup, so you can't do dual loops with it later if that's your intention, but 2 pumps running slower is quieter than 1 at max speed, has the same flow rate, and gives you redundancy.


And don't forget to factor in your ambient temp, especially if it's unusually high like it is here in the tropics.


Just some more stuff to think about for ya. . . . Good idea is to go back thru build logs and see which rads have been used and what the builder needed to do to make it fit.


Darlene

And to correct a bit of misinformation:

The RIVE, while it is an EATX board, which makes it a bit wider than an ATX board . . . . it is exactly the same length as standard ATX, so it does not encroach on the area above it under the rad at all, nor stick down below the 7th slot.
Edited by IT Diva - 5/15/13 at 5:12am
post #12062 of 13812
those are fantastic points, and i will surely try to think more broadly when a question appears. there are so many factors that i tend to overlook, unless its being addressed. but it all boils down to what the user ultimately wants or need. i recognize my carelessness and will try to implement being more specific and asking for details to find a better resolve.
Edited by Killa Cam - 5/15/13 at 5:06am
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post #12063 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by Killa Cam View Post

those are fantastic points, and i will surely try to think more broadly when a question appears. there are so many factors that i tend to overlook, unless its being addressed. but it all boils down to what the user ultimately wants or need. i recognize my carelessness and will try to implement being more specific and asking for details to find a better resolve.

A lot is incumbent on the builder / upgrader as well when asking questions.

The problem is, often times we don't know what we don't know, so we don't know what to ask, or how best to ask it, exactly.

More experienced builders that have spent time on the forums, often develop some ability to read between the lines, so to speak, which is helpful in getting a better feel for what a poster is actually looking to find out, and where he's coming from.


Balancing budget, performance level, noise level, available space, and expectations, is what it's all about, and there's no good way to make wise hardware choices until a builder has established those criteria, at least to some degree.


Darlene
post #12064 of 13812
While I don't own a RIVE I do own the MSI Big Bang XPower II and I am able to put push pull in the top with my SR1. So I would guess the RIVE should fit as well since the heatsink on the BB XP II is much larger than the one on the RIVE.

Best Pictures I have of that area:



Its a bit tight, but you can do it.
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post #12065 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by z0ki View Post

Want to update my Switch 810 and im curious

Would this be sufficient enough to cool a i7 3930k and 2x GTX 680 in SLI?


1) Top Rad: Black Ice SR1 360 Radiator 9fpi
2) Front Rad: XSPC RX240 Radiator 8fpi
3) Pump: XSPC Twin D5 Dual Bay Reservoir Pump Combo

Im reading mixed reports saying that it is no where near enough, and stating if i had a RX360 or something alike then i would be better off but i can't fit a RX360 in a switch 810 with a RIVE. So im out of options.. Seem's this case isn't as water cooling friendly as i once thought lol
You have received a number of responses already, but I don’t see that you mentioned how much your hardware is oced. There is a large difference in heat output with a mild to standard oc vs a really maxed oc.

I run a 3770k at 5.0 with 1.41v and it is a hotter than average 3770k, and a 690 which has two 680 chips in a very basic loop. I have an H220 with a Swiftech 320, 220, and 140 but I don’t think the 140 adds much. I have very good temps, even when I max out my oc on the 690.

I have NF-F12 fans at about 950rpm which is the slowest setting my bios has. Your rig is different, but with absolute max oc on my 3770k, dual gpu 690, the slowest fan setting possible, no push/pull, and just a 320+220+140 I get very good temps.

If you have very high overclocks you might not get great temps with your setup but it will definitely work, and I would think you would get reasonable temps.
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post #12066 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by z0ki View Post

Want to update my Switch 810 and im curious

Would this be sufficient enough to cool a i7 3930k and 2x GTX 680 in SLI?


