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[Build Log] CaseLabs STH10 BOINC Cruncher 2012

112K views 287 replies 59 participants last post by  Onslash 
#1 ·
I pre-ordered a CaseLabs STH10 case and started the planning for this build while I wait on its delivery.

This computer will be a dedicated Boinc cruncher with 4 GPUs. Everything will be watercooled.

Main Components:

Case: CaseLabs STH10

Case Options:
Color: Black
ATX Layout: Standard (N/C), Reverse (N/C)
Form Factor: XL-ATX (N/C), HPTX (N/C)
MB Door: Ventilated (N/C), Solid (N/C), XXL Window (20.00)
Upper Chamber Covers: Ventilated (N/C), Solid (N/C)
Lower Chamber Covers: Ventilated (N/C), Solid (N/C)
Top Cover: Ventilated (N/C), Solid (N/C), Ext. Ventilated 120mm (60.00)
PCI Back Plate: Fan Holes (N/C), Hex Mesh (N/C)
Packaging: Flat-Pack/Unassembled (N/C), Assembled (N/C)

CPU: Intel i7-3930K (OC to 4.5 GHZ+ is the target)

MB: ASUS Rampage IV Extreme

RAM: Corsair Dominator GT DDR3-18662133 16GB (4x4GB)

Boot Disk: Intel 510 520 Series 120GB SSD

Data Disk: Segate 2TB SATA 6.0Gb/s x4

PSU: Corsair AX1200 x2 in top compartment

GPUs: EVGA Nvidia GTX570 SuperClock Cards with EVGA waterblock x4

Water Cooling Components:

CPU Block: XSPC Raystorm

Pump: Swiftech MCP35X2 Dual pump

Rad: Black Ice SR1 GTX 360 x2 in top compartment with push/pull fans

Rad: Black Ice SR1 GTX 560 x2 in bottom compartment with push/pull fans

Fans: Yate Loon 120mm Medium Speed x16 and Yate Loon 140mm Medium Speed x16

Fan Controller: Sunbeamtech Rheosmart 6 Fan Controller x2

Reservoir: EK MultiOption 400 Advanced Bitspower Z-Multi 250 Reservoir - Ice Red

Fittings: Bitspower compression and Koolance quick disconnects

Tubing: ClearFlex Masterkleer Dark Red 1/2" ID 3/4" OD

I've built several computers in the past, but all were air cooled. I did recently add a watercooling kit to my current main system. But that was just a learning exercise.

This build will be a full custom watercooled rig.

I have started a 3D mockup diagram using Sketchup. I will post that soon.

I welcome any feedback on the parts list and I will post pics along the way. But, this will be a slow build. I am also a photography hobbyist, so I hope the photos will be top quality.

Let the adventure begin..

Cheers,

[Edit 13-Feb-2012]: Changed the rads to the GTX series
[Edit 09-Mar-2012]: Changed the SSD to 520 series, the Res to Bitspower Z-Multi 250, and the tubing to Masterkleer Dark Red
[Edit 12-May-2012]: Change the RAM to Dominator GT 2133
[Edit 03-Nov-2012]: General cleanup of OP
 
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#4 ·
It will be nice to see how things go together with the new Case Labs STH10 as I fully plan on buying one in March! I'll be using Black Ice SR1 560 x2 in bottom compartment in a push only since I'm using these puppies below!
biggrin.gif


picture150y.jpg

picture1513.jpg
 
#9 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronsanut View Post

Nice. Who makes those fan shrouds on your AP-15's ? I just bought 4 for an SR-1 480 but did not even consider a fan shroud. heard the fins in the SR-1's are tapered so they naturally act as like a shroud, but I think I may get some anyway.
It's the bgears 120mm to 140mm adapter. A 560 doesn't normally accept 120mm fans. It's not that big a shroud maybe 10mm or so. Martin seemed to find on his most recent shroud test that shrouds are radiator dependent, i.e. sometimes they help and sometimes they hurt.
 
#10 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by stren View Post

FYI at 1850rpm you'd get better performance with a GTX over an SR1. Excited to see the build, can't wait to see the case come in.
The 120mm Yate Loon Mediums (D12SM-12) are 1650 RPM and the 140mm D14SM-12 are 1400 RPM. Would the GTX rads still be better than the SR1 rads? Why? Please explain to a newbee.

