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Official NZXT Switch 810 thread - Page 839

Poll Results: Which Color Version are you buying

Poll expired: Feb 28, 2012  
  • 58% (44)
    White/Black
  • 41% (31)
    Black/black
75 Total Votes  
post #8381 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atham View Post

I am pushing like a mad man. Still nothing.
Would do you mean to check the motherboard?

If it happened to me, I would first trace my wire and make sure that everything is plugged in tight and the right way. And if everything else is lighting up it should not be an issue. Did you take apart the panel or something as it could have become unplugged from the back of the panel too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roikyou View Post

Yes, I had the power connection on one of my motherboard connections, turned out I had it on the wrong one, make sure there are not multiple (I have the msi mpower motherboard).
What motherboard is this?
(reviewing my motherboard, JFP1 has a power led connection and JFP2 has a power led connection. I used JFP2 first, did not work, switched to JFP1 pin 2 + and ping 4-, worked like a charm)

Atham is talking about the 2 leds in the back of the case and not the power and HDD connectors.
post #8382 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atham View Post

I am pushing like a mad man. Still nothing.
Would do you mean to check the motherboard?

So, does the button actually let out a *click* sound and stay in or does it not go in at all? The mSATA powers the rear LEDs but I guess you already know that. Try a different paripheral perhaps?!
Blue Phoenix
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Blue Phoenix
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post #8383 of 13812
The LED on back of case only works when the computer is ON. My harddrive LED did not work untill I switched cables around.
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Dwood Switch 810 Pedstal 2x Alphacool UT60 480 ... 2x Alphacool 480 UT60 with 12x AP-45 Scythe Gen... 2x HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ GTX 690 "Hole Edition" Ni... XSPC Copper Raystorm, XSPC Bay Res 
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post #8384 of 13812
My HDD LED isn't working as well. I have the mSATA connection connected with a SATA connector from the PSU. It is one of those multiple ones, one is powering my optical bay and the other is for the LED.
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[MICROSOFT] Windows 7 Ultimate 64 Bit [ASUS] VH242 24" 1920 x 1080 [BENQ] A800  [CORSAIR] AX750 
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[Intel] 520 120GB [WD] Green 1TB SATA II [SAMSUNG] SH-222BB [NOCTUA] NH-U12P-SE2 
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post #8385 of 13812
A 9 pound box of goodies should be delivered to my house tomorrow. Pretty excited even though I am scheduled to work 40+ hours in the next 4 days.
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post #8386 of 13812
My mobo is a G1 Sniper 3. I plugged the p+ and p- into the front panel connector thing( where the power wire goes) so I'll try rotating them as has been stated. Will report back. Thanks for the help. Reasons why i love this thread and OCN.
post #8387 of 13812
quick update: If figured it out. I had the pins right next to each other, ( so technically in the wrong spot for the +. now I see my power led. I take it my hdd led will work when there is activity?? I havent installed windows yet.
post #8388 of 13812
Hello everyone. I recently decided to build my first watercooled PC, and have run into a problem. I got a matte black Switch 810, and a HWLabs SR1 420 radiator (Which I was told by numerous people would fit.) I had to take the top portion of the case off to get the radiator with push fans (Thermalright X-Silent-140) on it in, and now after the top is back on, one of my compression fittings on the radiator is very, very close to the IO shield housing. There is no way I'll be able to get the tube on there and screw down the compression ring. If i mounted the tubes outside the case, it wouldn't fit in. If I rotate the radiator 180 degrees, the compression fittings would be a centimeter or so above the top of the 5.25 inch bay. What did I do wrong, and how can I fix it? If anyone is near Newburgh, NY and wants to lend a hand definitely PM me. Thank you.
Edited by wildwilly - 10/8/12 at 9:49pm
post #8389 of 13812
Thread Starter 
It should. That's the problem with those tiny mobo header pins. You always end up placing them wrong, especially when there isn't enough light or you're just trying to plug something in quick.

As a sign of relief to another problem, we'll be killing Molex on all future products (save for PSUs). Because Molex must die. Now, if only there were a way to kill thos pesky mobo headers.... thinking.gif
post #8390 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by wildwilly View Post

Hello everyone. I recently decided to build my first watercooled PC, and have run into a problem. I got a matte black Switch 810, and a HWLabs SR1 420 radiator (Which I was told by numerous people would fit.) I had to take the top portion of the case off to get the radiator with push fans (Thermalright X-Silent-140) on it in, and now after the top is back on, one of my compression fittings on the radiator is very, very close to the IO shield housing. There is no way I'll be able to get the tube on there and screw down the compression ring. If I rotate the radiator 180 degrees, the compression fittings would be a centimeter or so above the top of the 5.25 inch bay. What did I do wrong, and how can I fix it? If anyone is near Newburgh, NY and wants to lend a hand definitely PM me. Thank you.

I would have the fittings towards the front and dremel out part of the 5.25 bay plate.
Sideous
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Sideous
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OCN ultimate rig
(11 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Ivy Bridge 3770k Asus Sabertooth z77 EVGA GTX 670 FTW Patriot Viper Xtreme 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Plextor M3 ASUS DRW Custom water cooling Windows 64 bit 
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HP 2310m 1080p Corsair K90 Corsair AX850 NZXT Switch 810 Matte Black 
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4670k Maximus VI Gene gtx 780 gtx 780 
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EK-FC GeForce GTX Titan SE GPU Water Block - Ni... EK-FC Titan SE Backplate - Black X2 EK supremacy clean csq nickel Corsair K70 mx brown 
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