1) Top Rad: Black Ice SR1 360 Radiator 9fpi
2) Front Rad: XSPC RX240 Radiator 8fpi
3) Pump: XSPC Twin D5 Dual Bay Reservoir Pump Combo

Im reading mixed reports saying that it is no where near enough, and stating if i had a RX360 or something alike then i would be better off but i can't fit a RX360 in a switch 810 with a RIVE. So im out of options.. Seem's this case isn't as water cooling friendly as i once thought lol

(My response is below)
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

No wonder everything seems sooooo confusing . . . . wheee.gif
Generalities are being stated as absolutes, end purpose is not being factored in, and any number of qualifiers are left unstated.
If there were 90mm above the mobo, then it would be a cinch to put any rad except a Monsta up there with standard 25mm thick fans in P-P.
It is not that much, it is in the lower 80's, which is why you have guys having difficulty to get some of the 60mm (or slightly over) 420 sized rads installed without mods to the top panel to remove the rolled edges and dimples.
All that problem goes away with 360 rads. . . . along with about 35% of the 420's cooling capacity.
Yes, the 360's stick down from the top just as far as the same rad in a 420 size, but being less wide, they give more clearance along the top of the mobo, as they sit farther above, (from the perspective of the case layed back on its side) so that all the EPS cables plug up OK.

Take away points: Any 360 is a drop in with an 810
A 420 has a lot more cooling capacity, and an SR1 has sufficient clearance and drops in, but you have to run the fittings to the front.
The XT45 420 is a popular install and works great, and fits right in . . (maybe have to drill 8 holes if it's not the new style top panel)
It depends on what you plan to use the rig for, and along with that, some personal criteria, as to how well that hardware can handle your needs.
If silence is a key criteria, but you want to have max overclocks and benchmark, you're looking at opposite ends of the spectrum, so you'd need massively more rad space to be effective with slow quiet fans.
If good gaming with decent overclocks is more the goal, and silence is not, then your hardware choices are getting more inline with real possibilities.
Point is here that the fans can be as important a consideration as any other bit of hardware, and you need to make all the choices based on a set of criteria, and an end goal.
The other question, if you're looking for performance, is why a rad in the front, and not on the bottom, where you have wayyy more room for a thicker 240, or with mods, a 280?
The switch has been around now for quite a while, and a lot of nice builds have been done in them which yields a lot of knowledge about what works well and what doesn't, to make good decisions for an upgrade on.
For the best all around setup for cooling capacity, ease of build, and allowable range of sound level, it's the XT45 420 up top and UT60 240 on the bottom setup.
The dual D5 XSPC res is a decent choice, it's a series only setup, so you can't do dual loops with it later if that's your intention, but 2 pumps running slower is quieter than 1 at max speed, has the same flow rate, and gives you redundancy.
And don't forget to factor in your ambient temp, especially if it's unusually high like it is here in the tropics.
Just some more stuff to think about for ya. . . . Good idea is to go back thru build logs and see which rads have been used and what the builder needed to do to make it fit.

Darlene

And to correct a bit of misinformation:
The RIVE, while it is an EATX board, which makes it a bit wider than an ATX board . . . . it is exactly the same length as standard ATX, so it does not encroach on the area above it under the rad at all, nor stick down below the 7th slot.


Darlene, as always, an excellent summation of going-on-a-year-and-a-half's worth of knowledge gained from this forum and, of course, turning your own Switch 810 into quite the masterpiece! smile.gif

Seriously, I agree with everything you said, but if I may, I've got a few things to add...


First, I am running a RIVE with a 420 radiator (XSPC EX420; 39.5mm thick, 19 split-fins per inch so there are two rows of fins between every pair of tubes instead of one row of fins) in the top, in Push-Pull, along with the UT60 240 in the bottom, again in Push-Pull, which are cooling a 3930K (OC'd right now to 4824Mhz @ 1.345v with VTT/VCCSA @ 1.750v, PLL @ 1.8125v, LLC @ "High", and vDIMM @ 1.665v for both ChAB+ChCD) and an EVGA GTX670 FTW 2GB (OC'd to 1293core and 1846mem/7384effective-memory, with Power Percentage @ 145% and Voltage @ 1.221v up from stock 1.1750v), cooled by a Swiftech Apogee HD (white) and a Heatkiller GPUx3 GTX680 "Hole Edition" Full-Coverage GPU Block with Backplate, respectively.

