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Recommendations for a cylinder type res (good brands)?

post #1 of 20
Thread Starter 
Hello water cooling guys. biggrin.gif

I am doing a build with the NZXT Switch 810 case, have most of my parts either ordered or here already. Now I'm wanting to see about my loop. This is my 1st time doing a water cooled rig, have read stickies and all, but what I am looking for is what brand etc have you guys used thats good quality, lets face it horrible quality may cause leaks and water and electronics is a no no! So this is why I am asking to save me from replacing parts because I made a bad choice with a brand etc.

I have plenty of room in this case for what I want to do. So what is a good brand cylinder type res that you guys have used, I know some acrylic can dis-color over time and or crack from the materials getting brittle etc. Not sure if this happens in the water cooling parts for computers or not and really not wanting to find out the hard way. tongue.gif

Ive seen many types but don't know what is quality built or not.

Thanks thumb.gifthumb.gif
post #2 of 20
In terms of highest quality to lowest (company wise):

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11182/ex-res-229/EK-MultiOption_RES_X2_-_150_Advanced_-
_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_8_Total_Ports.html?tl=g30c97 - EK 'Multioption' Res series.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13126/ex-res-273/Phobya_Balancer_150_Reservoir_-_Black_Nickel_45151.html?tl=g30c97 - Phobya 'Balancers' (Equal with FrozenQ, if not slightly below it)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10278/ex-res-165/FrozenQ_PC_Mods_250mm_Liquid_Fusion_V_Series_2nd_Generation_Reservoir_-_UV_Cathode_-_UV_Red_Helix.html?tl=g30c97 - FrozenQ T-Virus reservoirs.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9575/ex-res-156/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_150_Inline_Reservoir_BP-WTZM150P-BK.html?tl=g30c97 - Bitspower 'inline' series
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13184/ex-res-283/Alphacool_Cape_Corp_Coolplex_Pro_25_LT_-_250mm.html?tl=g30c97 - Alphacool 'coolplex' series

Wall of text incoming!
post #3 of 20
Hmmm a FrozenCPU only list! rolleyes.gif I have used a bunch and to be honest have seen little difference between them when bought in the same price range. Danger Den are in Tiamat, Koolance are going into my Waterlogged Skeleton. Both are high quality, scratch-free units. I have used EK in the past - they are ok as well (although my preference having used DD and Koolance would be either of those over EK.) Water cooling parts generally follow the rule - you get what you pay for. Aqua computer are kick_azz, but pricey as well.
Edited by ScribbyDaGreat - 2/10/12 at 3:48pm
   
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post #4 of 20
I have one of the Bitspower Multi Z 400mL tanks. This one.

That said, What I like about it mainly is that the top (or bottom I guess) has three holes for fittings. One is for the standard flow of water. One is for a pressure release valve; because having a half gallon of water pop out of a tank seems like a horrible thing. wink.gif The last one I use as my fill / top off port. I strapped a cold cathode light next to it - for the bling - and away I go.

For the record, I have not owned this tank that long. (around a month and a half) I am also avoiding the use of UV LED/Cold cathode colors because I am concerned that it'll accelerate the break down of any plastic parts in the system. The other question might be how big of a tank do you want to use and how do you plan to orient it?

If you are worried about leaks, I guess you could use plumbers tape on the ends. The tank bursting I would think is much less of a concern.

Hex.
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post #5 of 20
Thread Starter 
Thanks everyone.

So far I like this one because of the Black Nickle finish, looks more nuclear to me:D:rolleyes:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13126/ex-res-273/Phobya_Balancer_150_Reservoir_-_Black_Nickel_45151.html?tl=g30c97

I want to place a order today for the res, rads, tubing and maybe some fittings.

Now, hose sizing, Ive read where the ID doesn't matter, which I can see why, the smallest opening which will be the block fittings sizes will be the max flow shes gonna get, so I think it just boils down to how big OD I would want to see, I don't want bulky but don't want skinny.

Oh and I guess I would need a pump to aye? lol So thats another thing to order, I see people ad pump tops or whatnot, is that a personal thing or does the pumps not come complete? Please bare with me, this liquid cooling is totally new to me and I have read alot about this but nothing got into detail on why people ad the pump tops etc.

