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Official NZXT Switch 810 thread - Page 620

Poll Results: Which Color Version are you buying

Poll expired: Feb 28, 2012  
  • 58% (44)
    White/Black
  • 41% (31)
    Black/black
75 Total Votes  
post #6191 of 13812
I cut that piece off with my dremel. That was the only part that really pissed me off while working on the case. There are holes down there for a 280 also, but i have no idea how that would even be considered without having to mod lol. when everyone says it fits a 360/240 "no problem" I tend to disagree, because I couldnt fir my 240 without cutting that part
post #6192 of 13812
Deleted
Edited by IT Diva - 9/12/12 at 9:48am
post #6193 of 13812
Deleted
Edited by IT Diva - 9/12/12 at 9:48am
post #6194 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Well dang, on my Switch, it's on the wire pair with the seperated end with two single pin connectors; P LED + and P LED -
Being next to the power on switch, it seems it would be the power on led.
On mine, the big curved shape light pipe is on the wires with the single 2 pin connector marked HDD LED
Recheck your connections at the mobo, and try reversing the connetor, as leds are polarity sensitive.
Darlene

I'll try reversing it in a little bit, hopefully that is the case.
Thanks for the suggestion
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Pho
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post #6195 of 13812
Thanks for the help guys. =)

I would get a Dremel but this build is a bit over budget as it is. And I'm ordering some wire extensions and fan cables today too.

I'm glad to hear that at least it can be done with a drill.
I'm gonna do that for now and clean it up later when I eventually buy a Dremel.
No name yet. =(
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No name yet. =(
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post #6196 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

You could try a carbide bit like they use with rotary tools like the Roto-Zip, but I'm not sure if the drill's max rpm is enough to make it work very well. Roto-Zips and similar tools are very high rpm, compared to a drill.
Drilling a series of smaller holes and then "wallowing out between them" is the old time ghetto way of doing stuff like you want to do, and it you do it patiently, and go back with a sanding drum in the drill and dress the cut, it might not look too bad, considering.
On the other hand, maybe it's fate telling you it's time to buy a Dremel
In truth though, why not get a standard flow rad, the plumbing is going to be way easier and you don't need to hack up the case.
That would really be a hack, as compared to being considered a mod.
Here's one of the cleaner mods that allow for the placement of a 280 in that location:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1222267/nzxt-switch-810-420-280-build/30#post_16618965
Darlene

I have one of the multiport rads, which is kind of like an xflow (mines vertical, so I have tubes routed on both sides), and its actually like a dream come true lol.
Made routing SO much easier. My opinion
post #6197 of 13812
I can't figure out how to get my I/O lights working on the back. Anyone have a picture of where I connect or what I connect to get the lights working?
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post #6198 of 13812
sata power plug coming from the front panel plug that to a SATA from the PSU. then under the flap where the USB ports are, theres a very small button near a larger one. te larger one is reset, the tiny one is for the I/O lightes
post #6199 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by Degree View Post

Well dang, I thought I did everything right..
Looks like I have to find out how to get it working.
EDIT: Alright it seems like my HDD light is broken, it's connected correctly to my mobo.
Oh well.. could it be because I have an SSD and HDD, or it shouldn't matter?

TBH, I haven't seen a HDD light on one of these cases that actually worked. Its been mentioned in a few reviews too. I've tried mine both ways and it does nothing. My old gloss black switch was the same way. I don't find it to be a big deal since its on top of that monster tower so I can't see it to begin with.
post #6200 of 13812
mine works biggrin.gif
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