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Official NZXT Switch 810 thread - Page 777

Poll Results: Which Color Version are you buying

Poll expired: Feb 28, 2012  
  • 58% (44)
    White/Black
  • 41% (31)
    Black/black
75 Total Votes  
post #7761 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wenis View Post

http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab149/beearrjay/Snapbucket/8D85E736.jpg
This is a pic of the bottom of my case. On the far right you can barely see my 280 mounted vertically.
http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab149/beearrjay/Snapbucket/F0CACC5A.jpg
This is a pic taken with my psu installed. Also the ek bridge that I installed is a parallel bridge.
Currently, my pumps are mounted between the psu and front rad, so I don't think I could possibly fit another rad there if I wanted.

Looks like you gutted both HDD cages. Did you have to cut up into the optical drive cage to get to the rad fittings?

You have all the PSU you need for the tri-sli setup and the fans / pumps overhead, cooling and ambient temp limitations are going to be the controlling factors as far as how much you can OC it.

There's been some previous discussion on the "At what point do you need to go to external cooling" or a different case like a mountain mods or caselabs etc., subject.

You're on that edge for sure at this point.

There's only so many cubic inches in the 810, and a 420 and a 280 max it out.

Trying to add anything more is only going to compromise the airflow to the main rads and not so likely to result in a positive outcome.

Looks like you have it about as good as it's going to get.

Darlene
post #7762 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Looks like you gutted both HDD cages. Did you have to cut up into the optical drive cage to get to the rad fittings?
You have all the PSU you need for the tri-sli setup and the fans / pumps overhead, cooling and ambient temp limitations are going to be the controlling factors as far as how much you can OC it.
There's been some previous discussion on the "At what point do you need to go to external cooling" or a different case like a mountain mods or caselabs etc., subject.
You're on that edge for sure at this point.
There's only so many cubic inches in the 810, and a 420 and a 280 max it out.
Trying to add anything more is only going to compromise the airflow to the main rads and not so likely to result in a positive outcome.
Looks like you have it about as good as it's going to get.
Darlene

I wish I was at home to be able to give you more pics. But to answer your question about the optical bays, the answer is yes. I actually removed it all together and fabricated a new one to facilitate my 280. I just simply could not visualize another way to do it.

Basically at this point, all I can do is finish my final assembly, and see what temps look like.

One more question though. Do you think it even pays for me to water cool my mobo? I don't know if it'd help me at this point to remove that from my water loop.

Thanks Wenis
 
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post #7763 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHerman330 View Post

Any recommendations on dual bay res/ dual pump combos?
Something like this?
I should be able to return the combo already purchased from performance pc. Would the previously listed single pump variant be sufficient for now until I upgraded to the dual pump later down the road?

That looks like it would be fine.

It doesn't have the flexibility that some do to run in dual loop mode, but it does do exactly what you want it for.

It looks like you may have to do a little fittings gymnastics or use some long extensions if using compression fittings.


I like (and use) this one from Koolance for the D5s:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12480/ex-res-254/Koolance_RP-452X2_Dual_525_Reservoir_Rev_20_Serial_or_Parallel_for_1_or_2_Pumps_RP-450_Laing_D5_MCP655-B_MCP655.html?tl=g30c107s152

and this one for the 35Xs:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13380/ex-res-294/Koolance_RP-401X2_Single_525_Reservoir_for_1-2_PMP-400_Pumps_Rev_11.html?tl=g30c107s152

The XSPC is a bit less expensive, but they have a solid reputaion for quality at a decent price, so I'd give it thumb.gifthumb.gif


Darlene
post #7764 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wenis View Post

I wish I was at home to be able to give you more pics. But to answer your question about the optical bays, the answer is yes. I actually removed it all together and fabricated a new one to facilitate my 280. I just simply could not visualize another way to do it.
Basically at this point, all I can do is finish my final assembly, and see what temps look like.
One more question though. Do you think it even pays for me to water cool my mobo? I don't know if it'd help me at this point to remove that from my water loop.
Thanks Wenis


I have the Asus RIVE, and I did the mobo and the ram.

Neither produces that much heat compared to a cpu or gpu, so it's more of an aesthetics decision.

It won't take away any meaningful cooling capacity from the cpu/gpus that really need it, so it's really not a benefit, or a detriment.

With just the mobo, it didn't add a big bunch of additional restrictive fittings or anything to be of concern.

Since it's done, I can't see justifying the effort to undo it, for little if any, measurable gains.


Darlene
post #7765 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

I have the Asus RIVE, and I did the mobo and the ram.
Neither produces that much heat compared to a cpu or gpu, so it's more of an aesthetics decision.
It won't take away any meaningful cooling capacity from the cpu/gpus that really need it, so it's really not a benefit, or a detriment.
With just the mobo, it didn't add a big bunch of additional restrictive fittings or anything to be of concern.
Since it's done, I can't see justifying the effort to undo it, for little if any, measurable gains.
Darlene

Ok I'll plan on leaving it in then! Thanks thumb.gif
 
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post #7766 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHerman330 View Post

Darlene, just a thought as I do not claim to be an expert in thermodynamics and please correct me if I am wrong.

