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Official NZXT Switch 810 thread - Page 977

Poll Results: Which Color Version are you buying

Poll expired: Feb 28, 2012  
  • 58% (44)
    White/Black
  • 41% (31)
    Black/black
75 Total Votes  
post #9761 of 13812
Oh, and just an FYI, even though the Cougars are just a hair thinner than the AP-14's (which is odd, because both are supposed to be 25mm thick), I still had to "trim them" to get one of them to fit in the Switch 810 case with an XSPC RX360 and a Gigabyte GA-Z77Z-UP7 motherboard.

Not the end of the world, but just something to keep in mind. It was missing by like 1mm.




That is my only real "complaint" with the Switch 810 (and it is a very minor one) ... I just wish they had made the case 5mm taller on the inside. If NZXT did that (or offered a different top that had the metal bent UP instead of down for rigidity), then this case would be perfect.
post #9762 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by 47 Knucklehead View Post

Oh, and just an FYI, even though the Cougars are just a hair thinner than the AP-14's (which is odd, because both are supposed to be 25mm thick), I still had to "trim them" to get one of them to fit in the Switch 810 case with an XSPC RX360 and a Gigabyte GA-Z77Z-UP7 motherboard.
Not the end of the world, but just something to keep in mind. It was missing by like 1mm. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

That is my only real "complaint" with the Switch 810 (and it is a very minor one) ... I just wish they had made the case 5mm taller on the inside. If NZXT did that (or offered a different top that had the metal bent UP instead of down for rigidity), then this case would be perfect.

They did take care of that in the 820, but I like your idea of NZXT changing the top.

Here is my update of the day. Worked a bit on the front panel (need to clean up), added the vandal proof power switch.



Presently working on making my own cables and sleeving them. Starting with PCIe and so far coming along great. Also need to move the top rad a bit to make sure the top panel cover sits in fine.

Its not easy to sleeve with him around
post #9763 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahweng38 View Post

Finally have done all the leak test!!! Hope ur guys enjoy the PIC
-snip-



What LED strips are you using? What tubing/coolant is that?
Edited by Helltech - 12/8/12 at 5:19pm
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Switch
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post #9764 of 13812
Sorry I had double post
Edited by Amihim - 12/8/12 at 4:08pm
post #9765 of 13812
So since I am using the Same fan with h100i will I have to do the same thing. Will it make any difference in cooling performance if I use 3 non pwm 140mm cougar fans on the top of my switch 810 as pull and use 2 120mm cougar on bottom of h100i flowing the air in upward direction. And use my other 2 120mm pwm cougar for hdd cage bracket.
post #9766 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by anteante View Post

Got myself a 810 matte black case today and a EK 360 XT radiator for a good price, used items but in good condition. See if i do a worklog here.
WC parts will be
EK 360 XT in the roof with PP and looking at the Corsair SP 12 series, a bit expensive but dont know any other good/quiet fans except Scythe Typhoon
EK 240 XTX in the front with PP to
Alphacool VP655 pump
Phobya 150 or 250 reservoair , dont know yet which fit best.
EK-Supremacy - Acetal
EK-FC680 GTX+ - Acetal
Masterkleer tubing " Clear "
Some Red cooling liqiud
And black fittings that i already got from my old build aquatuning stylie
Looking forward to mount my new Asus Maximus Formula V
About LED color then, what will be best red or white? The theme is red/black for my build so maybe white will fit best?
Big fan of white lighting here, imho if you've colored coolant and you hit it with the same led color as the coolant, it wont really show it off smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Amihim View Post

