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Corsair H100 pump noise - Page 3

post #21 of 63
I happen to have a second H100 since I ran to Fry's and got a second one (ordered the first online) after hearing the noise of the first one a few days ago (I was going to simply take one of them back but have since decided to keep both).

I tried this hack (hooking to fan controller header) on the second one as well (hooked it up to a fan header on my Sunbeam Rheobus fan controller) and am happy to report that it too is completely silent now. For whatever reason, both of the H100's I have are silent at full RPM when hooked to the powered fan control header and are noisy as hell once I switch either of them back to the standard 4 pin molex of the PSU.

The diode hack is awesome, BTW. Sleeving looks nice too.

When hooked to the fan controller my pump shows 3300 RPMS in speed fan. It's dead silent there but I still back the RPMs off to around 2400. I did a few hours Prime 95 yesterday (4.5ghz on a 2700K) and at full RPM's (3300), temps never broke 60C. As soon as I backed the RPM's off to 2400 or so, the temps immediately went up to 62C; so, not much of a performance hit if only a degree or two difference at load.

Anyway, I'm going to keep the H100's as long as they keep working. My rig is more quiet now than it's ever been and the temps are rather amazing to say the least. Steadily idling at 8 degrees over ambient is pretty good with a 4.5/4.8ghz daily overclock and load temps never break mid 60's.

I'm going to lap the one that's not in my rig at the moment and also go pick up some screws for a high pressure mod on the waterblock/pump. Corsair's default mounting method, though easy and convenient, leaves a bit to be desired in mount pressure as the thumbscrews bottom out real fast on the provided backplate offset studs that you screw down on. A pressure mod should be simple as hell with this cooler as all you'll need are some screws and bolts since the backplate (need to drill it out) and mounting brackets are already configured for a typical bolt through. I'll post some pressure vs non-pressure numbers once I do it.

Oh yeah. Can't believe Corsair hasn't fixed that pump problem. What a deal killer for folks who aren't inclined to mod it a bit.

Go figure.
    
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post #22 of 63
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik in sac View Post

I wanted to add that I made a inline 4 pin molex connector with a 1N4002 diode, the pump is now dead silent! biggrin.gif The RPMs before were at 2200 and after 1960. Dont confuse this grinding rattle noise with air in the pump, that is a totally different sound. Props to that guy on the corsair forums for finding this
Easy mod to do
IMG_6808.JPG
IMG_6810.JPG

Why did you use a 1N4002 instead of a 1N4001 like was recommended on the Corsair support forums? I am about to make one and was wondering which one I should use.
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post #23 of 63
because that is what I had already wink.gif 1N4001 to 1N4007 will work the same for this, as the forward voltage drop is the same. They just get larger to handle more current mostly, but the 4001 will handle plenty for this.
It is a nicer way to drop a small amount of voltage than to use a fancier rectifier or a high wattage, low impedance resistor
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post #24 of 63
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik in sac View Post

because that is what I had already wink.gif 1N4001 to 1N4007 will work the same for this, as the forward voltage drop is the same. They just get larger to handle more current mostly, but the 4001 will handle plenty for this.
It is a nicer way to drop a small amount of voltage than to use a fancier rectifier or a high wattage, low impedance resistor

Thanks for the answer. I tried a 1N4001/2/4 and none of them helped my problem. I took the pump off to see if it made the noise when not secured to the pc and it doesn't. The noise is made by something rattling while it is connected and I just can't figure out what. I tried re-seating it and playing with the back-plate, but nothing I did will make the sound go away. It is so strange as the pump is virtually silent when not attached to the pc...

Sooooo annoying.
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post #25 of 63
I hear ya man, that sucks. Anyway to RMA it? If not, how handy are you at disassembling one? You might find a loose screw or something with the case or impeller you can fix. I do recall one person saying that the back plate is a tad loose and maybe a tighter mounting method would help you too.

Why cant parts just work out of the box any more? frown.gif
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post #26 of 63
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik in sac View Post

I hear ya man, that sucks. Anyway to RMA it? If not, how handy are you at disassembling one? You might find a loose screw or something with the case or impeller you can fix. I do recall one person saying that the back plate is a tad loose and maybe a tighter mounting method would help you too.

Why cant parts just work out of the box any more? frown.gif

Because, made in China.
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post #27 of 63
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackbalt89 View Post

Because, made in China.

rolleyes.gif Compelling argument.
    
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post #28 of 63
Quote:
Originally Posted by Exostenza View Post

Why did you use a 1N4002 instead of a 1N4001 like was recommended on the Corsair support forums? I am about to make one and was wondering which one I should use.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik in sac View Post

I wanted to add that I made a inline 4 pin molex connector with a 1N4002 diode, the pump is now dead silent! biggrin.gif The RPMs before were at 2200 and after 1960. Dont confuse this grinding rattle noise with air in the pump, that is a totally different sound. Props to that guy on the corsair forums for finding this
Easy mod to do
IMG_6808.JPG
IMG_6810.JPG

Just did this exact same mod. Took me 10 minutes and now mine is now almost silent! thumb.gif
post #29 of 63
Hi guys,
I've been told by s1rrah that there's a talk about it here so I'll jump in.

Let's set some things straight first.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik in sac View Post

1N4001 to 1N4007 will work the same for this, as the forward voltage drop is the same. They just get larger to handle more current mostly, but the 4001 will handle plenty for this.
The current rating is the same on all of these. they only differ by max reverse voltage they can handle, and thus the package size. I used 1N4001 because we're not dealing with any reverse voltage and small package makes it look nicer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik in sac View Post

It is a nicer way to drop a small amount of voltage than to use a fancier rectifier or a high wattage, low impedance resistor
Low impedance resistor? I believe that sentence doesn't make sense. You must have confused it with a low impedance capacitor (low equivalent series resistance, or ESR, to be precise). Anyway, using a resistor isn't a good idea, because it will generate heat. You need to lower the voltage by about 1 Volt to silence the pump, and 1V on a unit with some strong fans could result in a considerable heat dissipation.
I also considered using a Zener diode, but dismissed that idea quickly for many reasons. First off - complexity, second off, it's a non-universal solution.

As for why the pump makes noise when mounted but does not when outside of the PC - yes, that makes sense, for the same reason why the pump will make noise when the PC is in upright position but will stop when you tilt the PC or lay it on its side, so the pump's top is facing up.
I have my theory on that, based on the internal construction of the pump I've seen on macro shots, but I haven't had a chance to take one apart myself unfortunately.

This pretty much sums it up spot on:
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackbalt89 View Post

Because, made in China.
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post #30 of 63
Quote:
Originally Posted by wlw wl View Post

Hi guys,
I've been told by s1rrah that there's a talk about it here so I'll jump in.

BTW wlw ... I've tried the voltage dropper you sent me on my second, shelved H100 and it works perfectly. Still deciding what to do with the extra unit ... thinking more and more about using it on a Q6600 build as I've got all the parts for that laying around my house (and I think the H100 will best the old TRUE cooler I have quite easily).
    
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