I have yet to see my CPU break 60C (idle: 19-28C depending on the core), and my GPU has never even hit 30C (idles @ 19-22C, fully-loaded it hits 27-29C)!!! Granted, I keep my ambient low via A/C, around 16-17.5C usually and sometimes more like 14.7-15.4C (hehe), but I am completely confident that adding a second 670FTW as well as the MIPS R4E MOSFET/VRM/SB Nickel/POM Block Kit to my loop would not raise my temps more than a couple of degrees. In fact, I am confident enough that I am going to be adding a second 670FTW and the MB block kit, and initially (or maybe permanently?) I will be doing it with the same exact amount of cooling as I have now.

A friend of mine has a Switch 810 as well (his is gunmetal, mine is white), but he went with a top-of-the-line Z77 build while I went with X79. His rig consists of a 3770K (OC'd @ 4.9Ghz 24/7 using 1.3325v; recently we de-lidded it and with PK1 between the die/IHS and between the IHS/Block, temps dropped between 19C and 29C per core during gaming, and between 23C and 35C in Prime95!!!) on a Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UP7 and an MSI GTX680 Lightning (OC'd to 1254core/6640effective-memory using Afterburner 2.2.4.'s unlocked voltage settings). He is using an XSPC Raystorm with the aluminum hold-down plate (instead of the plexiglass one that most come with) and an Aquacomputer aquagraFX 680 Lightning full-coverage GPU block.
The difference is that while I have an EX420 + UT60 240, he has an EX360 + UT60 240.... Also, while he is using Cougar PWM fans on all his radiators (in Push-Pull on both), I am using Bgears B-Blaster 140mm 1800rpm fans for the EX420 and Koolance 120x38mm 2600rpm 116cfm/6.33mmH2O fans with Phobya Shrouds (push-side are 20mm, pull-side are 7mm) on the UT60 240.

Considering the overclocks we each have, and his 680Ltg putting out more heat than my 670FTW while my 3930K puts out a lot more heat than his 3770K (measured in-line with the CPU power connectors and it's drawing around ~240W @ 100% load), we're actually pretty even in the amount of heat our computers generate.

Believe it or not, my loop is currently running at a Delta-T of ~0.9-1.1C Idle and ~3.45-3.82C Loaded, while his is running around ~3.8-5.1C Idle and 9.7-12.2C loaded. Considering his processor is less-able to dump heat into the water, and generates less heat at that, I'd say that's a pretty significant difference!
Sure, I have some serious fan power on my 240 rad, but even with them running at just 980-1070rpm my dT only goes up by about 0.4-0.6C idle and load!

The point of all this is:

*GO WITH THE 420 RADIATOR!!!*

You get a radiator that is:
- Bigger than a 360
- Bigger than 480 (yes, dimensionally it is bigger!)
- Is vastly more efficient than a 360/480
- The ratio of "used" radiator space to the amount of "unused" (aka the area swept by fans vs the area blocked by the fan frames or hubs) is significantly better for 140mm-based radiators, as a 420 and 480 rad compete in terms of total space but the 420 has to use only 3 fans (thus 3 hub dead-spots) while the 480 has four (and 4 hub dead spots)
- There ARE GOOD 140MM FANS AVAILABLE! You simply need to buy according to what you choose in terms of radiators... A 20-30fpi 50-60mm thick 420 radiator is NOT going to let you use quiet fans, just isn't going to work. On the other hand, something with 8-15fpi (XT45 is ~11-13fpi) will allow you to use relatively quiet fans (~1100-1500rpm is the sweet spot), and a set of 1200rpm fans in push-pull is ALWAYS better than a set of 1500rpm fans in just push/just pull.

Also, people are CONSTANTLY making a huge deal out of radiator thickness, to the point that you'd think that they thought it was their, errr, let's just say it comes across as a possible issue of "overcompensation" wink.gif The fact is, unless you're comparing a 27mm-thick radiator against an 84mm-thick radiator, there really is NOT ANY SIGNIFICANT DIFFERENCE between a thick radiator and a thin one, that are otherwise the same (i.e. same exact model, same construction, etc). In fact, if you have the choice between a thick radiator with just one set of fans and a thin or moderate-thickness (~27-39mm is "thin" and 40-54mm is "moderate-thickness" in my opinion, while anything thicker than that is "thick") radiator with push-pull fans, I would always recommend the latter. Push Pull simply makes far more of a difference than the thickness of the radiator.
Now, it's possible that we would see some "real" differences between varying radiator thicknesses if we were to test using push-pull Delta 252CFM/65mmH2O fans at their full, ear-splitting speed of ~6000rpm, so as to take airflow velocity out of the equation, but using "regular people fans" the fact is that the air absorbs too much heat too quickly while traveling through a thick radiator's fins in order to be able to effectively remove heat from the last half/third/whatever of the rad.


