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OCN FrozenQ Reservoir Owners Club - Page 109

post #1081 of 2112
I tried Ice. Very bad and just a waste of money. Went with distilled water after ignoring the recommendations. Never turned back. Its cheap and readily available. You can buy good dyes these days (mayhems) to get your color fix smile.gif
post #1082 of 2112
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post


only thing to worry about is galvanic corrosion ( great reads btw ) only real reason to use antifreeze
i would never recommend aluminum in a loop.... ever for this reason ( above ) and the fact that copper does so much better to reject heat.

only other reason to use colored coolants is personal choice, and that is the only good one imo.

okay this is great info!

SO basically I DO have an aluminum in my loop! my 12mm rad is aluminum! my dual 120mm is Copper and Brass Core... so I do NEED non-conductive fluid then right?

so then maybe this will work?? Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O
Edited by darwing - 5/23/13 at 6:42am
post #1083 of 2112
Thread Starter 
No. doh.gif heheh. Post what rad you have btw.

Non-Conductive is a fancy way of say there is a resistance to electricity. Electricity accels in high electrolyte filled water or anything else that helps act as a conduit. Hence why salt water has a very high resistance to electricity because there is so much salt and other minerals that resist it's flow. (I'm not saying use salt water either. hahaha) Also true non-conductive would be deionized water.

Anyways distilled water is actually has a low conductivity as well. This is why you will see it mentioned around the forums very often. In regards to the post Mega Man posted, Martin is a very famous water cooling enthusiast around the interwebs. Water cooling is a small community in the grand scheme of things so when someone steps up and makes a break-through, people tend to notice. As Martin said distilled water is the cheapest and best solution considering almost anyone can get there hands on distilled water.

In regards to Mayhem (Mick). I've asked him about his H20 before and it mostly pertains to people in Europe where the water quality may not be as high as it is here in the United States. So Mick had contracted out his own version of distilled water which is as good as it is here in the states. Now if anyone reading this is in EU, then by all means perhaps buy Mayhem's H20 for PCs. Moving on!

The Galvanic Scale or Galvanic Corrosion Scale is most commonly used in plumbing and roofing. This stems from the notion that contracts who deal with residential, commercial, and industrial sites must know how to use there materials properly or corrosion will ensue. Regarding the galvanic scale in your case has to do with the use of aluminum and copper in your loop. Here is the reason on a very basic scale.
Galvanic Scale (Click to show)

As you can see aluminum has a 2 and copper a 10. polar opposites of each other if we will. This tells us that there is a very high chance the two materials will cause the other to corrode. In this case sense copper is higher on the scale and thus less protective, the aluminum will cause the copper to corrode. This is why the Statue of Liberty looks green.
Statue of Liberty 1886 (Click to show)

Now let's head back to deionized water. Deionized water is where water literally had the ions taken out of it. This is harmful to copper in the sense it can pit the copper and damage it. This is why no one used deionized water either.

Onto your loop. You said you had aluminum, then copper/brass plating and probably some traces nickel depending on the type of fitting you may have. Another reason is get rid of the aluminum is that brass is susceptible to corrosion too. Though the problem is we can't use Brasso on our loops to make it better. haha The best bet for you to do it to take normal distilled water from the grocery store and use it. Before that I'd flush your loop with warm tap water and see if any gunk comes out. Then if you are daring take apart your blocks to check the channels for any corrosion or crap build up. Then flush the loop with distilled water to remove trace elements of minerals from the tap water, chlorine, zinc, etc. Then run 100% pure distilled and call it a day. Some PT Nuke could work or a silver coil if you don't have any nickel. If you want dye make sure you use only a little and find a dye that has a huge concentration from a small drop.

I.E. 1 drop will completely color 1 LTR of water. The reason there is that dye come from a solid first then then is transformed in a liquid using centrifuge and other such methods. But all dye is either a powder or more likely a block of coloring first. If you have any other questions then feel free to post them. thumb.gif
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post #1084 of 2112
Thread Starter 
Hey guys and gals. I will be the new thread curator for the FrozenQ Club here at OCN. Thanks to DerickWM who passed the thread this way! You go girl 'n what not! drunken.gif

Anyways. If you are not on the roster for which reservoir(s) you own, make a post and I will attempt to update the spread sheet when I can. Now I won't be able to do it this weekend as I will be out of town at the Indi 500 with my old man, but when I get back I'll read every post and update it accordingly. So if you want in the cool guy club let me know. thumb.gif
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post #1085 of 2112
Quote:
Originally Posted by darwing View Post

okay this is great info!

