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Official NZXT Switch 810 thread - Page 459

Poll Results: Which Color Version are you buying

Poll expired: Feb 28, 2012  
  • 58% (44)
    White/Black
  • 41% (31)
    Black/black
75 Total Votes  
post #4581 of 12321
From what I have read in articles and forums around the web the difference would be small and most likely only 1-3 degrees. If you are really concerned about temps and want to squeeze out every single degree possible then pulling in cooler outside air over both rads would be better. I haven't finished my build yet (still waiting on a few parts and fittings) but once its done maybe I'll do some tests and comparisons if I can muster up the ambition and have the time. I currently have my build set up to intake from the bottom 240mm rad (P/P) and 2 front 140mm fans and the top 420 rad (P/P) is exhausting out the top along with the rear 140mm fan.
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post #4582 of 12321
Quote:
Originally Posted by scar69 View Post

From what I have read in articles and forums around the web the difference would be small and most likely only 1-3 degrees. If you are really concerned about temps and want to squeeze out every single degree possible then pulling in cooler outside air over both rads would be better. I haven't finished my build yet (still waiting on a few parts and fittings) but once its done maybe I'll do some tests and comparisons if I can muster up the ambition and have the time. I currently have my build set up to intake from the bottom 240mm rad (P/P) and 2 front 140mm fans and the top 420 rad (P/P) is exhausting out the top along with the rear 140mm fan.

Yeah I want to make a comparison thread with the switch when im done my build , I still need to find myself an RX240 for the bottom, I have time before I get back to canada to build my switch so if I can have a used one mailed to canada before I get there , otherwise ill get a new one
    
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post #4583 of 12321
Deleted
Edited by IT Diva - 9/12/12 at 1:03pm
post #4584 of 12321
Quote:
Originally Posted by simonfredette View Post


Agreed !

I would recommend this as well... lways push cold air trough the rad and into the case.

I was told otherwise the first time i started WC, but I got a tip from the guy who owns Norwauys only rel WC shop, ( he's a veteran in ****..50+ yrs old ) to push cold air in (or pull in...)..my old 2500K with a 30mm thick 240 rad went down 7 degrees celsius.

GL:)
 
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post #4585 of 12321
Just ordered me 2 of these!!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.evga.com/products/moreInfo.asp?pn=02G-P4-2687-KR&family=GeForce%20600%20Series%20Family&sw=

Like actually ordered. Didn't just tell someone to order them for me.
NO WAY I'M GETTING TROLLED NOW


Now a couple questions.
Do you guys know which backplates fit which blocks?
Or do they only work for their respective companies?
Since I can't find the EK Acetal+EN blocks anywhere, I was thinking of getting the Heatkiller blocks and going with the EK backplate. Would that work?

Thanks for the help. =)
No name yet. =(
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No name yet. =(
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post #4586 of 12321
Quote:
Originally Posted by ProjectPwnage View Post

Just ordered me 2 of these!!!!!!!!!!!
http://www.evga.com/products/moreInfo.asp?pn=02G-P4-2687-KR&family=GeForce%20600%20Series%20Family&sw=
Like actually ordered. Didn't just tell someone to order them for me.
NO WAY I'M GETTING TROLLED NOW
Now a couple questions.
Do you guys know which backplates fit which blocks?
Or do they only work for their respective companies?
Since I can't find the EK Acetal+EN blocks anywhere, I was thinking of getting the Heatkiller blocks and going with the EK backplate. Would that work?
Thanks for the help. =)

I dont think you will find the EK water block for it soon either, with the switch to the new design were stuck waiting for them and then deciding if we can stomach the new design the heatkillers are nice , just try to find the screw placement on both and make sure none of them coincide
    
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post #4587 of 12321
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post #4588 of 12321
Quote:
Originally Posted by scar69 View Post

This article says negative case pressure is best
http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/effective-air-cooling-guide-part-ii-myths-old-rituals-and-analysis.180883/

Yeah I had seen that already but now were talking watercooling and negative pressure with watercooling means your blowing the hot air through the rads and I think a full out detailed comparison would be awesome but from experience so far anytime I run warmed air through rads I increase temps, components still cooled by air like vrm's might not cool as well as with negative pressure but most watercoolers want to get the best results on their watercooled components. Good link though to keep around hadnt seen it in a while
    
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post #4589 of 12321
Quote:
Originally Posted by scar69 View Post

From what I have read in articles and forums around the web the difference would be small and most likely only 1-3 degrees. If you are really concerned about temps and want to squeeze out every single degree possible then pulling in cooler outside air over both rads would be better. I haven't finished my build yet (still waiting on a few parts and fittings) but once its done maybe I'll do some tests and comparisons if I can muster up the ambition and have the time. I currently have my build set up to intake from the bottom 240mm rad (P/P) and 2 front 140mm fans and the top 420 rad (P/P) is exhausting out the top along with the rear 140mm fan.

Quote:
Originally Posted by simonfredette View Post

Yeah I want to make a comparison thread with the switch when im done my build , I still need to find myself an RX240 for the bottom, I have time before I get back to canada to build my switch so if I can have a used one mailed to canada before I get there , otherwise ill get a new one

I would be interested in that comparison for sure if you are able to do it. Most out there would argue exhausting out the top is better. Me personally, everything was intake, except for the top rad which was exhausting. Common sense says heat rises, kind of hard to go against that and try and force and down and into the case. I know it's a "heated" debate, no pun intended, and I don't want to step on anyone's toes, but I think for optimal flow most people exhaust the top. I guess if you are a true enthusiast and trying to squeeze every last degree possible, as scar69 said you might gain 1-3 degrees by using the top as an intake.

EDIT: Love him or hate him, you've got to respect the fact that TTL has been in the game for a very long time, and has tons of experience, even he says he runs all his top rads exhausting.
@13:00
Edited by PCModderMike - 6/9/12 at 4:38pm
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post #4590 of 12321
Quote:
Originally Posted by simonfredette View Post

Yeah I had seen that already but now were talking watercooling and negative pressure with watercooling means your blowing the hot air through the rads and I think a full out detailed comparison would be awesome but from experience so far anytime I run warmed air through rads I increase temps, components still cooled by air like vrm's might not cool as well as with negative pressure but most watercoolers want to get the best results on their watercooled components. Good link though to keep around hadnt seen it in a while

I can see the reasoning for putting the radiator as an intake at the top, but my main concern would be dust getting into the case through the top. Dust that settles on the top if the case will constantly be getting sucked into the case. Ive already got dust all over the grill at the front of the case where I have intakes and its only been running for 3-4 weeks. For that reason alone I think I'm going to put my top radiator as an exhaust when I finally put my water cooling loop together in 2 weeks time.
Edited by eotheod - 6/9/12 at 5:26pm
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