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Official NZXT Switch 810 thread - Page 716

Poll Results: Which Color Version are you buying

Poll expired: Feb 28, 2012  
  • 58% (44)
    White/Black
  • 41% (31)
    Black/black
75 Total Votes  
post #7151 of 13812
Deleted
Edited by IT Diva - 9/12/12 at 9:04am
post #7152 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ervin87 View Post

Too bad the LEDs on the Raystorm died after less than a day....and PCSPerformance are being dicks about replacing them. They want me to send the whole kit back...**** that. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for these? XSPC reps aren't responding...

You can buy new LED's from PPC's, but I believe they might be 5mm instead of 3, though they might have 3mm too. Pretty sure they are brighter than the stock ones anyway.
post #7153 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

I shoehorned the Black Ice GT Extreme 420 in the top with push - pull, and the GT-X 240 on the bottom with only one HDD cage removed, so there is a lot of room in the switch.
I have a RIVE mobo with ram, chipset, mosfet, and CPU blocks, so it can be done.

dumb and dumber gif, So you're telling me there's a chance? YYEEEAH!

I like where your build is going, I think ThoughtA will certainly have to do an external radiator setup as you said. I am, and I don't even need to.
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post #7154 of 13812
The LED's on the raystorm are 3mm. I bout a different color LED's for my Raystom and one of them was bad. I did not think it was worth RMA'ing a $3.50 part so I decided to fix it with a spare LED that I had laying around. If you are pretty handy, you can go out and buy some LED's at radio shack. Basically I cut off the heat shrink, pulled off the sleeving, cut the old LED off, tested the resistor, solder on the new LED, and re-sleeve and heat shrink.
post #7155 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ervin87 View Post

Too bad the LEDs on the Raystorm died after less than a day....and PCSPerformance are being dicks about replacing them. They want me to send the whole kit back...**** that. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for these? XSPC reps aren't responding...

Raystorm uses 3mm leds. You can get them here.

Great looking build btw. thumb.gif Only critique is the tube from the GPU to the lower radiator looks like it is about to kink.
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post #7156 of 13812
Bad LEDs, those things dont go bad easy. I wonder XSPC is using some good resistors in there or not.
post #7157 of 13812
Thanks for the link kj1060 thumb.gif. That's exactly what I was looking for. As far as the tube going to the gpu is concerned, it actually just looks kinked from that angle. I insured that it's not, however. Maybe this is a better picture

img12651.jpg
Edited by Ervin87 - 8/28/12 at 10:01am
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post #7158 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Here's the part you really need to pay attention to:
When you go for a tri or quad GPU setup, assuming 7970's or 680's or similar heat producers, there's NO Frickin' Way you can cool that much hardware decently with internal only rads. It isn't gonna happen, period.
Since you know in advance, that you're going to need to go with external cooling, you can begin to look at the CPU and mobo loop a little differently than if it was going to cool a GPU too.
A full thickness (60mm) 360 will be ok for about any single CPU you can throw at it. If you add a 240 on the bottom, you can manage the CPU and 1 GPU with plenty of headroom so you can do some overclocking and hold the temps in check.
There are builds with a 360 or a 420 with a 240 on the bottom with Xfire of sli (2 GPUs) and as long as the ambients are reasonable, it seems to work OK with stock or mild O clocks. But keep in mind, that they are typically 2500K/2600K SB builds.
With the SBE, especially the hex cores, the CPU and 1 GPU is about all you can reasonably expect to cool well with internal hardware.
Now comes issue number 2, with tri / quad GPU setups . . . . . . . . Power . . .
You can run a SBE and up to 2 hi-end GPUs with a 1000W PSU with plenty of overhead for overclocking, fans, lighting, drives, etc.
You can run up to 3 hi-end GPUs with that 1000W PSU if you're willing to sacrifice some if not most, of that OC overhead.
If you're seriously looking at quad GPUs, go immediately to the 1250W PSU line, don't dick around with the 1000W units.
Now let's look at how both issues inter-relate:
That 1250W PSU is gonna cramp the space in the bottom of the case, it'll be a shoehorn job to get that 240 in down there, where it would have been easy with a 1000W PSU.
You still need to supply power out to the 9 or 18 fans on your remote rad, as well as pump power for that second loop.
Once you add up the power requirements of all the fans and pumps, you're likely well over 100W and maybe closer to twice that depending on pump and fan choices.
The Switch is one of my favorite cases, but it's not a rolling storeroom, so you have to really think things out in advance if you're contemplating a big-dog build in one. There's only so much room inside, and what you put outside, has to interface nicely with what's inside.
Hopefully, you'll ask more questions and take advice from those who've already been there-done that, and pay less heed to the know it alls who more often than not, give out wishfull thinking and fantasy wish projection as legitimate advice.
Have fun with your builds, you're planning rather similar builds to mine, and I've solved a lot of problems you haven't imagined yet.
Darlene

Wow. Thanks for such a thorough answer. I'm rather inclined to believe you. When you say cooling the hardware decently, what are your standards for "decently?" I imagine by your word-use that you mean to any sort of temperature that isn't unhealthy, but I'd like to be sure. My only goal is to be able to run 3 or 4 7970's as temperatures that aren't unhealthy, so 60s, maybe 70s, though I'd like some damn quiet too biggrin.gif

The CPU will be a 3820 that will likely remain at stock clocks, and my 7970s will most likely have (unfortunately) only a light OC (1100/1500), as one of my chips seems to have a low hard ceiling on OC frown.gif

I'd already planned to get a fat PSU in there, so I was feeling doubtful regarding the size radiator I could put on the bottom. I was planning getting a Raystorm RX240 kit and a separate 420mm rad up top, but now I'm not sure if I should get a Raystorm 360 kit or not get a kit at all or what.

If the only thing you're using externally are radiators, are they much of a pain to set up, or is as simple as run the tubes out of the case and connect them to the radiators?
post #7159 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ervin87 View Post

Thanks for the link kj1060 thumb.gif. That's exactly what I was looking for. Too bad PerformancePCS are greedy bastards and won't send me a free replacement mad.gif. That's probably the last thing I'll buy from them. As far as the tube going to the gpu is concerned, it actually just looks kinked from that angle. I insured that it's not, however. Maybe this is a better picture

Definitely a better picture. thumb.gif

Looking at your build again: you may consider, next time you drain and fill it, to run from res/pump -> CPU -> 360 -> GPU (all assuming you flow is res/pump -> 360 -> CPU -> GPU -> 240 -> res). Only reason is for aesthetics, I personally like less tubing crossing when I can get away with it, but whatever look you are happy with it is the right way to go. biggrin.gif

Once again great job. specool.gif
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post #7160 of 13812
That was the original plan actually but for some reason I thought that the buttom fitting was the inlet and the top was the outlet but I'm not sure if it even matters since I haven't seen an inlet/outlet sign on the GPU block unlike the CPU block (someone correct me if I'm wrong). Currently I'm running my 3770k stable at 4.8ghz and a vcore of 1.32v with a max temp of 71C on load. I can probably push a bit more out of it but I'll wait the 200 hours set-time for the Arctic silver...perhaps the temps drop by a few degrees.


http://imageshack.us/f/222/stresstest2.png/
Edited by Ervin87 - 8/28/12 at 12:17am
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