A 60mm rad design utilizes more space with a lower fin density and requires a lower fan speed and volume of air to be pushed through to achieve cooling, correct?

Fin density (fpi) is part of the design criteria for each rad, regardless of thickness. There are fairly hi fpi 60mm rads, and also low fpi 35mm rads.

For any given thickness of rad, the fpi has the most bearing on what fan speeds are going to be efficient for that rad. . . . Which translates to how silent / loud that rad is going to be in a system.

Most manufacturers have rads to appeal to the silent market place (slow 500 to 800 rpm fans) as well as rads for maximum possible cooling in a given size standard.

1) Thin rads with low fpi need the least fan power to push air thru, so they are the quietest, but have the least cooling potential.
2) Thin rads with hi fpi need more fan power to get a commensurate amount of air to the fin count thru, but have greater cooling potential to go with it.
3) Thick rads with lower fpi need similar amounts of fan power to their thinner but higher fpi counterparts, with relatively equal cooling potential.
4) Thick rads with hi fpi need the most fan power to get commensurate airflow to fin count thru them, but have the greatest cooling potential for their given size standard.


Then taking into consideration a 35mm rad has basically half the cooling surface, but has double the fin density wouldn't that provide a similar level of cooling?

What you're trying to say, but not expressing well, is relatively true in cases #2 and #3, but is not so in #1 and #4. . . . It isn't always, nor even so generally true as to be able to make it as a generalized statement.

Cooling surface actually encompasses all the surface area of all the fins exposed to the airflow, so that a thin rad with 20fpi would have about the same actual cooling surface as a thick one of 10 fpi. They would have about the same cooling potential (with properly optimized fans) precisely because they have the same cooling surface.


That is also taking into consideration that the higher fin density requires a much higher rpm fan that can push the air through the higher fin density?

If I completely mistaken, as I said, please correct me.
If that is the case then I fail to understand why more companies are releasing thinner rads if the performance is not comparable to the thicker rad design.

Rad technology and manufacturing technology have advanced over the last decade. Demand has increased as well. A thinner rad can fit in more places than a thicker one, so if you can get sufficient enough cooling from a thinner rad, you can sell a lot of them. If you can get a similar level of cooling from a thin rad as from some thicker rads, then you create additional sales opportunities.

Keep in mind as well, that each successive generation of cpu has done more while producing less heat than it's previous generation, so more cases and more new builds can now benefit from suiatbly sized water cooling systems that may not have come near being adaquate a couple generations back.

Anyone who recalls the day of overclocked q6600's and Xfire HD2900's and having to wear a heat shield on their leg next to the pc must be smiling.


I'm not a TD guru either, but it's not a prerequisite here .

I kinda wated to revisit this post a bit because while sometimes some of the statements are true, collectively, they are overly generalized and can be misleading or incorrect.


Essentially, choosing a rad is like spec'ing components.

You have to determine your cooling needs, noise level tolerance, available space and so on.

Put all the variables into the matrix, and see what rad / fan combo results.


Darlene
Edited by IT Diva - 9/16/12 at 5:00pm
post #7767 of 13812
Hey guys, been busy. Everyone's builds look great! Here are some updates to switch prime. Will update build log when done.







Wet sanding











Something cool with my rads. Inspired by mybadomen... biggrin.gif





Here is an extra panel that I had for practice. Finishing up my actual side panels.....

post #7768 of 13812
DSC_7042s.JPG
Got some caster wheels from Home Depot the other day a cut the shafts down to 1cm in length to fit the holes in the bottom of the Switch. I think they were a 5/16" shaft. Makes moving the case a lot easier.


DSC_7040s.JPG
Getting ready to make some cuts in my front panel. Thinking about picking up one of those protractors that have the pivoting ruler attached to them to make the 2 horizontal bars the same angle as the bottom.

Still waiting on my replacement Sentry Mesh for my buzzing Sentry Mix after 9 weeks and 5+ phone calls.
Edited by 02ssei - 9/16/12 at 7:45pm
Switch 810
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Switch 810
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post #7769 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

I'm not a TD guru either, but it's not a prerequisite here .
I kinda wated to revisit this post a bit because while sometimes some of the statements are true, collectively, they are overly generalized and can be misleading or incorrect.
Essentially, choosing a rad is like spec'ing components.
You have to determine your cooling needs, noise level tolerance, available space and so on.
Put all the variables into the matrix, and see what rad / fan combo results.
Darlene

Awesome post. I didnt want to mislead or post incorrect information. Glad I wasnt completely off base. Thanks again for passing along the knowledge
post #7770 of 13812
02ssei, I didn't want to "quote" your post and take up a bunch of thread space. Anyway, your lighting looks terrific. Thanks for the tip on the wheels.

Question to everyone though. I have a faceplace from my double din reservoir (takes up 2 5 1/4 drive bays) that I would like to paint, but I would really like to get exactly the correct shade of white. Does anyone know what it is? Just plain white? For the case I mean?
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