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2600k Weird Voltage?

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
See this screenshot:

530

I'm trying to OC my 2600k, but I'm not sure which monitoring software should I trust? The TouchBios, CPU-Z and Aida all report 1.224v, while CoreTemp (which seems to be recommended by a lot of people) out of nowhere gives this 1.3511v value!

If it helps, I've currently set the BIOS to 1.285v Manual, and neither app shows this voltage (which is fine, I'm only worried about the CoreTemp result). I also tested Auto and Offset mode, and CoreTemp almost always seems to show 1.34v at least.

Edit: Also even more strange, all apps (except CoreTemp, which at idle shows all sorts of values from 0.97v to 1.04v while I'm using the manual voltage BIOS mode biggrin.gif) report my correct voltage (1.284v) when my CPU is in idle. Once the CPU gets to 100%, they all say 1.224v. I think this is not a PSU or mobo problem, as when I was using Auto mode, 4.2Ghz worked with 1.3v fully stable.
Edited by SeW800 - 2/10/12 at 4:11pm
i7 2600k
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i7 2600k
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post #2 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeW800 View Post

See this screenshot:

I hid your picture in a spoiler. (Click to show)

530

 



I'm trying to OC my 2600k, but I'm not sure which monitoring software should I trust? The TouchBios, CPU-Z and Aida all report 1.224v, while CoreTemp (which seems to be recommended by a lot of people) out of nowhere gives this 1.3511v value!

If it helps, I've currently set the BIOS to 1.285v Manual, and neither app shows this voltage (which is fine, I'm only worried about the CoreTemp result). I also tested Auto and Offset mode, and CoreTemp almost always seems to show 1.34v at least.

Edit: Also even more strange, all apps (except CoreTemp, which at idle shows all sorts of values from 0.97v to 1.04v while I'm using the manual voltage BIOS mode biggrin.gif) report my correct voltage (1.284v) when my CPU is in idle. Once the CPU gets to 100%, they all say 1.224v. I think this is not a PSU or mobo problem, as when I was using Auto mode, 4.2Ghz worked with 1.3v fully stable.


CoreTemp is giving you the VID  and not the Vcore value.

 

VID is sort of like what the CPU is asking for at that clock, not what it's getting. Vdroop, and other factors change it. There's a much more scientific explanation, but what's important for you to know is that both your voltages and your VID are perfectly acceptable.

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post #3 of 6
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by shad0wfax View Post



CoreTemp is giving you the VID  and not the Vcore value.

VID is sort of like what the CPU is asking for at that clock, not what it's getting. Vdroop, and other factors change it. There's a much more scientific explanation, but what's important for you to know is that both your voltages and your VID are perfectly acceptable.

Thanks, that's quite a relief as I thought I was burning my CPU with 1.35v for a 4.0Ghz overclock biggrin.gif

Anyway, it seems for now I've settled it at 4.4Ghz with 1.296v stable. I guess that's a good voltage considering the clock? Anyway, I think it might even be able to go lower (1.27-1.28v), but I didn't test, as I'm afraid if the BIOS doesn't POST, since I wouldn't know what do to in that situation?
Edited by SeW800 - 2/11/12 at 6:08pm
i7 2600k
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i7 2600k
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post #4 of 6
At those clocks those voltages are pretty normal I get 4.5 at those volts
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Small wonder.
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post #5 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeW800 View Post

Thanks, that's quite a relief as I thought I was burning my CPU with 1.35v for a 4.0Ghz overclock biggrin.gif

Anyway, it seems for now I've settled it at 4.4Ghz with 1.296v stable. I guess that's a good voltage considering the clock? Anyway, I think it might even be able to go lower (1.27-1.28v), but I didn't test, as I'm afraid if the BIOS doesn't POST, since I wouldn't know what do to in that situation?
 


You're welcome. 4.4 GHz at a 1.296V stable without any real effort in tuning is just fine and you probably can get lower.

 

If it doesn't POST, you can enable PLL voltage override (but you shouldn't need to do this until you are up in the 4.9 to 5.0 GHz range.)

 

It won't hurt the motherboard or the CPU if it won't POST, you should be able to power off and reboot and continue again without any need to even crack the case. If all else fails, clear the CMOS (or pull the battery) and you can recover from just about anything.

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post #6 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeW800 View Post

I'm afraid if the BIOS doesn't POST, since I wouldn't know what do to in that situation?

Do you mean you're scared that your PC might not turn on again? (Sort of speaking...)

If everything fails you must use the clear cmos button (CLR CMOS).

On my board its just a button that I have to push and it will reset everything to stock and your good to go again wink.gif

Your board might also have that button or it might be a jumper inside your case on your mobo...

Anyway if you ever need to do it do it as follows:

Power off PC

Unplug power cord

Press power on on your PC a few times (this will drain the PSU)

CLR CMOS (hold/short a few seconds. If jumper, remove jumper again. If button, release button)

Put power cord back in

Start PC again

EVERYTHING IN BIOS IS RESETTED TO DEFAULT SETTINGS so you just can start OC-ing again wink.gif
   
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