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Official NZXT Switch 810 thread - Page 771

Poll Results: Which Color Version are you buying

Poll expired: Feb 28, 2012  
  • 58% (44)
    White/Black
  • 41% (31)
    Black/black
75 Total Votes  
post #7701 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHerman330 View Post

+1 rep for the illustration. That is a really tight fit. I might have to go with a different, shorter psu. I'm not sure I want my cable bent like that. The search continues for a suitable psu. Although the black ice stealth 240 is 11mm shorter than your xspc. hmmm... I doubt that is enough to make any difference.

Talking about PSUs and Sleeving, when I was looking I came across this thread and found a recommendation from Lutro0 for whats best for first time sleevers. Hope this helps - LINK
post #7702 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCModderMike View Post

Might want to be careful with that. From my experience, the Dremel doesn't do so well with cutting acrylic or plastics, at least large cuts that you want to be as clean as possible. If you don't have a table saw, might want to look at getting a jigsaw. That's what I use for large cuts that I want to be as straight as possible. With the Dremel, you gotta worry about trying to keep the cut straight, also if you have a Dremel model where the RPM isn't adjustable, that thing spins so fast instead of cutting it melts. Just my 2cents.gifsmile.gif

Yeah, I also have a router attachment that I think I could use for this. I could do it manually, I'm really good at keeping things even as most of my practice with it before was fine precision engraving and carving. And yeah, I have two with adjustable RPM.
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post #7703 of 13812
Thread Starter 
There are plastic cutting discs that work well with a dremel.
post #7704 of 13812
Yeah in my experience this past week dremel only works well for sending. the saw attachment was impossible to control with any accuracy!
post #7705 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHerman330 View Post

+1 rep for the illustration. That is a really tight fit. I might have to go with a different, shorter psu. I'm not sure I want my cable bent like that. The search continues for a suitable psu. Although the black ice stealth 240 is 11mm shorter than your xspc. hmmm... I doubt that is enough to make any difference.

I supposedly get my package on Tuesday. I'll get a pic of the UT60 installed that night.
post #7706 of 13812
A little blurb about acrylic cuts,
If you have access to a table saw or power saw and you're in the US, Lowes has a couple of saw blades, which depending on what kind of table saw or power saw you have, work very well with no chipping.
The Lowes part numbers are 244131 & 23213. One is a 10 inch 180 tooth blade and the other is a 7 1/4 inch 96 tooth blade. Actually I mostly use the 7 1/4" in my table saw.
Both these blades are less than $13 each and as long as you don't use them for cutting wood and other things they should last a while.
You could use a new plywood saw blade and you might or might not get some slight edge chipping.
As with making fine cuts in wood you will generally want to set the blade height only slightly higher than the sheet you are cutting.

I also use a jigsaw with a 20+ tooth count metal blade.

If you need to join pieces together on the edge you will probably want to do some further cleanup with sandpaper. I usually use 220 grit full sheets and sand by moving the edge back and forth along the sandpaper on a flat level surface to keep the edge straight. I then follow up with something like 400 grit.
Capillary bonding with acrylic cement (I use Weld On 3) requires a straight clean smooth edge but takes very little adhesive. You will need to apply to the joint with a small tapered end squeeze bottle or a syringe or similar small orifice opening. Excess adhesive run over the acrylic will mar the surface as it actually melts it.

Acrylic sheet with a thickness of 3/16" or greater will accept threads with a tap very well, and if you're careful possibly 1/8" sheet as well.

Bending acrylic sheet can be accomplished with a heat gun, if you are careful not to hold it in one place too long as it will blister and bubble the acrylic.
For wider bends there are flexible insulated heat strips. You can look on YouTube and find tutorials on how to use them or Google.
post #7707 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by protzman View Post

Yeah in my experience this past week dremel only works well for sending. the saw attachment was impossible to control with any accuracy!

Prob using the wrong one then. They make a special version specifically for this. It's almost like using a tattoo gun.
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Windows 7 pro BenQ XL2420T Professional Gaming Monitor Rosewill Mechanical Keyboard RK-9000BR with Che... Ultra X4 Modular 850-Watt ATX Power Supply V2 
CaseMouseAudioAudio
NZXT Technologies Switch 810 Gunmetal Full Towe... Logitech Wireless Gaming Mouse G700 Creative Sound Blaster Recon3D THX PCIE Fatal1t... Genius SW-G2.1 1250 2.1 Speaker System 
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post #7708 of 13812


Ok, so my cathodes are where those purple lines are. Any suggestions on how to get more even lighting on my tubes?

The problem is that the fans below the top rad block most of the light and this gives me some nasty shadows.

Should I try to build some sort of cathode holder and suspend it from the bottom of those fans and than block the side that is facing the window?
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post #7709 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickles View Post


Ok, so my cathodes are where those purple lines are. Any suggestions on how to get more even lighting on my tubes?
The problem is that the fans below the top rad block most of the light and this gives me some nasty shadows.
Should I try to build some sort of cathode holder and suspend it from the bottom of those fans and than block the side that is facing the window?

Yeah thats kind of what I was going to suggest , if you use a long piece of acrylic just wide enough to hide the side of the fans that we see + the space needed to stick the cathode on it you would get more light and we wouldnt see the cathode from the window .. Also it would hide the exposed fans which I dont like ( I want to mod mine to hide those as well )

    
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post #7710 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMattes View Post

+REP!
Thanks help a lot man! I think I will be giving this a try once I might a final decision on a case....
Where are those PHANTOM leaks?? Someone needs to step up here ph34r-smiley.gif

I was going to buy the Switch if I could source one of the new revisions, but I read in an earlier post a few days ago that NZXT have a new case to be unveiled later this month so I will wait and see what that is about. I have the parts for a 3770K build ready to go (apart from a case), have had the parts for a few weeks now, but I guess I can make do with my other system in the meantime which has 3930K wink.gif.
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