The radiators I would recommend, and which I KNOW work in Push-Pull in the top of the Switch 810, would be:
- XSPC EX420 (~38mm) *Note: 19split-fins-per-inch means it works very well with any fan speed ~1100rpm and up, and scales extremely well with fan speed
- Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 & ST30 (45mm & 30mm, respectively) *Note: Best bang for the Buck, alongside the XSPC EX series, as these excel at medium to low fan speed while still scaling better than anything but the EX at higher speeds; FULL COPPER
- HWLabs Black Ice GT Stealth 420 (31.3mm) *Note: 30fpi means it requires some not-insubstantial fan power!!
- Koolance 3x140 Copper 11fpi / 20fpi Radiators (~30mm) *Note: middle-of-the-pack performance, although choosing via FPI is a nice concept
- EK Coolstream XTC Radiator (~55mm) *Note: Designed to work with low-speed fans, but I don't personally like EK products
- Magicool Slim Profile 3X140mm Radiator (29mm) *Note: Extremely similar to the Black Ice but half the price; it's also the slimmest radiator here in terms of width, literally only as wide as the 140mm fan, at 463(L)x142(W)x29(D)mm; most radiators for 140mm fans are ~147-156mm in width
- HWLabs Black Ice SR-1 420 Radiator (55.9mm) *Note: 9fpi so designed for SLOW fans, but still needs push-pull to really perform; 153mm wide, so may or may not cause issues
- HWLabs Black Ice GTX Gen2 420 Radiator (54.7mm) *Note: 20fpi, so designed for FAST/HIGH PRESSURE fans and you really do need push-pull; it's 153mm wide as well

Now, the big issue is with the fan spacing. Most radiators use 15mm fan hole spacing, but the original Switch top had 20mm spacing, and HWLabs (and Thermochill) are the only radiators that use 20mm spacing on 140mm radiators. That said, they quickly revised the design of the top so now you can use either 15mm or 20mm spaced radiators.
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND going with a 15mm-spaced rad, as it will prevent a lot of headaches! The difference in length is just enough that the 15mm-spacing rads can have their fittings in the rear, which is not only far easier to route the tubing for, it's also going to save you probably $100 on fittings trying to do so!


For fans, static pressure is King! I recommend, or try to anyway, using a simple ratio of FPI to mmH2O when shopping for radiator fans... For ~7-13FPI, you want at least 2.0mmH2O; for ~14-18fpi you will want ~3.0mmH2O; for 19-24fpi you will want ~3.8mmH2O; and for 25-30fpi you will want 4.5mmH2O. These are "bottom line" numbers, so if you can go higher, do so! The greater the static pressure of the fan, the more air it is actually able to move through the fins of the radiator due to a lower percentage being lost overcoming the resistance of the fins. Also, higher static pressure fans tend to have a higher airflow velocity, which in turn enhances cooling by reducing/eliminating the boundary layer of air that forms on the fins, and the turbulent air allows heat to be shared amongst the air molecules much more evenly than in non-turbulent flow (where a boundary layer forms which is air that reaches it's maximum heat capacity relative to ambient but can't move, and thus the nice smooth air passing by gets heat transferred to it by these "stuck" molecules of air, never coming into contact with the copper/aluminum fins themselves; therefore, much of the air, the air in the "middle", remains cool while even the air on the "outside" isn't warmed up much because air is a terrible heat conductor!).


