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Official NZXT Switch 810 thread - Page 485

Poll Results: Which Color Version are you buying

Poll expired: Feb 28, 2012  
  • 58% (44)
    White/Black
  • 41% (31)
    Black/black
75 Total Votes  
post #4841 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Pump controller worked out nicely so far. Actually posted some pics in the water cooling forum showing the PWM waveform on the scope and the frequency on the freq counter at various speeds.
But back to the blown controller,
The blown parts are most likely bipolar transistors or mosfets. The package shape is called TO-220, and it's been around for decades for thru hole component mounting. While there are other parts that come in that package, like voltage regulators and back to back diodes, they usually are transitors or mosfets, which is a different type constuction of transistor.
Lamptron, like a lot of other mfgrs likes to sand the surface markings off the chips to make it difficult to repair / reverse engineer the product.
If you can solder, or have a friend who can, try replacing the blown chips with TIP120 transistors you can find at Radio Shack. If you're really worried about your PSU, run it off a battery untill you know if it works. Worst case scenario is that it still doesn't work,but the parts are cheap, so no real loss for trying.
or you can try for an RMA
Darlene

I dug out an old 500W psu and using the y-cables hooked up all the fans the exact same way and everything works fine so I guess the cables aren't at fault. Any ideas?
post #4842 of 13812
I can start one...
Or someone else...
post #4843 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyg0od33 View Post

I can start one...
Or someone else...

Yea someone should. I would if I had my rig up and running with pics but that won't be till next week.
post #4844 of 13812
Here ya go
http://www.overclock.net/t/1270406/nzxt-switch-810-photo-gallery

I figure if it's slow going as just the switch I can change it to an nzxt gallery...
post #4845 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyg0od33 View Post

Here ya go
http://www.overclock.net/t/1270406/nzxt-switch-810-photo-gallery
I figure if it's slow going as just the switch I can change it to an nzxt gallery...

Sweet thumb.gif.
post #4846 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by scar69 View Post

I dug out an old 500W psu and using the y-cables hooked up all the fans the exact same way and everything works fine so I guess the cables aren't at fault. Any ideas?

I dont think it was the Y-cable itself that was the problem , I think its that your using the Y cable , I dont think that fan controller can take that many fans in the first place , if its made for 2 fans per channel max and you put 4 something is going to blow and its going to be the weakest link. Try to see if you can find out how many Watts your fans are at top speed
    
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LG GH24NS90 Black  Corsair H100 CPU water cooler  Windows 7 Home Premium LG 23 " LED 3 ms  
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post #4847 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by simonfredette View Post

I dont think it was the Y-cable itself that was the problem , I think its that your using the Y cable , I dont think that fan controller can take that many fans in the first place , if its made for 2 fans per channel max and you put 4 something is going to blow and its going to be the weakest link. Try to see if you can find out how many Watts your fans are at top speed

Bitfenix 140mm 0.18A x 12V = 2.16W
Bitfenix 120mm 0.11A x 12V = 1.32W
NZXT 140mm 2.88W
Silverstone AP141 140mm 0.22A x 12V = 2.64W

The top rad has 3 Bitfenix 140's (6.48W) and 3 NZXT 140's (8.64W) on a 6 way y-cable total power draw 15.12W
The bottom rad has 4 Bitfenix 120's on a 4 way y-cable total power draw 5.28W
The remaining case fans, 2 bitfenix 140's (4.32W) in the front, 1 NZXT (2.88W) on the rear and the AP141 (2.64W) on the drive bay. Total power draw 9.84W

If any channel was gonna blow it should have been channel 1 with the 6 fans. Its got me baffled. I already got a reply and an RMA number and dropped the controller off at Purolator. I don't know what to do though. Should I get another FC6 sent or request a refund and look for something else?

This guy was pulling more watts than me and he had no problems
http://www.overclock.net/t/760171/lamptron-fc6-box-10w-typo-proof-on-page-2-post-18/10#post_9765244
post #4848 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by scar69 View Post

Okay now I'm starting to get a little frustrated. I checked the mail and my FC6 fan controller was there. I set it all up and started to test it. On channel 1 I had the 6 140mm fans from my top rad, channel 2 had 4 120mm fans from the bottom rad and channel 3 had the 4 140mm case fans. I turned up channel 1...its all good, turned up channel 2...a ok, turned up channel 3 and heard a loud POP and instantly smelled something burning so I killed the power. Pulled out the controller and here is what I found
450
450

if you wanted you could use this fan controller...Sunbeam Rheobus... 30 watts per channel and i modded it into my case and changed the LEDs and i have had no problems with it at all...Just a thought Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hartk1213 View Post

well yesterday i was looking at my Switch and i saw my fan controller and even though it was black didnt quite go with the case all to well so this is what i did
194
here is what it looked like when i bought it..it originally can with bright blue LEDs but i switched them over to red to match my theme
450
first i cut off the front metal faceplate of the original fan controller
700
took the 5.25" cover off
450
grinded out the inside with a dremel
450
drilled holes...i kinda messed up on one and made it a little to big....oops you really cant tell once its installed
700
all put back together
700
ya i know its dusty in the pic its been cleaned since i saw that haha i didnt realize how bad it was
450
here it is all lit up and matches the rest of the case perfectly
The Prodigy
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The Prodigy
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Dream Rig Contest
(11 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
[AMD] Athlon II x2 255 [Gigabyte] GA-78LMT-SP2 [Onboard] ATI Radeon 3000 [Crucial] Ballistix 8GB (2x4GB) 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
[Western Digital] Blue 320GB [Maxtor] 320GB soon to be adding 4TB from WD Red [Lite-On] DVD Player/Burner 
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post #4849 of 13812
yeah looks like it shouldnt have been an issue at all, just a hardware issue I guess , RMA shouldnt be an issue otherwise could be an easy fix if you have the tools
    
CPUMotherboardRAMHard Drive
i7 960 Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R Socket 1366 Intel X58  Corsair Vengeance 12 GB triple channel 1600 MHZ  Wester Digital Caviar Green  
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
LG GH24NS90 Black  Corsair H100 CPU water cooler  Windows 7 Home Premium LG 23 " LED 3 ms  
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Microsoft Wireless  OCZ-ZT750W fully Modular 80-PLus Bronze  NZXT Guardian 921 Blue LED  Microsoft Wireless  
Audio
Bose Companion 3 Series  
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Reply
    
CPUMotherboardRAMHard Drive
i7 960 Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R Socket 1366 Intel X58  Corsair Vengeance 12 GB triple channel 1600 MHZ  Wester Digital Caviar Green  
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
LG GH24NS90 Black  Corsair H100 CPU water cooler  Windows 7 Home Premium LG 23 " LED 3 ms  
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Microsoft Wireless  OCZ-ZT750W fully Modular 80-PLus Bronze  NZXT Guardian 921 Blue LED  Microsoft Wireless  
Audio
Bose Companion 3 Series  
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Reply
post #4850 of 13812
Quote:
if you wanted you could use this fan controller...Sunbeam Rheobus... 30 watts per channel and i modded it into my case and changed the LEDs and i have had no problems with it at all...Just a thought
Thanks for the suggestion but I don't care for the looks of that one and I really prefer one with a digital readout. Then I can always add temp probes into my loop in the future.

edit - @Hartk1213 I just noticed your fan avatar is rotating the wrong direction...lol wink.gif
Edited by scar69 - 6/15/12 at 1:51pm
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