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MKG Cosmos II case mod - Page 11

post #101 of 794
I need to venture out more, sick build champ . It's orange and black and it's custom, it ticks all my boxes.
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post #102 of 794
O and, lay off wet and drying before you have your primer on. You need to create a surface that primer can adhere to, general rule of thumb is use 400 grit then prime it. After you've primed then you can start wet sanding and when your wet sanding use a hose a constant flow of water and use the 3 fingers close to your thumb and place wet and dry on the joint/after knuckle closest to your fingers. Tiny tiny circles with constant water.

Its hard to explain words. 400grit before primer, 400grit with primer, 800grit after top coat.
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post #103 of 794
After top coat, once paint has hardened you use 1200 - 1500 -2000 grit and use cutting compounds. To produce a ultimate finish. Even cutting compounds have grades I use a fine and then a ultra fine. With a variable speed 5 1/4 grinder, then to finish it off I use a fine foam pad with ultra ultra fine cut.
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post #104 of 794
Sil3nt.... expect a pm when I'm ready to paint my case
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post #105 of 794
II'll be painting in my thread shortly, I've got a few car panels to paint as well . 2pac painting is something I've covered extensively. It's hard because it fast, the paint is so fine and flows fast so forget pausing and hesitating. If you have good hand pieces you can control the flow accurately, Spraying is an art all of it's own, but for me it's the most rewarding process. Painting itself is 10% work and 90% prep, your paint is only as good as your prep.

With 2 pacs, yes it's expensive at about 100$ a liter AU, but 4 liters paints a car so 500ml should paint a case. Check out paint with pearls, http://www.paintwithpearl.com . Sorry don't mean to jump on your thread but I would rather point you in the right direction and teach you in a few sentences what has taking me years of experience to learn.

2pac requires a hardener and a thinner. Generally mixed 4:1 ratio with 10% thinners. There are additives that can make the paint flexible for use on plastics.
Edited by sil3nt_dr3ams - 2/26/12 at 10:38am
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post #106 of 794
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sil3nt_dr3ams View Post

O and, lay off wet and drying before you have your primer on. You need to create a surface that primer can adhere to, general rule of thumb is use 400 grit then prime it. After you've primed then you can start wet sanding and when your wet sanding use a hose a constant flow of water and use the 3 fingers close to your thumb and place wet and dry on the joint/after knuckle closest to your fingers. Tiny tiny circles with constant water.
Its hard to explain words. 400grit before primer, 400grit with primer, 800grit after top coat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sil3nt_dr3ams View Post

After top coat, once paint has hardened you use 1200 - 1500 -2000 grit and use cutting compounds. To produce a ultimate finish. Even cutting compounds have grades I use a fine and then a ultra fine. With a variable speed 5 1/4 grinder, then to finish it off I use a fine foam pad with ultra ultra fine cut.

Thanks for the advice sil3nt- +rep! I will use this technique on the back side door.

I'm in the process of fixing the front panel. Here it is sanded down ready for primer, again-

img0267v.jpg

primer applied-

img0269dn.jpg

I wet-sanded the primer and the rest of the door with 400 grit and cleaned and dried the piece, and sprayed it with a light coat of orange. thought I would make a post while waiting for the paint to dry. I'm going to start drilling out rivets soon thumb.gif

More to come!
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MKG-Cosmos II
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post #107 of 794
Another important thing is what called flash off, it's when the previous coat becomes tacky. If you keep your coats of paint to a flash off time each coat bonds because the coat before hand is sticky. If you miss the flash off period your trying to bond new paint to a completely flat surface.

This is when you start getting orange peel, and other problems.

2 pacs it's about a 5 minute window, or a smoke in my case biggrin.gif

Forget what everybody else say, you use 100% cotton rags with what called prep wash. It's hydrocarbons in a bottle, now this isn't to be mistaken for thinners . Very important that you clean all your paint surface to remove any surface containment. Wiping in only one direct so you don't cross containment your surface.

Tac clothes are great, but only for just about when your about to paint to remove any dust that has fallen on your work while you've been prepping other items.
Edited by sil3nt_dr3ams - 2/26/12 at 11:57am
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My System
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post #108 of 794
Thread Starter 
More good advice, thank you!

Well time to grab my drill and start destroying some rivets-

img0270il.jpg

action shot-

img0272i.jpg

5 1/4" and 3.5" bays removed-

img0275ze.jpg

Down to the frame-

img0281yg.jpg

laying down lines for radiator intake-

img0285rf.jpg

I used my jigsaw to cut it out after drilling a hole for blade access-

img0286u.jpg

These pieces are ready for primer- I forgot the 5.25" bay..

img0291oa.jpg

Thanks for looking!
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MKG-Cosmos II
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post #109 of 794
lol... how much smaller is that case without all the plastic? tongue.gif
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post #110 of 794
Thread Starter 
Still pretty big. The frame measures 22.25" tall, 9" wide, and 22 5/8" long. just slightly smaller than an 800D which is 24"x24"x9" counting the case feet.
MKG-Cosmos II
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i7 920 DO oc'd to 4.25Ghz EVGA 3-way Sli Classified 2x480 SLI 3x2g Corsair CMG6GX3M3A2000C7 
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80g Intel ssd, 2x300g raptors (0), 2x1 TB RE3 (0 Pioneer Blu-Ray burner, 22x dvd burner custom loop Windows 7 64bit 
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LG W3000H, dell ultra-sharp 24" Ducky 'OCN' with brown hx1000 Cosmos II 
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MKG-Cosmos II
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 920 DO oc'd to 4.25Ghz EVGA 3-way Sli Classified 2x480 SLI 3x2g Corsair CMG6GX3M3A2000C7 
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80g Intel ssd, 2x300g raptors (0), 2x1 TB RE3 (0 Pioneer Blu-Ray burner, 22x dvd burner custom loop Windows 7 64bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
LG W3000H, dell ultra-sharp 24" Ducky 'OCN' with brown hx1000 Cosmos II 
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mionix naos 5000 steelseries SX 
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