I've been learning more about how to use Sketchup. I did a mockup of the waterloop layout for my STH10 that I am waiting on. I found models of the BitsPower fittings on the net. These were very helpful.
This first pic shows the basic layout:
700
I do intend to use quick disconnect fittings where the tubes leave the motherboard tray and connect to the chassis. Just haven't drawn those yet.

This one shows the view in between the top rads:
700
The layout in the bottom is similar.

Any feedback on this proposed waterloop layout is welcomed.

Cheers,
 
#11 ·
I like the large reservoir and clean hoses in the mail chamber.

I thought it was better to have the CPU before the GPUs, but that would mess up the clean look.

Do you plan on cooling the motherboard? That would add some more tubing.

Which way do you plan on running the fans? All pulling fresh air in? Or in one side and out the other?
 
#12 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pongo View Post

The 120mm Yate Loon Mediums (D12SM-12) are 1650 RPM and the 140mm D14SM-12 are 1400 RPM. Would the GTX rads still be better than the SR1 rads? Why? Please explain to a newbee.
I've been learning more about how to use Sketchup. I did a mockup of the waterloop layout for my STH10 that I am waiting on. I found models of the BitsPower fittings on the net. These were very helpful.
This first pic shows the basic layout:
I do intend to use quick disconnect fittings where the tubes leave the motherboard tray and connect to the chassis. Just haven't drawn those yet.
This one shows the view in between the top rads:
The layout in the bottom is similar.
Any feedback on this proposed waterloop layout is welcomed.
Cheers,
I can't find a direct comparison right now, if I seem to remember rightly the cross over point is about 1200rpm as to where you should choose the gtx over the sr1. I could be wrong though. I assumed 1850rpm because you had AP15s in the photo.

Looking at two of skinnee's tests which are not apples to apples

The SR1 360 (1.5gpm at 1800rpm (yates)) = 0.0183 deg C/W
The GTX 360 (1.6gpm at 1700rpm (gentle typhoons) = 0.0145 deg C/W

In other words the gtx with 1700rpm GTs raises the liquid temperature 2 degrees less for a 500W load than an SR1 with 1800rpm yates.

If we assume 1200W of load and the equivalent radiator space of 5.6x360 rads (2x360s and 2x560s), then the temp difference will be very roughly 0.8 degrees better if you go with the gtx series.

Not enough to worry about, but if you haven't bought radiators yet it might be worth buying the gtx.
 
#13 ·
The photo of the AP15s was from Systemlord showing what he is using. I intend on using the Yate Loons.

I will continue investigating the different rads up until Case Labs ships my STH10 case. Then I will order the watercooling stuff to arrive just after I get the case. I keep checking my order status at Case Labs hoping it will be shipped soon. I should have a little time after the case arrives since "some assembly is required" and I intend on measuring all the parts so I can draw them in Sketchup.

I know its seems like a lot of people are using the Gentle Typhoon AP15s, but I just cannot see the value in a $15-$18 fan vs the Yate Loons at $5, when the $5 Yate Loon seems to also get good reviews. I have first hand experience that you cannot just go by the rated specs or the cost. I have a 90 CFM 18dBA Silenx Pro Extrema 120 x 38mm fan that cost me $20. I think I will make shroud out of it. I now know the reviews of the AP15's and the Yate Loons are good and that the Silenx Pro iExtrema not so much. (I'm being very kind there..) So, I will use the Yate Loons until I see that they dont perform in my setup.

Thanks for the info on the radiators.

[Edit]: Fixed a typo
 
#14 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by asg View Post

I like the large reservoir and clean hoses in the mail chamber.
I thought it was better to have the CPU before the GPUs, but that would mess up the clean look.
Do you plan on cooling the motherboard? That would add some more tubing.
Which way do you plan on running the fans? All pulling fresh air in? Or in one side and out the other?
I intend to pull in freash air and pass it straight through both rads within a section. So, in one side and out the other. I also intend to install 3 120mm fans as intake in the front motherboard section with one 120m exhaust fan on the back and slotted PCI covers on the back. So, the airflow within the motherboard section is front to back.

I am considering adding a motherboard block in Phase 2. I want to test the motherboard before modding it.
 