Oh, and I would recommend the Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 240 radiator for your second rad, and place it in the bottom so that you can keep your front intake fans (case airflow is JUST AS IMPORTANT when water cooling as when air cooling, as you're still air cooling most of your components!), not to mention the top HDD cage (and the "swivel fan" on the HDD cages are awesome, as they work in a "push pull" way with the front intake fans, allowing far more airflow into the case and over the HDD's than without using them; I've found them to drop HDD temps by 3-5C and case temps by 4-6C vs not using them!).


Hope this helps, and best of luck!
-nleksan
   
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WD10EALX 1TB HDD Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 1TB WD3200AAKS 320GB HDD WD5000HHTZ 10krpm 500GB VelociRaptor 
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
LG/Hitachi Slim DVD-R/W Custom MB-Backside VRM-sinks (Copper) 3x NZXT RF-FX140LB 1-2krpm 98.3CFM Case Fans 2x Corsair SP120-PE Case Fans 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Heatkiller GTX680 "Hole Edition" Block + Backplate XSPC Single-Bay Res (Single 5.25 bay) EK Multioption Res X2 - Advanced 150 DD "Fill-Port Res" + Fill-Port Fitting (Red) 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
2x MCP35X + Heatsinks/80x15mm Fan XSPC EX420 Alphacool NeXXos UT60 240 6x Bgears Blasters 140mm 1800rpm Fans 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
4x Koolance 120x25mm 2600rpm Fans Comp/Rotary Fittings (BP/XSPC/Monsoon) Primoflex Pro LRT - White (1/2x3/4) Windows 7 Professional 64bit  
MonitorMonitorMonitorMonitor
Dell P2210Hb 21.5" 1920x1080p Viewsonic VA2012WB 20.1" LCD 1680x1050 Dell U3014 Eizo 27" 1440p 10bit RGB-LED Backlit AH-IPS Panel 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
55" LG HDTV (their top 2014 model) Ducky Mechanical (Browns) NZXT HALE90 850W + 8 blown-up AX1200/i's NZXT Switch 810 (White) 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
R.A.T.3 + MX510 My Desk GRADO RS1i Headphones Grado PS1000 Headphones 
OtherOtherOtherOther
Bitfenix Hydra Pro Fan Controller 5ch 30W/ch Bitfenix Alchemy Individually-Sleeved Extension... NZXT Individually-Sleeved Front Panel Wires (Bl... Phobya Sleeved 1x3pin-to-4x3pin Fan Splitter 
OtherOtherOther
Sleeved Wires w Paracord myself (no Heatshrink) Custom Front and Top Panels w HexxMesh *In Prog... Working on Custom Pedestal Prototype 
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Z77 Bench-a-lot
(31 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 3930K @ 4.92Ghz Asus Rampage 4 Extreme EVGA GTX670 FTW 2GB  EVGA GTX780Ti Classified K|ngp|n Edition @ 1483... 
GraphicsRAMHard DriveHard Drive
EVGA GTX780Ti Classified K|ngp|n Edition @ 1483... 16GB G.Skill Ripjaws-Z @ DDR3-2248 9-10-9-26 1T Samsung 830 256GB SSD WD10EZEX 1TB HDD 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
WD10EALX 1TB HDD Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 1TB WD3200AAKS 320GB HDD WD5000HHTZ 10krpm 500GB VelociRaptor 
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
LG/Hitachi Slim DVD-R/W Custom MB-Backside VRM-sinks (Copper) 3x NZXT RF-FX140LB 1-2krpm 98.3CFM Case Fans 2x Corsair SP120-PE Case Fans 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Heatkiller GTX680 "Hole Edition" Block + Backplate XSPC Single-Bay Res (Single 5.25 bay) EK Multioption Res X2 - Advanced 150 DD "Fill-Port Res" + Fill-Port Fitting (Red) 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
2x MCP35X + Heatsinks/80x15mm Fan XSPC EX420 Alphacool NeXXos UT60 240 6x Bgears Blasters 140mm 1800rpm Fans 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
4x Koolance 120x25mm 2600rpm Fans Comp/Rotary Fittings (BP/XSPC/Monsoon) Primoflex Pro LRT - White (1/2x3/4) Windows 7 Professional 64bit  
MonitorMonitorMonitorMonitor
Dell P2210Hb 21.5" 1920x1080p Viewsonic VA2012WB 20.1" LCD 1680x1050 Dell U3014 Eizo 27" 1440p 10bit RGB-LED Backlit AH-IPS Panel 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
55" LG HDTV (their top 2014 model) Ducky Mechanical (Browns) NZXT HALE90 850W + 8 blown-up AX1200/i's NZXT Switch 810 (White) 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
R.A.T.3 + MX510 My Desk GRADO RS1i Headphones Grado PS1000 Headphones 
OtherOtherOtherOther
Bitfenix Hydra Pro Fan Controller 5ch 30W/ch Bitfenix Alchemy Individually-Sleeved Extension... NZXT Individually-Sleeved Front Panel Wires (Bl... Phobya Sleeved 1x3pin-to-4x3pin Fan Splitter 
OtherOtherOther
Sleeved Wires w Paracord myself (no Heatshrink) Custom Front and Top Panels w HexxMesh *In Prog... Working on Custom Pedestal Prototype 
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post #12067 of 13812
I gotta be honest. I just stumbled in here from the live feed on the front page...but that right there^ must have taken a good amount of time to compose. +rep For the amount of work that went into that, and the fact that you make some very good points. thumb.gif
post #12068 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCModderMike View Post