Thanks all. I do have a build thread going on and stuff is going to be happen this coming week once I get the switch 810 in this Wednesday, so keep a eye out if ya want to! thumb.gif
post #6 of 20
Strictly, the ID doesn't matter, as the blocks (and rotary fittings) are the most restrictive parts.

Quite commonly, you will see tubing of 7/16" ID and 5/8" OD being used with barbs for 1/2" ID.
This slight mis-match of size produces a much tighter seal, and means there's less chance of a tube just popping off of a barb.

In terms of pumps.. yes you will need one tongue.gif
Tops however are not necessary. Some tops will increase flow, and some tops have integrated reservoirs (some cylindrical too thumb.gif), and they are sometimes picked for these qualities, and other times, it can be entirely aesthetic - Some pumps (655's and 355's) aren't particularly pretty, and tops can make them look a little bit better.

I recommend you read up before deciding to watercool, as it's vital you enter with some knowledge of what to do - there's a huge watercooling section, read the threads that relate to the problems you're thinking about and see what the conclusion is - then, when you feel ready to step it up, order your kit, and post a build log in here wink.gif
post #7 of 20
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by McMogg View Post

Strictly, the ID doesn't matter, as the blocks (and rotary fittings) are the most restrictive parts.
Quite commonly, you will see tubing of 7/16" ID and 5/8" OD being used with barbs for 1/2" ID.
This slight mis-match of size produces a much tighter seal, and means there's less chance of a tube just popping off of a barb.
In terms of pumps.. yes you will need one tongue.gif
Tops however are not necessary. Some tops will increase flow, and some tops have integrated reservoirs (some cylindrical too thumb.gif), and they are sometimes picked for these qualities, and other times, it can be entirely aesthetic - Some pumps (655's and 355's) aren't particularly pretty, and tops can make them look a little bit better.
I recommend you read up before deciding to watercool, as it's vital you enter with some knowledge of what to do - there's a huge watercooling section, read the threads that relate to the problems you're thinking about and see what the conclusion is - then, when you feel ready to step it up, order your kit, and post a build log in here wink.gif

I have been reading trust me! I understand the loop and all that, its just deciding on how I want it to look and good parts to use (quality). I like things to look proportioned and this is a full tower case and don't want no rinky dinky Lil hoses. I got my digital caliper out and all too see what the sizes look like in front of me. I do like the 5/8 OD, I think that will look good in that big case. So I am settled with that, and yes, the blocks will be where the restricting is in the loop. And those are 1/4" block fittings etc. So anything bigger than 1/4" will not really be needed, but again for looks I want it to look nice and sized proportioned.

I would like to price out all compression fitting as those look the nicest to me. I did read where people are using the 7/16 and using 1/2 inch without clamps because of the tight fit but I don't know if Id want to do that, cheaper heck yes but more risky IMO and I'm not sure if thats a risk Id like to take.

I will def read up more, but as mentioned I know the loop sequence etc, just trying to make things nice looking as well as being effective thumb.gif Also just wanted to know about quality of brands etc. Or at least I think I know the most major parts like water and electricity don't mix too well! Lil And the proper loop layout. Other than that its getting familiar with the equipment thats out there. I have a vision in my head of what I want it too look like, now its just getting all the parts to make that vision a reality!

Thanks again for your help, I'm gonna plug away more at this... thumb.gifthumb.gif
post #8 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by MP SLY MP View Post

Thanks again for your help, I'm gonna plug away more at this... thumb.gifthumb.gif

You're quite welcome, I too am planning a loop, and kind of daring myself to buy it - I have the money, but I don't know if I want to commit to the spending yet tongue.gif

Post a link in here when you start and I'll be sure to check it out! smile.gif
post #9 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by MP SLY MP View Post

Oh and I guess I would need a pump to aye?:

MCP35x plus 35x res. That is the is the single best pump on the market for 12volts. It's 75 bucks at jab-tech right now, res is like 26 bucks, use facebook code.
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post #10 of 20
I have a Phobya Balancer 250 and love it. It feels very solid, and comes with a piece to prevent it from turning into a whirlpool. I know on the EK this is an extra piece you have to order.
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