#15 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by stren View Post

I can't find a direct comparison right now, if I seem to remember rightly the cross over point is about 1200rpm as to where you should choose the gtx over the sr1. I could be wrong though. I assumed 1850rpm because you had AP15s in the photo.
Looking at two of skinnee's tests which are not apples to apples
The SR1 360 (1.5gpm at 1800rpm (yates)) = 0.0183 deg C/W
The GTX 360 (1.6gpm at 1700rpm (gentle typhoons) = 0.0145 deg C/W
In other words the gtx with 1700rpm GTs raises the liquid temperature 2 degrees less for a 500W load than an SR1 with 1800rpm yates.
If we assume 1200W of load and the equivalent radiator space of 5.6x360 rads (2x360s and 2x560s), then the temp difference will be very roughly 0.8 degrees better if you go with the gtx series.
Not enough to worry about, but if you haven't bought radiators yet it might be worth buying the gtx.
Now that I read your reply a few more times. I think I understand what you are saying.

So, if I run my fans faster than some value, say 1200 rpm, then I would be better off using the GTX rads instead of the SR1 rads. Is that correct?

I assume this is because the GTX has 20 fins per inch (FPI) and the SR1 has only 9 FPI. And, a 20 FPI rad dissapates more heat when it has more airflow than a rad with only 9 FPI.

I think I'm catching on...
 
#16 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pongo View Post

The photo of the AP15s was from Systemlord showing what he is using. I intend on using the Yate Loons.
I will continue investigating the different rads up until Case Labs ships my STH10 case. Then I will order the watercooling stuff to arrive just after I get the case. I keep checking my order status at Case Labs hoping it will be shipped soon. I should have a little time after the case arrives since "some assembly is required" and I intend on measuring all the parts so I can draw them in Sketchup.
I know its seems like a lot of people are using the Gentle Typhoon AP15s, but I just cannot see the value in a $15-$18 fan vs the Yate Loons at $5, when the $5 Yate Loon seems to also get good reviews. I have first hand experience that you cannot just go by the rated specs or the cost. I have a 90 CFM 18dBA Silenx Pro Extrema 120 x 38mm fan that cost me $20. I think I will make shroud out of it. I now know the reviews of the AP15's and the Yate Loons are good and that the Silenx Pro Extrema not some much. (I'm being very kind there..) So, I will use the Yate Loons until I see that they dont perform in my setup.
Thanks for the info on the radiators.
the reason that AP-15s are so expensive is because of the astounding CFM/dBa ratio, their "sound quality" and because they have prity good static presure... these three things make them amazing radiator fans wile being almost silent
smile.gif
... the yates are also very good fans, but their CFM/dBa ratio is a bit high, and their static presure is a little lower then the AP-15s... if noise isnt an issue (it is at high RPM for me) then yates will get you the same results for 1/3 the price... if sound is an issue, then AP-15s are probably the way to get... there are some other realy nice ones out there, but AP-15s are the most well known
smile.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pongo View Post

Now that I read your reply a few more times. I think I understand what you are saying.
So, if I run my fans faster than some value, say 1200 rpm, then I would be better off using the GTX rads instead of the SR1 rads. Is that correct?
I assume this is because the GTX has 20 fins per inch (FPI) and the SR1 has only 9 FPI. And, a 20 FPI rad dissapates more heat when it has more airflow than a rad with only 9 FPI.
I think I'm catching on...
thats exactly what he is saying
smile.gif
 
#17 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pongo View Post

Now that I read your reply a few more times. I think I understand what you are saying.
So, if I run my fans faster than some value, say 1200 rpm, then I would be better off using the GTX rads instead of the SR1 rads. Is that correct?
I assume this is because the GTX has 20 fins per inch (FPI) and the SR1 has only 9 FPI. And, a 20 FPI rad dissapates more heat when it has more airflow than a rad with only 9 FPI.
I think I'm catching on...
A high FPI radiator needs faster speed fans, the low FPI are designed to work with slower speed fans for those looking for quietness. The SR1 (9 FPI) series radiators have there fins sliced up (can't think of the proper name) to catch more volume of air passing throught the radiator core, the GTX series really separates itself from the pack at 2000rpm's and up. Who wants that kind of noise? Don't get me wrong the GTX rads are great and all (running GTX480 now) but linking two GTX radiators in one loop is to much restriction for my taste!
 
#18 ·
So, if I use the SR1 rads I could stay with the Yate Loons (both the 120mm and the 140mm).

If I switch to the GTX rads, I should consider the AP15s. But, they only make a 120mm AP15. My STH10 case should accept two 140.4 rads in the bottom chamber. I intend to use that capability. I know I could use a 120mm to 140mm adapter for the AP15s, but that seems less than optimal.