I gotta be honest. I just stumbled in here from the live feed on the front page...but that right there^ must have taken a good amount of time to compose. +rep For the amount of work that went into that, and the fact that you make some very good points. thumb.gif

And people said my crazy ramblings would never get me anywhere! :O

wink.gif

But for reals, thanks! thumb.gif
   
Z77 Bench-a-lot
(31 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 3930K @ 4.92Ghz Asus Rampage 4 Extreme EVGA GTX670 FTW 2GB  EVGA GTX780Ti Classified K|ngp|n Edition @ 1483... 
GraphicsRAMHard DriveHard Drive
EVGA GTX780Ti Classified K|ngp|n Edition @ 1483... 16GB G.Skill Ripjaws-Z @ DDR3-2248 9-10-9-26 1T Samsung 830 256GB SSD WD10EZEX 1TB HDD 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
WD10EALX 1TB HDD Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 1TB WD3200AAKS 320GB HDD WD5000HHTZ 10krpm 500GB VelociRaptor 
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
LG/Hitachi Slim DVD-R/W Custom MB-Backside VRM-sinks (Copper) 3x NZXT RF-FX140LB 1-2krpm 98.3CFM Case Fans 2x Corsair SP120-PE Case Fans 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Heatkiller GTX680 "Hole Edition" Block + Backplate XSPC Single-Bay Res (Single 5.25 bay) EK Multioption Res X2 - Advanced 150 DD "Fill-Port Res" + Fill-Port Fitting (Red) 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
2x MCP35X + Heatsinks/80x15mm Fan XSPC EX420 Alphacool NeXXos UT60 240 6x Bgears Blasters 140mm 1800rpm Fans 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
4x Koolance 120x25mm 2600rpm Fans Comp/Rotary Fittings (BP/XSPC/Monsoon) Primoflex Pro LRT - White (1/2x3/4) Windows 7 Professional 64bit  
MonitorMonitorMonitorMonitor
Dell P2210Hb 21.5" 1920x1080p Viewsonic VA2012WB 20.1" LCD 1680x1050 Dell U3014 Eizo 27" 1440p 10bit RGB-LED Backlit AH-IPS Panel 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
55" LG HDTV (their top 2014 model) Ducky Mechanical (Browns) NZXT HALE90 850W + 8 blown-up AX1200/i's NZXT Switch 810 (White) 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
R.A.T.3 + MX510 My Desk GRADO RS1i Headphones Grado PS1000 Headphones 
OtherOtherOtherOther
Bitfenix Hydra Pro Fan Controller 5ch 30W/ch Bitfenix Alchemy Individually-Sleeved Extension... NZXT Individually-Sleeved Front Panel Wires (Bl... Phobya Sleeved 1x3pin-to-4x3pin Fan Splitter 
OtherOtherOther
Sleeved Wires w Paracord myself (no Heatshrink) Custom Front and Top Panels w HexxMesh *In Prog... Working on Custom Pedestal Prototype 
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Z77 Bench-a-lot
(31 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 3930K @ 4.92Ghz Asus Rampage 4 Extreme EVGA GTX670 FTW 2GB  EVGA GTX780Ti Classified K|ngp|n Edition @ 1483... 
GraphicsRAMHard DriveHard Drive
EVGA GTX780Ti Classified K|ngp|n Edition @ 1483... 16GB G.Skill Ripjaws-Z @ DDR3-2248 9-10-9-26 1T Samsung 830 256GB SSD WD10EZEX 1TB HDD 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
WD10EALX 1TB HDD Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 1TB WD3200AAKS 320GB HDD WD5000HHTZ 10krpm 500GB VelociRaptor 
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