SO basically I DO have an aluminum in my loop! my 12mm rad is aluminum! my dual 120mm is Copper and Brass Core... so I do NEED non-conductive fluid then right?

so then maybe this will work?? Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O

Copper, brass, nickel, and stainless steel are ok to mix.

Aluminum, get it out of your loop wink.gif
post #1086 of 2112
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

Copper, brass, nickel, and stainless steel are ok to mix.

Aluminum, get it out of your loop wink.gif

Unless you have silver and nickel. I've never done it but I hear horror stories. haha
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post #1087 of 2112
Yeah, I've heard and seen some horror stories with aluminum in the mix. Most aluminum rads are intended for loops that already have aluminum. For example, if you a mod an H40, its aluminum so another aluminum rad can be added. Its just one of those metals that ppl say don't mix. Silver, well I do believe its a great biocide but after having so much trouble with the old ek nickle blocks and many manufacturers condemning it (ie ek and koolance) I've stopped using it. I been silver free for almost a year and I've had no issues so far smile.gif
post #1088 of 2112
Thread Starter 
Nice PT Nuke or nothing at all?
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post #1089 of 2112
Quote:
Originally Posted by NinjaSushi2 View Post

Nice PT Nuke or nothing at all?

Just mayhems dye smile.gif
post #1090 of 2112
Quote:
Originally Posted by darwing View Post

okay this is great info!

SO basically I DO have an aluminum in my loop! my 12mm rad is aluminum! my dual 120mm is Copper and Brass Core... so I do NEED non-conductive fluid then right?

so then maybe this will work?? Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O

no get rid of it... aluminum is bad... read the article on galvanic corrosion
if you insist on using it USE CAR COOLANT ( green truff or orange pink whatever ) car coolant is designed to help with that ( think aluminum blocks + copper tubes in rads ) { talking about engines here }

ALL COOLANT ONCE IN YOUR LOOP BECOMES CONDUCTIVE
( READ THAT ARTICLE )
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

Yeah, I've heard and seen some horror stories with aluminum in the mix. Most aluminum rads are intended for loops that already have aluminum. For example, if you a mod an H40, its aluminum so another aluminum rad can be added. Its just one of those metals that ppl say don't mix. Silver, well I do believe its a great biocide but after having so much trouble with the old ek nickle blocks and many manufacturers condemning it (ie ek and koolance) I've stopped using it. I been silver free for almost a year and I've had no issues so far smile.gif
nickle is another issue, done well ( this is the problem it is very very expensive to do well ) helps alot. koolance .... well.... yea... that is the reason i dont buy them, and instead i buy swiftech ... swiftech uses real chrome........and does it well.

silver .... well... is just a personal preference.
me i would rather collect it and sell it then put it in my loop to slowly degrade.... copper sulfate works just fine....
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F3-2400C10D-16GTX OCZ agaility 3 120  OCZ Agility 3 120gb  Seagate 7200rpm 1tb 
Optical DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
Pioneer BDR-208DBK Rosewill RCR-IM5001 USB2.0 75 in 1 internal Car... Swiftech MCP-35X White Top Swiftech Quiet Power 240  
CoolingOSOSMonitor
Swiftech Apogee HD Windows 7 Windows 8 LG E2242 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
LG E2242 RAZER Black Lycosa Mirror Special Edition Seasonic x660 Cooler Master Storm Stryker 
Mouse
Razer Lachesis 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX 6100 Sabertooth 990fx R2.0 XFX 7770 Core Edition Samsung 1600 2x4 
RAMHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Samsung 1600 2x4 Unknown as of now  Piorneer BDR-208DBK Swiftech H220  
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 8  Samsung 60" 120hz 3d LED TV Unknown Seasonic x750 
CaseMouseAudio
Cooler Master Storm Stryker Unknown Pioneer 5.1 
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