Do they actually make a 140mm version of the AP15?

This is great information, thanks.
 
#19 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pongo View Post

So, if I use the SR1 rads I could stay with the Yate Loons (both the 120mm and the 140mm).
If I switch to the GTX rads, I should consider the AP15s. But, they only make a 120mm AP15. My STH10 case should accept two 140.4 rads in the bottom chamber. I intend to use that capability. I know I could use a 120mm to 140mm adapter for the AP15s, but that seems less than optimal.
Do they actually make a 140mm version of the AP15?
This is great information, thanks.
you could stick with yates either way... they will just be a little louder then typhoons
smile.gif
... as for the 140mm rads, you can use slim 120->140mm fan adapters... they are realy cheap and martin actualy found that ap-15s are still great fans even on 140mm rads... i would look up martins 140mm fan testing results... they are prity interesting
smile.gif
... the only problem you may run into are the mounting options in the STH10 with the adapters... you may have to get a little creative... idk how deep the mounts are for the pedestals, but if memory recalls they prity much just have room for the fan and noting else on the other side... this would mean that you would only be able to have fans on the back side of the RADs... im sure you could figure something out if you wanted, but it will probably be tight
smile.gif
 
#21 ·
eskamobob1 has it right - AP15's are about high performance while maintaining low noise. The yates can perform as well, they will just be noisier for the same temps.

You understood me correctly, SR1's are designed for low speed fans, gtx's are designed for high speed fans. I believe the crossover point is 1200rpm, but I don't have data to back it up. Certainly at 1600rpm I would favor the gtx regardless of whether you go yates or GT's

Yes there are 120 to 140mm adapters (like systemlord's photo) for mounting fans like the GT's onto a 560.

Here's the test that eskamobob was talking about where the GT's beat out any 140mm fans for noise:

yld12sl12adaptervsall.png
 
#22 ·
I've switched to the GTX rads, from the SR1s. Thanks for the inputs.

I am still on the fence about switching from the Yate Loons to the Gentle Typhoon AP-15's.

I intend to wire the fans into logical groups and connect them to a fan controller. Currently I intend to use two of the Sunbeamtech Rheosmart 6 (RS-6) Fan Controllers. I am thinking I would connect all fans on a side of a single radiator to one circuit. So, I would have 4 sets (circuits) of 3 fans each for the 360 rads, plus 4 circuits of 4 fans each for the 560 rads, pluse one circuit of 3 intake fans in the motherboard section. I would connect the single exhaust fan directly to the motherboard. A total of 32 fans!

So, I would need 9 control circuits for the fans. The two RS-6 controllers at 30W per channel should handle this load with no problems. The reason I selected the RS-6 fan controller is because it has a PWM input. So I can connect these two controllers to two 4-pin (PWM) connections from the motherboard. The RS-6 will, in turn, adjust the output voltage of all six of its circuits based on the PWM input. They can be manually overridden by the front knobs.

But, I also want to monitor the water tempature and maybe the water flow. So, now I am looking into the Aquacomputer aquaero 5 XT USB Fan-Controller.

This is like a home remodel project! One thing leads to another and you "might as well" upgrade this or that...

It's a good thing I am doing this for fun.

Cheers,
 
#23 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pongo View Post

I've switched to the GTX rads, from the SR1s. Thanks for the inputs.
I am still on the fence about switching from the Yate Loons to the Gentle Typhoon AP-15's.
I intend to wire the fans into logical groups and connect them to a fan controller. Currently I intend to use two of the Sunbeamtech Rheosmart 6 (RS-6) Fan Controllers. I am thinking I would connect all fans on a side of a single radiator to one circuit. So, I would have 4 sets (circuits) of 3 fans each for the 360 rads, plus 4 circuits of 4 fans each for the 560 rads, pluse one circuit of 3 intake fans in the motherboard section. I would connect the single exhaust fan directly to the motherboard. A total of 32 fans!
So, I would need 9 control circuits for the fans. The two RS-6 controllers at 30W per channel should handle this load with no problems. The reason I selected the RS-6 fan controller is because it has a PWM input. So I can connect these two controllers to two 4-pin (PWM) connections from the motherboard. The RS-6 will, in turn, adjust the output voltage of all six of its circuits based on the PWM input. They can be manually overridden by the front knobs.
But, I also want to monitor the water tempature and maybe the water flow. So, now I am looking into the Aquacomputer aquaero 5 XT USB Fan-Controller.
This is like a home remodel project! One thing leads to another and you "might as well" upgrade this or that...
It's a good thing I am doing this for fun.
Cheers,
if that is what you are looking for you will need some power adjusts, and probably a multi switch as well... just let me say that aquaros get expensive fast... however, if you have the monney, i feel that an aquaro and all its accessories (i mean entierly maxed out) is probably the best investment an extreme WCer can ever make to ensure the safty and life of their rig... if the aquaro is a bit too expensive, look into the koolance TMS-205 and the TMS-205 EB (second is an expansion board)... its not very prity, but only like $150 all said and done, and it works prity well from what i can find (never used it myself)
 