LG/Hitachi Slim DVD-R/W Custom MB-Backside VRM-sinks (Copper) 3x NZXT RF-FX140LB 1-2krpm 98.3CFM Case Fans 2x Corsair SP120-PE Case Fans 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Heatkiller GTX680 "Hole Edition" Block + Backplate XSPC Single-Bay Res (Single 5.25 bay) EK Multioption Res X2 - Advanced 150 DD "Fill-Port Res" + Fill-Port Fitting (Red) 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
2x MCP35X + Heatsinks/80x15mm Fan XSPC EX420 Alphacool NeXXos UT60 240 6x Bgears Blasters 140mm 1800rpm Fans 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
4x Koolance 120x25mm 2600rpm Fans Comp/Rotary Fittings (BP/XSPC/Monsoon) Primoflex Pro LRT - White (1/2x3/4) Windows 7 Professional 64bit  
MonitorMonitorMonitorMonitor
Dell P2210Hb 21.5" 1920x1080p Viewsonic VA2012WB 20.1" LCD 1680x1050 Dell U3014 Eizo 27" 1440p 10bit RGB-LED Backlit AH-IPS Panel 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
55" LG HDTV (their top 2014 model) Ducky Mechanical (Browns) NZXT HALE90 850W + 8 blown-up AX1200/i's NZXT Switch 810 (White) 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
R.A.T.3 + MX510 My Desk GRADO RS1i Headphones Grado PS1000 Headphones 
OtherOtherOtherOther
Bitfenix Hydra Pro Fan Controller 5ch 30W/ch Bitfenix Alchemy Individually-Sleeved Extension... NZXT Individually-Sleeved Front Panel Wires (Bl... Phobya Sleeved 1x3pin-to-4x3pin Fan Splitter 
OtherOtherOther
Sleeved Wires w Paracord myself (no Heatshrink) Custom Front and Top Panels w HexxMesh *In Prog... Working on Custom Pedestal Prototype 
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post #12069 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

And people said my crazy ramblings would never get me anywhere! :O

wink.gif

But for reals, thanks! thumb.gif

crazy ramblings? haha... crazy to some, interesting to others. You have pointed out some things I overlook quite often. thumb.gif
post #12070 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

... recently we de-lidded it and with PK1 between the die/IHS and between the IHS/Block, temps dropped between 19C and 29C per core during gaming, and between 23C and 35C in Prime95!!!)
-nleksan
Off topic, but he will most likely get pump out at some point with that TIM in between the die and IHS. I have yet to see anyone with long term success that didn’t use a liquid metal TIM on the die.
Ivy 5.0
(14 items)
 
Ivy 4.8
(15 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-3770k 5.0 24/7 Maximus V Formula EVGA GTX 690 G.Skill Trident X 2400 (2x8gb) 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 840 Pro 512GB Pioneer BD-RW Swiftech H220 Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
2 x NEC 30" Logitech G15 Corsair AX1200 NZXT Switch 810 
MouseAudio
Logitech G9x Logitech G51 
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Ivy 5.0
(14 items)
 
Ivy 4.8
(15 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-3770k 5.0 24/7 Maximus V Formula EVGA GTX 690 G.Skill Trident X 2400 (2x8gb) 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 840 Pro 512GB Pioneer BD-RW Swiftech H220 Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
2 x NEC 30" Logitech G15 Corsair AX1200 NZXT Switch 810 
MouseAudio
Logitech G9x Logitech G51 
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