So since I am using the Same fan with h100i will I have to do the same thing. Will it make any difference in cooling performance if I use 3 non pwm 140mm cougar fans on the top of my switch 810 as pull and use 2 120mm cougar on bottom of h100i flowing the air in upward direction. And use my other 2 120mm pwm cougar for hdd cage bracket.
Im just afraid that with 140mm on pull and 120mm push; and it's from different brand (which the airflow would be somehow different) it would create such air vortex in the rad which won't optimize the airflow
and IMHO push/pull wouldn't make much different, watch THIS he's my fav tech guru
Edited by jokrik - 12/8/12 at 4:30pm
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Project Blank
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Phenomenon
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G.Skill Ripzjaw (4x4GB) OCZ Vertex 4 (256GB) WD Caviar Black (1TB) Custom Water Loop 
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Windows 8 QNIX QX2710 Too many... Seasonic Platinum 860w 
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Switch 810 + Pedestal Logitech G602 Artisan Mousepad Bose Companion 5 
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post #9767 of 13812
Jokrik i try to watch his videos regularly but in this video he has advised not to do push pull since it will not make any difference i think that's what he meant if I understand that right.
Ps: can any one please advise on blue or white led lights.
Edited by Amihim - 12/8/12 at 5:44pm
post #9768 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by jokrik View Post

... IMHO push/pull wouldn't make much different, watch THIS he's my fav tech guru

Well, real testing with actual measurements would strongly disagree with that guy in the video.

Push/Pull DOES make a real difference.

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/03/27/xspc-rx360-radiator/

Martins is pretty much THE definitive testing site when it comes to testing of liquid cooling gear.



Basically, at 1450RPM, going "push/pull" will dissipate upwards of 23% more heat than just "push". That's pretty significant.


Also, I can confirm from my own testing, that going to "push/pull" from just "push" or "pull, will yield you cooler overall temperatures with not that much more noise, since dBA does not add per fan, but rather goes up fractionally.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 47 Knucklehead View Post

You know you got computers on the brain when you are laying in bed at 2 in the morning and suddenly think to yourself ... OMG, how loud will this thing be? Should I have ordered 18 AP-13 or AP-12 fans instead?

Well, after running some numbers, it really doesn't matter much. Pretty much the most noise will be generated from the 2 MCP655 pumps, which puts out about 33dBA each.

9 800RPM fans AP-12 @ 9dBA = 18.54dBA (36.08dBA w/2 MCP655 pumps) = 28.25 CFM per = ~120 Watts @ 10C
18 800RPM fans AP-12 @ 9dBA = 21.52dBA (36.15dBA w/2 MCP655 pumps) = 28.25 CFM per = ~140 Watts @ 10C

9 1150RPM fans AP-13 @ 16dBA = 25.54dBA (36.37dBA w/2 MCP655 pumps) = 37 CFM per = ~160 Watts @ 10C
18 1150RPM fans AP-13 @ 16dBA = 28.52dBA (36.72dBA w/2 MCP655 pumps) = 37 CFM per = ~190 Watts @ 10C

9 1450RPM fans AP-14 @ 21dBA = 30.54dBA (37.08dBA w/2 MCP655 pumps) = 50 CFM per = ~215 Watts @ 10C
18 1450RPM fans AP-14 @ 21dBA = 33.52dBA (37.94dBA w/2 MCP655 pumps) = 50 CFM per = ~260 Watts @ 10C

For those that don't already have this site, you might want to book mark it. It is simply wonderful for calculating noise.

Combining decibels - up to 10 levels
Combining decibels − up to 30 levels

(Basically, adding 9 more fans and going from 9 to 18 only causes the overall noise figure to go up by 3dBA.)

post #9769 of 13812
Quote:
Originally Posted by LongShot79 View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


up and running!!
hoping to resolve some hardware issues, but working nonetheless!

Needs a red lightsaber! biggrin.gif
 
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Ants In My HTPC
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Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCooling
Samsung 850 SSD (250GB) WD 3TB EK Supreme LTX CPU block (plexi) EK XT 360 radiator 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK DCP 4.0 pump Phobya 250mm tube reservoir EK Compression Fittings Masterkleer 3/8" ID 1/2" OD tubing CLEAR 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
Mayhems Pastel White Windows 10 64bit iiyama 24" (1920x1080) Dell 19" (1440x900) 
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post #9770 of 13812
Well unfortunately my New Conglamorate Build is getting pushed back a few months, most likely until the summer. so ill be going with my original plan ( a black and green with some blue), I should have some pics up in a day or two.
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