#24 ·
+1 the aquaero is awesome but can get expensive if you have to buy power adjusts to support that many fan controller channels

If you want to keep it cheap you can go with the aquaero 5 LT - it has the features of the XT but without the LCD screen- i.e. software control through the usb only.

Bear in mind gentle typhoons do not support PWM, only the regular 3 pin fan header. However the controllers you mentioned are fine with 3 pin, so no worries there.
 
#26 ·
I received my CaseLabs STH10 yesterday and spent the evening taking photos of all the parts. I wanted close-ups of the panel parts as reference for future mods. This might take several posts to get them all.

We have to start with the photo of the box it came in:

20120222_0002.jpg

Next is the inside of the bottom panel:

20120222_0010-Edit.jpg

The bottom side of the bottom panel, with the "front" indicator stamped into the metal:

20120222_0013.jpg

The top side of the top panel, also with the "front" indicator:

20120222_0020.jpg

One of two panels that divide the three chambers:

20120222_0021-Edit.jpg

Close-up of the corner that connects the divider to the inside front panel:

20120222_0023-Edit.jpg

Close-up of the cut-out in the divider panel:

20120222_0025.jpg

The 560 radiator "shallow" mount:

20120222_0028-Edit.jpg

Close-up of where the radiator mount would connect to the case:

20120222_0029-Edit.jpg

Close-up of the special end of the 480 radiator mount, this is where my PSU will vent to the outside (I think):

20120222_0037.jpg

Back view of the motherboard I/O panel:

20120222_0040.jpg

Inside view of the motherboard I/O panel:

20120222_0042.jpg

Close-up of the PCI slot covers:

20120222_0045.jpg

The motherboard tray:

20120222_0046.jpg

The back side of the motherboard tray, this adds stiffness to the tray so you can use it as a tech station:

20120222_0049-Edit.jpg

The inside view of the solid top panel:

20120222_0052-Edit.jpg

The back panel:

20120222_0054-Edit.jpg

Close-up of the PSU cut-outs:

20120222_0056.jpg

The inside front panel:

20120222_0061-Edit.jpg

Close-up of the bottom part of the inside front panel:

20120222_0064.jpg

Close-up of the 3 1/2 inch bay on the inside front panel:

20120222_0065.jpg

Inside view of the inside front panel:

20120222_0068.jpg

Another view, with the "top" indicator stamped into the metal:

20120222_0069.jpg

One of the side vented panels:

20120222_0071.jpg

Inside view of the bottom side panel on the left and the top side panel on the right:

20120222_0074.jpg

The center vertical support panel:

20120222_0075-Edit.jpg

Close-up of where the motherboard tray slides in:

20120222_0078.jpg

Another view of that:

20120222_0079.jpg

Back side of the center support panel, this is where the drive bays will be mounted:

20120222_0081.jpg

The XXL clear window door for the motherboard side:

20120222_0082.jpg

Close-up of the door hinge:

20120222_0083.jpg

Inside view of the window door:

20120222_0085.jpg

Solid door for the back side:

20120222_0087.jpg

The hard drive bay:

20120222_0090.jpg

Ths SSD bay:

20120222_0091.jpg

The 3 1/2" bay, with the "front" indicator stamped into the metal:

20120222_0094.jpg

The front view of the Fan Mount Flex-Bay:

20120222_0095.jpg

The back view of the Fan Mount Flex-Bay:

20120222_0096.jpg

The front I/O panel:

20120222_0097.jpg

Finally, all these parts in a group shot before I start to assemble them:

20120223_0006-Edit-Edit.jpg

Wow. I sure hope this post works. It took a long time just to create this post :)

Cheers,
 
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